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PROBLEM: Reduced Engine Power and Service Active Handling
All, I was at the car wash rinsing off the engine bay. Something I do on a monthly basis. When I started up, about 3 seconds later the REDUCED ENGINE POWER came on along with SERVICE ACTIVE HANDLING.
#1. Are these two code normally hand in hand?
#2. If so, will a bad throttle body, position sensor, or connector wire cause the Service Active Handling, or is it more reverse that "Service Active Handling" will induce the Reduced Engine Power code to protect the car?
No matter how much I cleared the codes, the codes always came back. I removed the throttle body (right side) connecter, blew it out, let it air dry, checked for kinked wires etc. Removed teh air bridge and checked the throttle body blade. It is unobstructed.
Joe (JOPHIS37) came over and double checked all areas. Disconnected the battery, sat for 5 - 7 minutes, reset the codes, started up and did an idle re-learn. It seemed to work initially and then shut off after 1 minute or so going back into Reduced Engine Power. We reset the codes, started up again and let it idle re-learn. Car ran for 15 minutes at idle, no issues. No codes.
Got on the road to head home. Took it easy. Low RPMS, low MPH. No issues, but didn't want to push it. 500 feet from home, I punched it to see what would happen.
Car fluttered as if it were starving for fuel, started to backfire (pop) more than I ever heard it do and went back into Reduced Engine Power.
Codes have been consistent:
PCM:
P1120 TP Sensor 1 Circuit
P1220 TP Sensor 2 Circuit
P1221 TP Sensors 1, 2 Performance
P1516 Command vs Actual Throttle Position Performance (TAC Module)
TCS:
C1278 TCS Temporarily Inhibited By PCM
HVAC:
B0338 Inside Air Temp Sensor Open
B0361 Left Actuator Feedback Short to GND
B0441 Left Actuator Out of Range
B0446 Right Actuator Out of Range
P1518 PCM to TAC Module Serial Data Circuit
One thing that has me puzzled is, the front end has been rattling a bit more lately. While getting my fuel filter changed, I noticed that when I push up and down on my front sway bar, the adjustable end links seem to be clicking. They are tight, but maybe worn out?
Is there anything in the front end to check for traction control connectors?
When I drive over bumps, something is rattling like it is loose. At first, I thought it was my wheels. I am sure it is suspension related, but are these two problems connected somehow?
Could a faulty fuel filter have any suspicion in this scenario? It worked perfectly fine for 400 miles up to Phoenix and back. Only after I washed teh car did it start this madness.
Ideas, suggestions?
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The rebirth of an SLP 402, MAHLE Pistons, Yella Terra 1.7, COMP 921s, G6X3, AFR 225s, FAST 92mm Intake, FAST 90mm TB, VaraRam VR2B, LG Pro Longtubes, B & B Bullets, RPS Stage 3, TICK Adjustable, Shift Detent, 505 RWTQ, 491 RWHP
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