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Old 04-29-2009, 07:20 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Re: DIY - Lowering your C5

How do you cut the bushing? Do you have to take it all the way off the car? Is it easier to just buy a kit from Zip?
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Old 05-26-2009, 10:56 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Re: DIY - Lowering your C5

ah, you know I just went and ordered up one of those eibach pro-kit lowering kits... didn't even think to swing by here and check for stuff like this first.
Well, I'll see if it works out in my favor, or if it was a waste of $60 and I'm just an uninformed consumer...

But I've got to ask... I saw on the first page someone said you might need a "bump-steer" kit if you go lower than stock hardware will allow. What's the deal with this and what does it entail??? any links? Help me out! thanks.
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Old 05-27-2009, 06:17 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Re: DIY - Lowering your C5

OK, ... Vols Fan ... I didn't cut my bushings; from what I've read, some have cut them on the car using a hacksaw and some have removed them.

Monster ... did you get springs or adjustment bolts and perhaps pads for the front?
Google bump steer corvette and you'll get some information.
Essentially, the kit consists of adjustable tie rod ends.
Quote from one vendor:
"Bump steer occurs when intentional changes to steering geometry, such as caster, camber, or static ride height, result in undesired, dynamic changes to toe settings. This happens when the initial angle of the tie rod, due to altered geometry, is such that when the suspension is articulated through a range of motion, the tie rod is not able to travel in the same arc as the steering arm on the spindle. At the point the steering arm and tie rod arcs become different, unwanted steering input results. In driving, this normally shows up when the suspension is already "loaded" (as in hard cornering, and particularly when simultaneously braking) and a change in road surface (pot hole, bump, other) is encountered. In such cases, the car darts sharply and unexpectedly. In an extreme case, this can cause a total loss of control. At the minimum, it is unsettling, unsafe, and undesirable."
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Old 05-27-2009, 10:15 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Re: DIY - Lowering your C5

Quote:
Originally Posted by DennyM View Post
OK, ... Vols Fan ... I didn't cut my bushings; from what I've read, some have cut them on the car using a hacksaw and some have removed them.

Monster ... did you get springs or adjustment bolts and perhaps pads for the front?
Google bump steer corvette and you'll get some information.
Essentially, the kit consists of adjustable tie rod ends.
Quote from one vendor:
"Bump steer occurs when intentional changes to steering geometry, such as caster, camber, or static ride height, result in undesired, dynamic changes to toe settings. This happens when the initial angle of the tie rod, due to altered geometry, is such that when the suspension is articulated through a range of motion, the tie rod is not able to travel in the same arc as the steering arm on the spindle. At the point the steering arm and tie rod arcs become different, unwanted steering input results. In driving, this normally shows up when the suspension is already "loaded" (as in hard cornering, and particularly when simultaneously braking) and a change in road surface (pot hole, bump, other) is encountered. In such cases, the car darts sharply and unexpectedly. In an extreme case, this can cause a total loss of control. At the minimum, it is unsettling, unsafe, and undesirable."

Hey, thanks for the info.

The kit I ordered includes no springs, only hardware like bolts/nuts, and some urethane pads or something of the sort, it's the Eibach "pro-kit", and I've had great experience with Eibach products in the past so I decided to trust it without much research.
As far as my knowledge goes here, I'm not aware of any "spring-kits" for the C5 vette, other than full coil-over set-ups, which I would LOVE to have for the adjustability and versatility, but for all the stage 1 goodies I just dropped my hard earned money on I feel I got more for that money. I don't need new dampeners at the moment either.


And excuse my ignorance again, but seriously, the ZO6 does not come with OE adjustable tie rod ends??? Even my '02 Sierra has those, even if they are spindly.... How are you supposed to adjust toe angles on a stocker?
Also seems completely ridiculous to me to think that the suspension geometry throughout it's travel range would alter the toe (what is it called, ackerman or something?) so significantly as to say we need a kit to solve this from the aftermarket. So a factory stock ZO6 driven hard, or on a track day is not supposed to have suspension movement up front? Or if god forbid, it does happen to cycle through compression you'll just lose complete control because your tires are aiming at eachother. ???!!! what the hell.
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Old 05-27-2009, 11:53 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Re: DIY - Lowering your C5

Monster ...
I only asked about the springs, 'cause Eibach shows them in their "pro kit" but then says the kit "may only consist of bolts & pads" ... at the price you paid, I assumed the latter, but figured I'd ask.
Coilovers is much more $
On the bump steer ... if you lower beyond the factory front bolt adjustment range, you are changing the level of the A-arm relative to the ground, and allowing it to "kick out" more, thus necessitating unscrewing the tie rod ends (yes, the stockers are adjustable) to maintain proper toe.
And you will have limited suspension travel ... and you will need new (shorter) dampers to keep the suspension off the bump stops.
There's a comprehensive step through discussion on lowering here: See DJWorm at post # 8
Need suspension/ride height help (DJworm??)
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Old 05-27-2009, 01:05 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Re: DIY - Lowering your C5

Quote:
Originally Posted by DennyM View Post
Monster ...
I only asked about the springs, 'cause Eibach shows them in their "pro kit" but then says the kit "may only consist of bolts & pads" ... at the price you paid, I assumed the latter, but figured I'd ask.
Coilovers is much more $
On the bump steer ... if you lower beyond the factory front bolt adjustment range, you are changing the level of the A-arm relative to the ground, and allowing it to "kick out" more, thus necessitating unscrewing the tie rod ends (yes, the stockers are adjustable) to maintain proper toe.
And you will have limited suspension travel ... and you will need new (shorter) dampers to keep the suspension off the bump stops.
There's a comprehensive step through discussion on lowering here: See DJWorm at post # 8
Need suspension/ride height help (DJworm??)

Thanks for the link, that is a great read! I actually just brought it back to life, like it or not, haha! :pp:
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