Originally posted by GaryZ06 So let me get this straight.....I can use either a 1 1/2 or a 2 inch PVC rubber plug.....which is better? Thanks
...and the 1 1/2 fits in "upside down" as well. Just tuck the extra into the boot as far as you can rather than having it face upwards as in the pics here. The installation looks factory.
Matt
__________________ SOLD- 2002 Z06 - Vararam, Tint, Hurst shifter, B&B Bullets, Vette Essentials interior, iForged Evo's
2006 superior blue Hummer H3
2004 indi blue/white Mini Cooper S - Aero Kit, Rogue CAI, Tint.
Originally posted by BIG LAW MAN My Hurst makes no noise at all with the MGW knob. All I can hear is road noise and you can hardly hear it over the Stingers anyway.
Ditto that BIG LAW MAN !!
James
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Vortex Rammer Intake,High Flow Air Duct and Power Coupler,LS1 Edit,TB Bypass, 160° Tstat, Painted Fuel Rail Covers,Lowered (cut bushings),Borla 2 Tip Stingers,Hurst Shifter, MGW Shift Knob,Shorty Ant., lots of Zaino
Originally posted by PaulS In the pictures the 1.5" is installed in the opposite position as the 2". The 2" goes down and "caps" over the existing inverted rubber boot and fits very snug. With The 1.5", it goes down the shifter shaft upside down and fits inside the inverted rubber boot. I can feel around my leather boot and feel the 2" cap under there. The 1.5" should be harder to detect or feel and I think everyone would agree is the optimal choice. Both will provide the same result....
Good point. I was the one that posted about the 2" cap. As I stated in my post I got the idea from Jub Jub so all credit to him. When I went to buy the 1.5" as recommended I brought the stock boot with me but mis-understood the install. I thought the cap was supposed to go on the outside. I didn't realize it was supposed to go inside inverted.
After using the 2" boot for a few weeks I must confess that I was wondering how to make the 1 1/2" boot work. The 2" boot is noticeable once the center console is replaced. After looking at Jub Jub's pics above more closely for a second time I realize what I missed.
I humbly bow to Jub Jub for a superior solution and retract my recommendation for the 2" cap. In fact I'm going to replace my current cap with a 1 1/2" cap this weekend. I believe this choice will give me the same excellent noise reduction while reducing the amount of rubber under the console.
Jub Jub for the excellent idea and sorry for not understanding it correctly the first time.
Whiplash
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Originally posted by 03torchred excellent idea....my hurst has been very noisy and is almost unbearable with the momo knob. I've tried wheel weights, dynamat, foam, cv boot and a few other things that I'm too embarrased to actually share
My MGW pistol grip ( plus ebrake handle and ac knobs) should be arriving soon so I will give this fix a try.
thanks again for the great idea...I'll let ya know if it works for me.
Harry
I have the hurst with the Momo too, and the sound is driving me NUTS
I had the hurst shifter installed at the Fest and got the MGW shift knob. The MTI folks there said that that shift knob was really quiet.
I took a few folks for rides who where interested in the hurst but had heard it was noisy. My set up is quiet...I could slightly detect a light buzz noise, but you would have to have hearing like a dog and really be listening to hear anything. End result GotZ06 bought the same setup.
I wouldn't go back to stock if I was paid double the costs to do it.
Originally posted by silvertp I had the hurst shifter installed at the Fest and got the MGW shift knob. The MTI folks there said that that shift knob was really quiet.
I took a few folks for rides who where interested in the hurst but had heard it was noisy. My set up is quiet...I could slightly detect a light buzz noise, but you would have to have hearing like a dog and really be listening to hear anything. End result GotZ06 bought the same setup.
I wouldn't go back to stock if I was paid double the costs to do it.
I must have hearing like a dog, then. And, I have the MGW gripper, too. I think my rattle might have something to do with the fact that I installed the knob on the stock shifter and then bought the hurst. That very action probably created a very small gap between the threads of the knob and shifter, creating the knob buzz. If I put a "virgin" knob on a new hurst shaft, I bet it wouldn't rattle. I wonder if others with the buzz put the knob directly on the Hurst or if they used it on the stock shifter first. Just a thought.
I used a 2" cap. Works great for me. An advantage of a 2" cap is it can be removed easier than a 1.5" should you want to adjust the screws on the top of the shifter.
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'03 MY Z06; A&A Corvette P1-SC supercharger set up and some other goodies
I performed the jub jub job (lol), and still getting a buzz at top of shifter. Actually used two rubber caps, a 1-1/2" on the inside and a 2" on the outside. Also removed stop bolts. Any ideas?
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2002 Electron Blue / Borla 4 Tip / K & N Cone Filter / Lowered / Hurst / Tinted
Charlie, just taking a guess but it might be the knob. Maybe it's a little loose on the shaft? Other than that, I think the shifter does quiet down some on it's own.
I definitely have more noise in 1st through 4th, especially at WOT, with the Hurst.
But it is as quite as a church mouse in 5th and 6th.
I also feel that the Hurst with it's shorter throw and shorter shift tower is tough on the syncros when the trans is cold. So I shift it very gentley until the trans oil warms up.
I have to agree with silvertp, the Hurst is a vast improvement over the stock shifter.
Originally posted by Andy Cravens What kind of noise is it that comes from the aftermarket shifters? Rattling or the transmission whining or what? I was just wondering.
Andy,
I think it might be a combination of both. For me the rattling was the most noticable and I really don't notice much of the increased transmission whining noise. Both my Ripper and my Hurst had the same kind of rattle. I usually only heard it at the top of the gears under hard acceleration. Depending on how I held the shifter, it would sound different.
If your shifter makes a buzzing/rattling sound from the knob here is a easy fix....just wrap the shifter threads with a little electric tape and all is well.
__________________ 2006 Victory Red Z06
490 rwhp 465 rwtq
howdy,
i have a ripper in my 2003 and have re-installed it twice thinking that the first time i screwed up as there was a buzz coming from the shifter under hard acceleration....second time i torqued all to spec and put loctite on...well nothing changed. i had a momo handle...since i changed to MGw and its ok but not completely gone. there has been a terrific write up in a recent corvette mag about shifters. each one is a compromize over stock. by switching you invite more noise as the isolation is reduced to make it more solid feeling and also more effort as the lever arm is reduced. so i think it matters not whether its b&m or hurst, i think they all have some compromise and we will have to live with it. good luck
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Jub Jub for the excellent idea and 
sorry for not understanding it correctly the first time.
I've tried wheel weights, dynamat, foam, cv boot and a few other things that I'm too embarrased to actually share 
And, I have the MGW gripper, too. I think my rattle might have something to do with the fact that I installed the knob on the stock shifter and then bought the hurst. That very action probably created a very small gap between the threads of the knob and shifter, creating the knob buzz. If I put a "virgin" knob on a new hurst shaft, I bet it wouldn't rattle. I wonder if others with the buzz put the knob directly on the Hurst or if they used it on the stock shifter first. Just a thought.
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