I used the Kent Moore splitters the book calls for. The gotcha with the book is that if you look in the wheel stud section, they say one ball joint tool. When you look under another section, it calls for a different splitter.
I bought both. I really only needed the one splitter for the ball joints, the one listed under the wheel stud is used to push the studs out.
I'm not sure about the sear tools, but I went with the kent moores, and found that there is no problem pushing the ball joints out, no marks left on the arms, or the upright. The kent moores are spendy though.
If you're replacing stock for stock, the front doesn't need to come apart, but if you do like some of us, and put in the ARP studs (longer), you have to pull the front hub as well.
I bought my 34mm socket from snap on, and had to get it in an impact format, as they don't make a standard socket in that size.
If you're replacing stock for stock, the front doesn't need to come apart, but if you do like some of us, and put in the ARP studs (longer), you have to pull the front hub as well.
In case you're not aware of it, I was able to install .5" longer studs on the front without having to pull the front hub. It took a little bit of hand-gymnastics, but after the second stud, the remaining eight were relatively easy to do.
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Road America 2:31.61 - Racepak G2X
5th time at RA; no other track experience
351 rwhp, x-pipe, engine oil cooler
Tunnel Plate, 04 Shocks, Kodiaks/trashcan-tires
I also cannot find the flat spot to drill the hole on the backing plate. Can anyone explain in a bit more detail where the location is?
BTW, there already is a square hole in the backing plate that the factory did not even bother covering up. We can at least put some tape over the hole we create to keep debree out.
Guys this was a PITA... I had to remove the parking brake, and getting that back on and the reatainer spring back in w/ the hub/bearing attached was evil tedious almost give up work.
I finally got the spring in after 1.5 hrs of screwing with it. OEM manuals specifically says "remove hub/bearing assembly" as the first step to swapping the parking brake!
I think Lou's tip was for a race car w/o any parking brake, because in that case it'd work very easily.
I'm looking for where to drill that 5/8 hole without colliding with any important E-brake parts, like that long spring I can see between the edge of the hub and the circle of the e-brake shoe.
Is there room there to tip the bolt sideways enough to free it thru the new hole?
Read my above post.... it doesn't work. That quick shortcut doesn't work if you have the parking brake in place. I had to take it off. Then getting the retainer spring back in w/ the hub in place is damn near impossible. You're supposed to remove the hub to work on the parking brake.
Thanks, Cobra. after much flashlighting, punching with a long punch to see the ex-dents on the back of the backing plate, I agree. The wheel bolt has to have just a few degrees of tilt to miss straight section of the retainer spring. I'll probably take one whack at it before going to the dealer. Too much balljoint separating for me old arthritic hands just for an HPDE toy.
the original poster said he "gouged 2x" wheel studs...does that mean he messed up a few threads?
I had a few that were "boogered up" pretty badly - threads missing and trashed.
I went to the local parts store, bought a 12x1.5 die and ran it down to the base of all my wheels studs - all lugnuts go on smoothly now and torque down just fine.
The previous owner(s) had used wheel spacers and the lugnuts weren't grabbing enough threads. I removed the spacers and cleaned up the studs...now all is good. I also bought a set of lug nuts with shoulders that extend through the wheel to grab more threads.
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