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Old 04-20-2006, 02:06 PM   #1 (permalink)
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DE coming up, how is my to do list?

Willow springs, beginning of next month. You can register here, this roster is in alphabetical order and Im on it.

http://www.speedventures.com/5-13-2006_event.asp

If anyone in the bay area would like to go, a few of us Z owners are gonna caravan down there and stay for the weekend, youre welcome to come along. Bjaber if youre reading this, bring that C6Z out!

So after a little research I plan on doing the following, I cant really afford DRM ducts/spindles right now.

carbotech pads front (xp10)
Napa replacement rotors front
Dot 4 fluid

I ran across a thread that was recent stating that one of the few vendors that carry the carbotechs PFYC was back ordered, how do I get ahold of carbotech directly? And can I walk into any napa and ask for the rotors? What is a good DOT 4 fluid to go with?
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Old 04-20-2006, 05:37 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Can't make it. My daughter's 4th B-day party that weekend.
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Old 04-20-2006, 05:48 PM   #3 (permalink)
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www.pfyc.com has them in stock now

just got 2 sets today UPS

make sure you mention you heard of Brian's site through Z06vette.com-he's a supporting vendor and HPDE guy himself
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Old 04-20-2006, 06:33 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Try Motul 600; it's a great brake fluid and should help reduce the chance of you 'boiling' your brakes.
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Old 04-20-2006, 07:03 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Key is a good flush of the brake fluid. I was told I had a flush with fresh OEM fluid when I purchased the car and I boiled them in 10 minutes!!! I've had great luck with, dare I say it, "Ford high temperature fluid". There was an ealier post that listed it as being right up there with the expensive fluids in the boiling point and it is relatively cheap. I also replaced the brake lines with stainless steel hoses. Bottom line... Watch those brakes!!!
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Old 04-20-2006, 07:54 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bjaber
Can't make it. My daughter's 4th B-day party that weekend.
Ok next time then, it would be great to have you bring that thing out to a DE.

Quote:
www.pfyc.com has them in stock now

just got 2 sets today UPS

make sure you mention you heard of Brian's site through Z06vette.com-he's a supporting vendor and HPDE guy himself
Great, Ill give brian a buzz and Ill mention the site, thanks Leslie.

Quote:
Try Motul 600; it's a great brake fluid and should help reduce the chance of you 'boiling' your brakes.
Bish
Welcome to zo6vette.com, Im honored to have your first post! How much $ is the motul 600, Ive heard $70 a L? Im on a budget here, can I get a decent DOT 4 fluid at a price down to earth?

Quote:
Key is a good flush of the brake fluid. I was told I had a flush with fresh OEM fluid when I purchased the car and I boiled them in 10 minutes!!! I've had great luck with, dare I say it, "Ford high temperature fluid". There was an ealier post that listed it as being right up there with the expensive fluids in the boiling point and it is relatively cheap. I also replaced the brake lines with stainless steel hoses. Bottom line... Watch those brakes!!!
Where can I get this Ford fluid? Thats great, now Im gonna have ford fluid to match my ford injectors. Whats next? I found this fluid for $12 on pfyc.com, its DOT 4, is this ok?

http://www.pfyc.com/store/merchant.m...y_Code=VTTRACK

Last edited by eviLS6 : 04-20-2006 at 07:59 PM.
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Old 04-20-2006, 08:26 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Hey Vince,
FYI...I am using the zrated carbon metallic pads with Performance Friction DOT3 Brake Fluid (550 degree boiling point). They work really good for me.
I just ordered the DRM Brake Ducting and the T-1 Sway bars. Oh, and of course the Nitto NTO1's.
Just remember to leave your traction control off and that will help with your brake temp.
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Old 04-20-2006, 11:49 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedway ZO6
Hey Vince,
FYI...I am using the zrated carbon metallic pads with Performance Friction DOT3 Brake Fluid (550 degree boiling point). They work really good for me.
I just ordered the DRM Brake Ducting and the T-1 Sway bars. Oh, and of course the Nitto NTO1's.
Just remember to leave your traction control off and that will help with your brake temp.
Yeah I cant wait to see your lap times with the T1 and NT01's set up, I think it would be interesting to swap cars for a bit.
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Old 04-21-2006, 12:31 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I didn't see it on your list, so I'd recommend synthetic trans fluid. I ran Thunderhill with and without it....much nicer with. Have a great time and let us know how those Nitto's are.
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Old 04-21-2006, 06:41 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Alabama
I didn't see it on your list, so I'd recommend synthetic trans fluid. I ran Thunderhill with and without it....much nicer with. Have a great time and let us know how those Nitto's are.
I ALMOST signed up for thunderhill, but I couldnt get a definite answer as to the weather for that weekend, and its been raining like mad here in nor cal so I decided against it.

Ill look into the syn fluid, thanks for the advice.
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Old 04-21-2006, 07:05 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Check out the Basic Suspension Set Up and Troubleshooting Algorythm sticky in the racing forum. It links to: http://www.seinesystems.com/BrakeFluids.htm which list the properties of various fluids. I was really surprised by the data. Ford’s heavy duty fluid it available at all of their parts departments. It only cost about $5 to $6 for 12 oz. Sorry about this one but Ford makes Chevy look really stupid on this one. I really don’t think Chevy’s fluid should be used in Colbats let alone a Vette! SpeedwayZ06 has a great point about the traction control. I forgot to turn this off myself once and the brakes overheated EXTREMELY quickly.
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Old 04-22-2006, 11:32 AM   #12 (permalink)
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The Motul 600 RBF is a good brake fluid and I used it for several seasons, but I've shifted to Wilwood EXP 600 Plus which is essentiall the same but sold by an American company vice a French one. FYI, neither of these fluids meet owner's manual specs...

I'd add a complete fluid change to your list, engine, tranny and diff unless you've done them recently, particularly for the tranny since the stock fluid is not synthetic. The tranny takes a fluid meeting Dexron III standards which is an ATF. The engine oil will get beat up on the track and in Socal expect oil temps nearing 300F, which is primarily why I don't run the oil very long and suggest you change yours. Also, given the high oil temps, this is why I run an oil with a higher viscosity than the stock 5w30, but again, this doesn't meet owner's manual requirements (not a big deal to me at this point). I've been using a 10w40 my last two races.

Have fun out there!!!
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Old 04-22-2006, 02:01 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Subdriver
The Motul 600 RBF is a good brake fluid and I used it for several seasons, but I've shifted to Wilwood EXP 600 Plus which is essentiall the same but sold by an American company vice a French one. FYI, neither of these fluids meet owner's manual specs...

I'd add a complete fluid change to your list, engine, tranny and diff unless you've done them recently, particularly for the tranny since the stock fluid is not synthetic. The tranny takes a fluid meeting Dexron III standards which is an ATF. The engine oil will get beat up on the track and in Socal expect oil temps nearing 300F, which is primarily why I don't run the oil very long and suggest you change yours. Also, given the high oil temps, this is why I run an oil with a higher viscosity than the stock 5w30, but again, this doesn't meet owner's manual requirements (not a big deal to me at this point). I've been using a 10w40 my last two races.

Have fun out there!!!
Great info sub, what trany and diff fluid do you recommend? Just changed the oil 2k miles ago while swapping my cam. I use mobil 1 10w30.
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Old 04-23-2006, 10:40 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by eviLS6
Great info sub, what trany and diff fluid do you recommend? Just changed the oil 2k miles ago while swapping my cam. I use mobil 1 10w30.
I use these on the track (and they meet GM specs for the Z06):
AMSOIL ATF
AMSOIL Severe Gear Extreme Pressure Synthetic 75w90 (comes with friction modifier in it and I don't need any extra to prevent diff chatter)

This comes in handy for DIY: AMSOIL Hand Pump

Engine oil is a hard call for DEs and everyone will have to make a tough personal decision. The owner's manual calls for an oil meeting GM Standard 4718M, which only some synthetic 30 weight oils meet. At a normal oil temp of about 212F, the viscosity of a 30 weight oil is about 10-12 cSt. Unfortunately, in a car without an oil cooler, the oil temp at a DE can easily climb to nearly 300F. At 300F, a 30 weight oil has a vicosity of about 3 cSt, or about 30% of normal. Ouch.

Most oil companies, but not all, test and report their oil's High Temp High Shear (HTHS) rating. The HTHS test measures a lubricant’s viscosity under severe high temperature (test is run at 300F) and shear conditions that are similar to severe service applications in an engine, such as might be found at a DE.

Here are some HTHS ratings pulled directly from the companies corporate websites, all using the same ASTM test:
AMSOIL High Performance 10w40 – 4.3
Mobil 1 EP 10w40 – 3.9
AMSOIL European 5w40 – 3.7
Mobil 1 0w40 – 3.6
AMSOIL Series 2000 0w30 – 3.4 (meets GM Standard 4718M)
Mobil 1 EP 10w30 – 3.21
AMSOIL SAE 10w30 – 3.2 (meets GM Standard 4718M)
AMSOIL SAE 5w30 – 3.2 (meets GM Standard 4718M)
Mobil 1 10w30 – 3.14 (meets GM Standard 4718M)
Pennzoil Platinum 10w30 – 3.1 (meets GM Standard 4718M)
Mobil 1 5w30 – 3.09 (meets GM Standard 4718M)
Mobil 1 EP 5w30 – 3.08
Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 – 3.0 (meets GM Standard 4718M)
Mobil 1 0w30 – 2.99 (meets GM Standard 4718M)

As you can see, if you want to comply with the owner's manual, you are sort of stuck between a rock and a hard place. The AMSOIL High Performance 10w40 that I am currently using (even with an oil cooler my oil temps hovered around 250F at my last two races) has an HTHS rating 39% higher than the stock Mobil 1 5w30. But this oil doesn't meet GM Standard 4178M, which isn't an issue for me.

For those wanting the best protection in an oil labeled to meet GM Standard 4718M, I recommend the AMSOIL Series 2000 0w30.

For whatever oil you chose to run, I personally am not convinced the Oil Life Monitor accurately measures oil life at those elevated temps, so I recommend changing your oil much more often than indicated by the OLM. I change my oil about every two race weekends, but I don't get as much track time in a typical SCCA race weekend as I do at a DE. My oil change interval works out to about 500 miles per change.
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Old 04-23-2006, 01:43 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Subdriver
I use these on the track (and they meet GM specs for the Z06):
AMSOIL ATF
AMSOIL Severe Gear Extreme Pressure Synthetic 75w90 (comes with friction modifier in it and I don't need any extra to prevent diff chatter)

This comes in handy for DIY: AMSOIL Hand Pump

Engine oil is a hard call for DEs and everyone will have to make a tough personal decision. The owner's manual calls for an oil meeting GM Standard 4718M, which only some synthetic 30 weight oils meet. At a normal oil temp of about 212F, the viscosity of a 30 weight oil is about 10-12 cSt. Unfortunately, in a car without an oil cooler, the oil temp at a DE can easily climb to nearly 300F. At 300F, a 30 weight oil has a vicosity of about 3 cSt, or about 30% of normal. Ouch.

Most oil companies, but not all, test and report their oil's High Temp High Shear (HTHS) rating. The HTHS test measures a lubricant’s viscosity under severe high temperature (test is run at 300F) and shear conditions that are similar to severe service applications in an engine, such as might be found at a DE.

Here are some HTHS ratings pulled directly from the companies corporate websites, all using the same ASTM test:
AMSOIL High Performance 10w40 – 4.3
Mobil 1 EP 10w40 – 3.9
AMSOIL European 5w40 – 3.7
Mobil 1 0w40 – 3.6
AMSOIL Series 2000 0w30 – 3.4 (meets GM Standard 4718M)
Mobil 1 EP 10w30 – 3.21
AMSOIL SAE 10w30 – 3.2 (meets GM Standard 4718M)
AMSOIL SAE 5w30 – 3.2 (meets GM Standard 4718M)
Mobil 1 10w30 – 3.14 (meets GM Standard 4718M)
Pennzoil Platinum 10w30 – 3.1 (meets GM Standard 4718M)
Mobil 1 5w30 – 3.09 (meets GM Standard 4718M)
Mobil 1 EP 5w30 – 3.08
Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 – 3.0 (meets GM Standard 4718M)
Mobil 1 0w30 – 2.99 (meets GM Standard 4718M)

As you can see, if you want to comply with the owner's manual, you are sort of stuck between a rock and a hard place. The AMSOIL High Performance 10w40 that I am currently using (even with an oil cooler my oil temps hovered around 250F at my last two races) has an HTHS rating 39% higher than the stock Mobil 1 5w30. But this oil doesn't meet GM Standard 4178M, which isn't an issue for me.

For those wanting the best protection in an oil labeled to meet GM Standard 4718M, I recommend the AMSOIL Series 2000 0w30.

For whatever oil you chose to run, I personally am not convinced the Oil Life Monitor accurately measures oil life at those elevated temps, so I recommend changing your oil much more often than indicated by the OLM. I change my oil about every two race weekends, but I don't get as much track time in a typical SCCA race weekend as I do at a DE. My oil change interval works out to about 500 miles per change.
Thanks again sub! Im curious, did you know the viscosity/temperature rates noted off the top of your head? If so thats REALLY impressive.
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