I'm headed to the DE tblackj set up for Hallet and he's suggesting that I change the brake fluid. Here's my question. This is the first time I've ever done this and since I plan on focusing on learning and not hitting it too hard, is a brake fluid change still a necessity? If so, do I go with the Motul RBF600 Factory Line brake fluid? I'm also guessing that a speed bleeder kit would also be worth it. Any tricks I need to know before I attempt this? I'm guessing no problems with mixing stock with Motul to get it flushed. Any idea how many pints will be needed?
If you've never changed your fluid before, I would recommend it if you're going to do a DE. The stock fluid boils far too easily and even if you're not hard on the brakes, you will probably end up with a mushy pedal at some point during the DE.
Motul RBF 600 is fine. I use ATE and haven't had any issues with it. I'll probably give Motul a try next though. It's not that much more expensive. Only twice as much. Not nearly as bad as something like Castrol, which is overkill unless you are a very experienced driver or race the car. Still.. I know racers that use Motul and don't have issues.
If this is your first time, I would suggest having the brake fluid flushed with a tech2 at the dealer. This will get all of your original fluid out of the system, including the fluid in the ABS. If you weren't to get all the DOT3 fluid out, it would mix with the Motul fluid, but it would lower your boiling points. After the initial brake fluid flush, you can bleed and flush the system yourself. I would highly recommend the tech2 flush when changing fluid types though.
Speedbleeders are a good idea, especially if you don't have someone to get in the car and pump the pedal while you turn the bleeders screw.
If you continue to do DE's, you might want to consider more agressive pads, DRM brake ducts (spindle ducts possibly as well) to help cool the front rotors. Stainless Steel brake lines to firm up the pedal feel. Stainless Steel caliper pistons to keep the heat down in the caliper.
You need about one pint of brake fluid to flush the system. I would suggest buying 2 liters though. With the Motul, which comes in half liter cans (ATE comes in 1 liter cans), I would suggest buying 3 cans of it for a total of 1.5 liters.
Prices..
ATE Super Blue/type 200 Gold (same stuff, just different color) is about $10-15 per 1 liter can.
Motul RBF 600 is about the same cost for a half liter can.
Castrol SRF is about $60-$80 per liter.
Patrick,
I think changing the brake fluid to something like Motul RBF 600 is a good idea, but not critical for your first DE, unless you have prior experience.
I haven't been to Hallett yet (plan on racing there July 4th), so I'm not too sure how hard that track is on brakes.
When you do end up flushing, a couple of bottles should do. I replaced all four calipers at the beginning of this season and only needed one bottle of Motul to fill and bleed them.
If you don't do the Tech II flush, I suggest you bleed, drive and activate ABS a few times, then bleed again. This will flush the old fluid out of the ABS block.
Sub is right, although I have seen a few novices absolutely trash brakes, usually the younger guys.
It takes 1 quart at least of fluid to change.
Ford makes a high performance fluid that is very reasonable.
Valvoline also makes a good synthetic for around $7 a quart.
These will work fine for the first few schools.
Dave
I'm guessing no problems with mixing stock with Motul to get it flushed.
Motul RBF 600 is compatible with DOT3 which is what the stock fluid is and you're right it can be mixed with it.
However, that is not a good idea. Reason being the stock fluid, with its lower wet boiling point, will instantly boil should it come into contact with the Motul which has a much higher wet boiling point.
So, if there is any stock fluid in the ABS system for instance and you activate the ABS, that stock fluid will mix with the Motul and you get instant vaporization and your pedal goes to the floor just when you might need brakes the most.
Either have the Tech 2 bleed procedure done or purposely activate the ABS several times and re-bleed after each session. It's best to do this 2 or 3 separate times to ensure you get all the DOT3 out.
I should add that neither Castrol SRF or AP Racing are compatible with the stock DOT3 or any other fluid for that matter.
I like ATE blue.You see blue fluid comming out you are done...Did it without the tech 2.Just like mentioned above,bleed, ativate ABS,bleed again..RR,LF,LR,RF,in that order..Good luck
Thanks for all the info. I do plan on taking it very easy as I will have to drive the Z home. Subdriver, my anniversary is July 4th, do you think I can talk my wife into spending it at Hallet? Probably not. I was thinking that you were hitting Heartland in June. If that's the case, what's the date?
Subdriver, my anniversary is July 4th, do you think I can talk my wife into spending it at Hallet?
Probably not a good idea.
Assuming things go well this weekend at Memphis, the race at Heartland Park is next weekend, June 5-6. You can see my schedule on my website below. I try to keep that up to date.
Hope we can cross paths at one of these events.
So, if there is any stock fluid in the ABS system for instance and you activate the ABS, that stock fluid will mix with the Motul and you get instant vaporization and your pedal goes to the floor just when you might need brakes the most.
While I have read this probably a hundred times how, I personally am a little skeptical about it. The ABS block is several feet of brake line from the nearest brake rotor (RF). The brake fluid doesn't flow, it just moves back and forth as the pedal is depressed and the pistons move in and out. The heat from the rotor/pads would have to travel through all the line to the ABS block. Essentially, I believe there will be a temperature gradient from the pad to the ABS block and that the temp of the fluid at the block will be in the range of a couple hundred degrees (engine compartment ambient). This shouldn't be an issue for the stock fluid.
I cooked my fluid at my first DE. The track was pretty tough on brakes (Gingerman Raceway). I basically got through the DE, but my brake pedal was mush by the end of the day for the ride home. I should've bled them, but it was night by then and I wasn't prepared to bleed them.
What you're saying is true for a hydraulic system. That is there is no flow, per se. (unless you have a leak) However, after repeated bleedings the different fluid types mix if the ABS system was activated previously.
Subdriver, my anniversary is July 4th, do you think I can talk my wife into spending it at Hallet?
Good luck!! NASA's having a DE at Homestead and I realllly wanted to go but of course, its on my anniversary. My wife is great and reasonably understanding about my track addiction, but that was pushing my luck. Her reaction was kinda like this:
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Probably not. I was thinking that you were hitting Heartland in June. If that's the case, what's the date?
Good luck!! NASA's having a DE at Homestead and I realllly wanted to go but of course, its on my anniversary. 
My wife is great and reasonably understanding about my track addiction, but that was pushing my luck. Her reaction was kinda like this:
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