Z06Vette.com - Corvette Z06 Forum

gmblack3 · 07-19-2002, 08:10 PM

Brake Pads Replacement - Front

Removal Procedure

Inspect the fluid level in the brake master cylinder reservoir.
If the brake fluid level is midway between the maximum-full point and the minimum allowable level, no brake fluid needs to be removed from the reservoir before proceeding.
If the brake fluid level is higher than midway between the maximum-full point and the minimum allowable level, remove brake fluid to the midway point before proceeding.

Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
Remove the tire and wheel assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Tires and Wheels.
Hand tighten a wheel lug nut to a wheel stud to secure the rotor to the hub.

Install large C-clamp (2) over the body of the brake caliper (1) with the C-clamp ends against the rear of the caliper body and against the outboard brake pad.
Tighten the C-clamp (2) evenly until the caliper pistons are compressed into the caliper bores enough to allow the caliper to slide past the brake rotor.
Remove the C-clamp from the caliper.

Remove the upper brake caliper guide pin bolt. 15 and 18mm wrenches needed

Pivot the brake caliper body downward and secure the caliper out of the way with heavy mechanic's wire or equivalent; ensure that there is no tension on the hydraulic brake flexible hose. Do NOT disconnect the hydraulic brake flexible hose from the caliper.

Remove the brake pads from the caliper bracket.
Remove and inspect the brake pad retainers from the caliper bracket.

Installation Procedure
Inspect the caliper slide boots for cuts, tears, or deterioration. If damaged, replace the slides and the boots. Refer to Disc Brake Hardware Replacement - Front .

Install large C-clamp (1) over the body of the brake caliper (3) with the C-clamp ends against the rear of the caliper body and against an old inboard brake pad (2) or a wood block installed against the caliper pistons.
Tighten the C-clamp (1) evenly until the caliper pistons are compressed completely into the caliper bores.
Remove the C-clamp and the old brake pad or wood block from the caliper.

Install the brake pad retainers to the caliper bracket.
Install the brake pads to the caliper bracket. The brake pad wear sensor, mounted on the inboard brake pad, must be positioned so that it is in the trailing position during forward rotation of the brake rotor.

Front pads: Position wear sensor on the inbd upper position.

REar pads: Position wear sensor on the inbd lower position.

Pivot the brake caliper upward, over the brake pads and into the caliper bracket.

Install the upper brake caliper guide pin bolt. Tighten
Tighten the brake caliper guide pin bolt to 31 N·m (23 lb ft).

Install the tire and wheel assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Tires and Wheels.

Lower the vehicle.

With the engine OFF, gradually apply the brake pedal to approximately 2/3 of its travel distance.

Slowly release the brake pedal.

Wait 15 seconds, then repeat these steps until a firm brake pedal apply is obtained; this will properly seat the brake caliper pistons and brake pads.

Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir to the proper level. Refer to Master Cylinder Reservoir Filling in Hydraulic Brakes.

gmblack3 · 07-20-2002, 10:04 AM

BTW the 18mm wrench is not in your average wrench set. But its used here and to lower the rear of the car with the factory bolts.

22655TD · 07-20-2002, 11:34 AM

Good how to class. Don't forget to use the blue goop on the
piston side of the pads for squeking issues.
Also I just got the 01 pads installed on my 02 and the dust is gone but I do notice slight less meat when I brake super hard.
When is the clutch install segment of this home garage install class set up for??

Jayzvette · 07-20-2002, 12:28 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by 22655TD
Good how to class. When is the clutch install segment of this home garage install class set up for??

great info...

gmblack3 · 07-20-2002, 08:04 PM

I used the red goop that I had on both inbd and outbd pads. I just put it on where contact is made with the caliper and pistons. I also wiped out most of the old brake dust from the contact areas on the caliper.

Squealed a little when I started to bed the pads in but went away after a few 60-30 runs.

Clutch replacement

Hopefully I won't need that for a while. If you want the instructions from the GM manual let me know.

Quote:

Originally posted by 22655TD
Good how to class. Don't forget to use the blue goop on the
piston side of the pads for squeking issues.
Also I just got the 01 pads installed on my 02 and the dust is gone but I do notice slight less meat when I brake super hard.
When is the clutch install segment of this home garage install class set up for??

ZO6LS6 · 09-17-2002, 05:45 PM

Clutch is a WHOLE nuther story.....best left to the really wrench inclined....WITH proper facilities to do so.....

Speedracer · 09-18-2002, 11:59 AM

Thanks for the highly detailed info. Was any one step a PITA or did it all go fairly smoothly.

Rapid Transit · 09-18-2002, 12:10 PM

Great info gmblack!

I used your pictures for my install last night. I put on PF 01 compound pads for the front only. Some observations: I did not take out the pad retainer, once the caliper were rotated out of the way, the old pads were lifted out easily by hands, the new pads went just as easily. I didn't use any goop material. I also changed fluid to Motul 600, I know I should've gone to a dealer with a Tech II, but even mixed with the old fluid from ABS, it's still better than stock. Did some high speed stops to bed in the pads. There were some squeaking sounds, but PF told me to expect this with race pads. So Im not too concerned. I did notice that ABS went on sooner when I did the panic brake test. Is this normal? Is it due to the new pads grabbing with more force?

Thanks,

rjn · 09-18-2002, 12:22 PM

Nice post -

Alternatively, you can remove the lower guide pin, and rotate the caliper UP.

- no tension whatsoever on the brake line
- caliper kind of just rests on disc on its own

Wish the backs were the same way, but the brake line is too short - gotta take both bolts out

Brutus0725 · 09-18-2002, 12:56 PM

What are the part numbers for the 02' brake pads? Thanks.

Rapid Transit · 09-18-2002, 01:23 PM

brutus,
Are you asking me about the 01 compounds?

KillerVette · 11-18-2003, 06:24 PM

Why would i have to remove brake fluid??

Subdriver · 11-18-2003, 07:15 PM

Killer,
I use a screwdriver and pry out my calipers. Whether you use my easy, don't care if you scratch the calipers, lazy, need it done now before the next session starts method, or the caliper method described above, when you compress the pistons in the caliper, fluid is going to go back up into the reservoir. If you go from really old pads to new ones, you will have to compress pistons a lot. This will send more fluid back up into the reservoir than it can hold and it will overflow. Not a big casualty, but a mess of really nasty, paint eating stuff.

KillerVette · 11-18-2003, 07:17 PM

I see. cool. thanks!

**DennyM** · 12-10-2005, 11:50 AM

OK ... I thought I had it straight ... then a guy tells me that the rear calipers on all GM cars require a tool to "screw" rather than press the pistons on the rear calipers.

I see a pad change coming up, and I don't want to be caught.
Can the honorable originator of this hoary thread or other give me the straight, no

gouge on this?