nice write up but is it 16 or 18 mm on the slide pin? I think 16 mm open end. If your pads are shot your fluid should be changed also. I see you have 18mm on there I may be mistaken.
OK ... I thought I had it straight ... then a guy tells me that the rear calipers on all GM cars require a tool to "screw" rather than press the pistons on the rear calipers.
I see a pad change coming up, and I don't want to be caught.
Can the honorable originator of this hoary thread or other give me the straight, no gouge on this?
Denny,
I can't tell you how many times I have replaced pads... I've use a screwdriver on the caliper to pry the outer edge out, compressing the piston and pushing it in (while still attached to the car before you start unbolting things), I've used a c-clamp, I've used my fingers... but never a tool to screw them in...
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nice write up but is it 16 or 18 mm on the slide pin? I think 16 mm open end. If your pads are shot your fluid should be changed also. I see you have 18mm on there I may be mistaken.
Pretty confident the outside of the front slide pin is 18mm, the outside of the rear slide pin is 16mm and the inner face of the slide pin on both is 15mm.
Denny,
I can't tell you how many times I have replaced pads... I've use a screwdriver on the caliper to pry the outer edge out, compressing the piston and pushing it in (while still attached to the car before you start unbolting things), I've used a c-clamp, I've used my fingers... but never a tool to screw them in...
Pretty confident the outside of the front slide pin is 18mm, the outside of the rear slide pin is 16mm and the inner face of the slide pin on both is 15mm.
I think he is referring to the REAR CALIPERS. Do they require a tool to "screw" them in....or can they be pushed back in too?
It is obvious that my search abilities are poor. But I did an extension search and could only find this thread.
What happened to the pictures?
I am currently trying to find enough technical advice to completely rebuild my brake system (C5Z06; 42K miles).
The pics don't show for me either (pics are blocked at my work site, where I'm "on break" )
Thread here contains GM repair manual "speak" with a lot of cautions ...
You can get new bolts, OR you can do what many do ... clean the old ones off, re-use, with hi-temp (red) threadlocker.
Couple things ... I do things in bleed order: RR, LF, LR, RF (left is drivers's side) and when I compress pads, I open bleed screw (I have speedbleeders too) so I don't push old fluid back into the lines.
You'll need a breaker bar and 21mm socket (best to have a 12 pt and a 6 pt because working area is limited radius).
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Originally Posted by Vintage racer
The rotors are useless. They have a large "lip". I am not sending them to a machine. I need new ones.
If you want OEM-spec blanks, Rockauto or NAPA (they're all made in China these days)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vintage racer
I also need new front and rear pads. I was able to narrow this down to a couple of sets that I read about in my search on this board.
Choice depends in part on your application - street, autox, hpde, racing, etc.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vintage racer
The original brake lines seem OK, but I am not against replacing them. Suggestions?
OEM lines are pretty robust ... discerning folks claim a firmer pedal feel with SS lines. AN-1 lines have many advocates; banjo end lines have been fine for me. Longer lines go on back. If car is lowered, good to have longer lines. My stoptech lines are about 5/8" longer than stocks. Use copper, not aluminum crush washers ... helps in grounding lines, preventing static buildup and "abs" codes. NOTE: come back if you have brake line or line installation specific questions
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vintage racer
I plan to flush the brake fluid while the car is up on jack stands. DOT3 or DOT4 is OK?
OEM is DOT3; ... again, depends on your application ... frequent track use suggests higher temp DOT4, which is more hydroscopic, and therefore tends toward its wet boiling point. CW is that a full DOT4 fill requires a TechII tool to clear the ABS resevoir, tho if selected DOT4 is compatible with DOT 3, you can get by without a the Tech II and then go out and engage ABS a few times to move new fluid thru the ABS.
OH, and while you're at it, pull the cap on your clutch MC and look at the fluid ... likely it needs sucked out and replaced in several iterations ... my rule of is that, if I can't see the orifice at bottom of resevoir thru the fluid, I suck it out and fill, pump the clutch about 20 times, check again. first flush sometimes takes 3-4 iterations across several short drives to get the fluid clear ... not the same as a full slave bleed, but you can do it without disassembling the exhaust and tunnle plate!
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^VIR Turn 3 '08^-MungoZ06-'03 QS/ModRed - NCCC, NASA NCM Member - Z06 Fest IV,V,VI,VII
Last edited by DennyM : 06-02-2008 at 12:50 PM.
Reason: added brake line note and removed recursive link!
OK ... I thought I had it straight ... then a guy tells me that the rear calipers on all GM cars require a tool to "screw" rather than press the pistons on the rear calipers.
I see a pad change coming up, and I don't want to be caught.
Can the honorable originator of this hoary thread or other give me the straight, no gouge on this?
He's talking about a caliper piston "press" tool. It doesn't screw the piston in, but you turn a screw on the press to easily COMPRESS the piston.
It's a nice tool but a large screwdriver (like Sub uses) to gain a little working room will allow you to pop out the old pad. Then I use a very large c clamp (opens up to like 10-12 inches) to go around the back of the caliper & press the piston the rest of the way in.
Make sure you don't overflow the master. I have & it's a damn mess to clean up, but if you are fast, no damage results.
.. I do things in bleed order: RR, LF, LR, RF (left is drivers's side) and when I compress pads, I open bleed screw (I have speedbleeders too) so I don't push old fluid back into the lines.
Thanks for running through the process. I always do my own work, but when I called the local Chevy dealer to get a price on their parts; I talked to the service department. You will not believe their estimated price $1500. BTW, this car has never been in the GM service bay: no warranty work, nothing but routine maintenance).
I have an account with Napa; their quote on four pads, four rotors, and DOT3 was $275. BTW, they said the front rotors were the same, but the rear rotors were different (the RR rotor was actually $4 more). )
I don't understand the bleeding procedure. I always started bleeding on the caliper furtherest from the master cylinder and worked to the closet one.
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OEM lines are pretty robust ...
The original lines looked good with no noticeable deterioration. I think I'll leave them on and change them on the next pad change.
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OEM is DOT3
I am going to just continue to use DOT3. The car gets little abuse (it may be the only stock C5 left on the road ).
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..pull the cap on your clutch MC and look at the fluid ... likely it needs sucked out and replaced in several iterations ...
That is an excellent idea. I hadn't even thought about it.
I keep my power steering fluid flushed in a similar way. I just occasionally clean up the older fluid without doing a complete flush (like I said; it's a street car).
I guess I'll take a look at the rear axle seals while the car is in the air. Of course, I'll clean out all of the stuff that gets caught in the radiator shroud.
Don't know what pads you're getting so dunno on price.
Rotor prices are up to $30. or so each. And due to the cooling vanes, each corner is unique. Last set of fronts I got was from RockAuto "AC Delco Premium" ... (made in China ) ...
NAPA part numbers usta B:
Part #s
86700
86701
86702
86703
RockAuto Part #'s:
56700 - RH
56701 - LH
56702
56703
Professional Grade:
56700R - RH
56701R - LH
56702R
56703R
Yes ... lotsa guys say the same on bleed order; I just go by what was posted as being what the manual says for C5Z years ...
Bleed order changed during C5 run (I think in 2000).
Yes ... I also cycle my PS fluid ... went from GM std to Valvoline Synblend to Redline synthetic; Use Amsoil in the powertrain.
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gouge on this? 
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is that, if I can't see the orifice at bottom of resevoir thru the fluid, I suck it out and fill, pump the clutch about 20 times, check again. first flush sometimes takes 3-4 iterations across several short drives to get the fluid clear ... not the same as a full slave bleed, but you can do it without disassembling the exhaust and tunnle plate! 
BTW, this car has never been in the GM service bay: no warranty work, nothing but routine maintenance).
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