Ive got a set of drilled/slotted rotors on the way along with some ceramic pads and am curious how hard of an install this is going to be. Im ok at theses projects as long as I have instructions to follow. Shifter install and lowering went great with the instructions I found on here. Im a bit more hesitant with the brakes though, being that I dont know anything about brakes and if I get in over my head its going to create a big problem. Any thoughts?
Once you've got the wheel off you need one (1) wrench to get the job done. This single tool will allow you to remove the caliper bracket from the knuckle, which will allow you to remove the brake rotor. Pop the old rotor off and throw the new one on.
Then the pads come out of the caliper by hand. You may need to leave one pad in against the pistons and use a C-clamp to press the pistons back in.
CAUTION! Before pressing the pistons back into the calipers make sure there's room in the master cylinder for the fluid to return! If someone has "topped up" your brake fluid (which you should never have to do unless you have a leak), the fluid will spill over and out of the resevoir... brake fluid eats paint, so this would be a bad thing.
Once the pistons are pushed back into the caliper, install the new pads, then use your ONE wrench to reattach the caliper bracket to the knuckle.
Repeat 4X, pump the pedal to take up any slop, then
Disc brakes are extremely easy to do yourself. If you're really unsure of your abilities I'd get help, but there's nothing complicated at all about disc brakes.
Good luck!
__________________
'02 EB/MR Z
Halltech Stngr, LGM Pro LTs, Stock Tune, 4 18" R2's on OEM Rears
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80% Track, 20% Driver, 100% Z
This is overkill ... but the first thread shows pad change and the others have a bunch of annecdotal input on calipers, bolts, etc.
I'll be changing pads this coming weekend for the first time, and have the stuff to change rotors when I need to.
When I changed out the pads and rotors on mine it was a snap. In fact it was probably the easiest car I have ever changed pads on. It wouldn't hurt to have a buddy over to help - esp to bleed the brakes. This may sound somewhat simple as advice, but only do one wheel at a time that way if you do run into problems you can look at the other side to help get the parts back together.
Rotors go on a patricular way, well at least until the C6 Z06 came along, but at any rate, if you want to be 100% correct, here is a link that explains which way rotors go on....I changed out my rotors, didn't do the pads, but it was a real piece of cake. Get yourself some RED loctite to put the caliper bolts back in with.....borrow or buy a torque wrench....you are good to go!
Red loctite your gonna need a torch to break it free half the time. Blue loctite will work just fine.
__________________ 2003 Z06 with A&A Vortech V-2 T-Trim package at 8 psi B&M shifter / B&B Bullets / Nitto 555Rll's / Pfadt suspension goodies / lowered
Front plate screen mod for intercooler and substantially lower coolant temps A&A setup installed and tuned by Advanced Dyno in Suisun Ca.
Red loctite your gonna need a torch to break it free half the time. Blue loctite will work just fine.
You beat me to it..........
I don't even use Loctite but blue is what is recommended.
And for a 1st timer....walkersz06 has excellent advice.
You'll be fine, but it's also a great excuse to have a few friends over. Then afterwards fire up the grill and throw open the cooler.
Go get some buddy!!
Hey did you get in on that GP that was over on the other forum? I still need to install my package but my current setup is working just great for now.
Hey did you get in on that GP that was over on the other forum? I still need to install my package but my current setup is working just great for now.
Unfortunately I didnt notice the GP on the other forum. Ive had my eyes on the slotted/drilled corvette garage package for awhile so I went with that in addition the the ceramic pads to get rid of the brake dust. New wheels are next on the to do list and I wanted something a little nicer to look at behind them then the stock rotors.
Question #2: When I have everything apart I want to give the rotors a good cleaning. Any tips on what to use to really make the red shine?
Unfortunately I didnt notice the GP on the other forum. Ive had my eyes on the slotted/drilled corvette garage package for awhile so I went with that in addition the the ceramic pads to get rid of the brake dust. New wheels are next on the to do list and I wanted something a little nicer to look at behind them then the stock rotors.
Question #2: When I have everything apart I want to give the rotors a good cleaning. Any tips on what to use to really make the red shine?
I just use a nice soapy mit and rub them out. They clean up fairly easily.
Also, personal tip to keep the inner barrels of the wheels clean.... have the rotors zinc washed if they aren't already. It'll keep the vanes from rusting and if they rust then they will sling rusty stained water at the wheel.
I just finished removing my fronts and having to do the cleaning/ polishing/ buffing to remove the crud. And I try to wash between the spokes every time.
Just a thought.
Sorry, but to all who are saying "this is a breeze", "this is easy", I gotta say I disagree...
I just changed pads and rotors recently, and although I loved doing so and would/will do so again in a heartbeat, I didn't find it easy by any means!!! I don't know, maybe I'm just a wimp
The real hard part I thought was removing the caliper brackets. Mine were put there (from the factory I assume) with red lock-tite, and those biotches (excuse my french), 2 per wheels, didn't come off easy!!!
More than simply a wrench is needed for the job. I found the following DIY very informative and detailed (I know it's not a supporting vendor, but I don't believe the guy is selling anything): http://www.fastz.com/Z06/Brakes.html
If you do get a C-clamp (and you should!!!), make sure you get a 200mm one, otherwise it won't clear the caliper.
Anyway, I'm not saying all of this to scare anybody from changing their own rotors/pads, because in the end I quite enjoyed it (although I probably sucked at it).
But I just want people to know, especially people who haven't worked on cars all that much, that it won't take them half an hour + beer drinking time
If the caliper bolts are on from the factory you will need a breaker bar to free them most likely. It took my 15 minutes per wheel to change out the rotors/pads and that was wit ha kidney stone nailing me and on pain pills.
If you do get a C-clamp (and you should!!!), make sure you get a 200mm one, otherwise it won't clear the caliper.
If you plan to do your brakes on a regular basis moving forward, a caliper compression tool is worth getting. I think I got mine at Sears hardware for around 12.00. The right tools make the job go even faster. Good Luck
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