I'm attending my 1st driving school at VIR in April and need to change the brake fluid. I have the Valvoline synthetic DOT 4 brake fluid and one of those do it yourself bleeding tools. Now what? Anyone with directions, pictures and lessons learned? Thanks in advance, Frank
__________________
Torch Red with black, Covercraft Noah cover, Donaldson Blackwing, hood seal, coupler, Kirban shifter and Zaino.
Use a turkey baster to remove the fluid in the master cylinder reservoir and replace with fresh fluid. This insures that you are putting fresh fluid into the system from the master cylinder.
Start at the RIGHT REAR wheel. Read the instructions for the bleeder that you purchased and bleed that wheel until you see a change in the fluid color. The change in color indicates the fresh fluid from the master cylinder has purged all the old stuff out of the lines. Next do the LEFT FRONT, then the LEFT REAR and finally the RIGHT FRONT.
Make sure to periodically check the level in the master cylinder. You don't want to be sucking air in from the top. That would mean you'd have to start all over again.
If you want to do it yourself that's the procedure. If you want a pressure flush done, make sure they know the proper sequence for your Corvette.
Which event? I enjoy VIR very much. Charlie's procedure is dead on. That's how I do it also.
__________________
Brian A. Marks
PFYC.com - click our banner ad below to visit our C5 Accessories Store, or click here to visit our C6 Accessories Store
You will find that a synthetic fluid has more compressablity than a Dot 3 fluid. Use Ford or any other racing fluid,and change out the clutch fluid at the same time.My clutch fluid runs hotter than the brake fluid.Check with www.racerswholesale.com for brake fluids and their boiling points Ford has a boiling point of 550 deg.Stainless Steel brakes fluid is 580 and i believe the GM stuff is 375 or 400 deg.If your front pads start to fade,add a extra front brake airduct,if you look under the front wheel well you will see that the stock duck is blocked by the tire when the wheels are pointed straight ahead.
The number one brake fluid is Castrol SRF. Its a synthetic fluid
with the highest wet boiling point available. Dry boiling point
means nothing, its the wet that matters. This fluid is used by
most road race teams. Its pricey at about $70 a bottle,but
its awesome fluid!
I thought that you would start at the Right Rear and then the Left Rear, Right Front and then the Left Front. Working from the caliper furthest away to the closest to the master cylinder.
Looks like a nice product but I have never used them.
Quote:
Originally posted by NYCHASM Frank,
Here's the way I do brake fluid flushes:
Use a turkey baster to remove the fluid in the master cylinder reservoir and replace with fresh fluid. This insures that you are putting fresh fluid into the system from the master cylinder.
Start at the RIGHT REAR wheel. Read the instructions for the bleeder that you purchased and bleed that wheel until you see a change in the fluid color. The change in color indicates the fresh fluid from the master cylinder has purged all the old stuff out of the lines. Next do the LEFT FRONT, then the LEFT REAR and finally the RIGHT FRONT.
Make sure to periodically check the level in the master cylinder. You don't want to be sucking air in from the top. That would mean you'd have to start all over again.
If you want to do it yourself that's the procedure. If you want a pressure flush done, make sure they know the proper sequence for your Corvette.
The procedure that starts at the furthest caliper and works toward the closest caliper ( to the master cylinder) has always been the conventional wisdom. Corvette however, has used the RR, LF, LR, RF procedure for quite some time, I believe since the first ABS system, which I believe was in 1986.
I'm not sure why they do it that way. I'm sure there's a perfectly good reason, I just don't know it!
Charlie
PS - I have just one concern regarding the Speed Bleeders. That is, when the bleeder is closed, as in normal operating position, what might happen if for some reason the check valve failed. If there's a possibility that brake fluid could pass through the check valve and leak out, that's something I don't want to have to be concerned about. If it's a failsafe condition, where check valve failure does NOT mean fluid loss, then the bleeders seem like a great idea for anyone that changes fluid every two years (which we all should do).
Charlie, thanks for clearing that up for me on the bleeding process.
I understand your concern on the speedbleeders. Would hate to be at a track and loose brakes.
Quote:
Originally posted by NYCHASM The procedure that starts at the furthest caliper and works toward the closest caliper ( to the master cylinder) has always been the conventional wisdom. Corvette however, has used the RR, LF, LR, RF procedure for quite some time, I believe since the first ABS system, which I believe was in 1986.
I'm not sure why they do it that way. I'm sure there's a perfectly good reason, I just don't know it!
Charlie
PS - I have just one concern regarding the Speed Bleeders. That is, when the bleeder is closed, as in normal operating position, what might happen if for some reason the check valve failed. If there's a possibility that brake fluid could pass through the check valve and leak out, that's something I don't want to have to be concerned about. If it's a failsafe condition, where check valve failure does NOT mean fluid loss, then the bleeders seem like a great idea for anyone that changes fluid every two years (which we all should do).
Alan, The pass side is always the right side (not in england of course). If its a car or an airplane, its always if you are sitting in the drivers or the pilots seat.
Like they say the only dumb question is the one that you don't ask!
Thanks to everyone for their valuable input. I replaced my brake fluid yesterday LR, RR, RF and LF. I used a MightVac and it worked great, pump it up to about 70 on the gauge and open the bleed valve and presto! It used a little less than a quart. Took the car for a test drive last night and the car stops slightly better.
AutoForums.com is the premier network of enthusiast-owned
enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
We operate more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share
experiences and opinions as a community.