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Old 03-22-2002, 01:30 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Changing brake fluid

I'm attending my 1st driving school at VIR in April and need to change the brake fluid. I have the Valvoline synthetic DOT 4 brake fluid and one of those do it yourself bleeding tools. Now what? Anyone with directions, pictures and lessons learned? Thanks in advance, Frank
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Old 03-22-2002, 02:21 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Frank,

Here's the way I do brake fluid flushes:

Use a turkey baster to remove the fluid in the master cylinder reservoir and replace with fresh fluid. This insures that you are putting fresh fluid into the system from the master cylinder.

Start at the RIGHT REAR wheel. Read the instructions for the bleeder that you purchased and bleed that wheel until you see a change in the fluid color. The change in color indicates the fresh fluid from the master cylinder has purged all the old stuff out of the lines. Next do the LEFT FRONT, then the LEFT REAR and finally the RIGHT FRONT.

Make sure to periodically check the level in the master cylinder. You don't want to be sucking air in from the top. That would mean you'd have to start all over again.

If you want to do it yourself that's the procedure. If you want a pressure flush done, make sure they know the proper sequence for your Corvette.

Good luck,

Charlie
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Old 03-22-2002, 03:33 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Which event? I enjoy VIR very much. Charlie's procedure is dead on. That's how I do it also.
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Old 03-22-2002, 04:14 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Thanks guys. I'll let you know how it turns out.

Redshift, I'm attending a school taught by the Tarheel Sports Car Club. Check it out! www.thscc.com Also under Mid-Atlantic events on this forum.
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Old 03-22-2002, 04:50 PM   #5 (permalink)
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You will find that a synthetic fluid has more compressablity than a Dot 3 fluid. Use Ford or any other racing fluid,and change out the clutch fluid at the same time.My clutch fluid runs hotter than the brake fluid.Check with www.racerswholesale.com for brake fluids and their boiling points Ford has a boiling point of 550 deg.Stainless Steel brakes fluid is 580 and i believe the GM stuff is 375 or 400 deg.If your front pads start to fade,add a extra front brake airduct,if you look under the front wheel well you will see that the stock duck is blocked by the tire when the wheels are pointed straight ahead.
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Old 03-22-2002, 06:30 PM   #6 (permalink)
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The number one brake fluid is Castrol SRF. Its a synthetic fluid
with the highest wet boiling point available. Dry boiling point
means nothing, its the wet that matters. This fluid is used by
most road race teams. Its pricey at about $70 a bottle,but
its awesome fluid!
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Old 03-22-2002, 07:06 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I thought that you would start at the Right Rear and then the Left Rear, Right Front and then the Left Front. Working from the caliper furthest away to the closest to the master cylinder.

some guys use Speed Bleeders:

http://www.speedbleeder.com/

Looks like a nice product but I have never used them.


Quote:
Originally posted by NYCHASM
Frank,

Here's the way I do brake fluid flushes:

Use a turkey baster to remove the fluid in the master cylinder reservoir and replace with fresh fluid. This insures that you are putting fresh fluid into the system from the master cylinder.

Start at the RIGHT REAR wheel. Read the instructions for the bleeder that you purchased and bleed that wheel until you see a change in the fluid color. The change in color indicates the fresh fluid from the master cylinder has purged all the old stuff out of the lines. Next do the LEFT FRONT, then the LEFT REAR and finally the RIGHT FRONT.

Make sure to periodically check the level in the master cylinder. You don't want to be sucking air in from the top. That would mean you'd have to start all over again.

If you want to do it yourself that's the procedure. If you want a pressure flush done, make sure they know the proper sequence for your Corvette.

Good luck,

Charlie
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Old 03-23-2002, 01:19 PM   #8 (permalink)
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gmblack3

The procedure that starts at the furthest caliper and works toward the closest caliper ( to the master cylinder) has always been the conventional wisdom. Corvette however, has used the RR, LF, LR, RF procedure for quite some time, I believe since the first ABS system, which I believe was in 1986.

I'm not sure why they do it that way. I'm sure there's a perfectly good reason, I just don't know it!

Charlie

PS - I have just one concern regarding the Speed Bleeders. That is, when the bleeder is closed, as in normal operating position, what might happen if for some reason the check valve failed. If there's a possibility that brake fluid could pass through the check valve and leak out, that's something I don't want to have to be concerned about. If it's a failsafe condition, where check valve failure does NOT mean fluid loss, then the bleeders seem like a great idea for anyone that changes fluid every two years (which we all should do).

Last edited by NYCHASM : 03-23-2002 at 01:48 PM.
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Old 03-23-2002, 08:14 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Re: gmblack3

Charlie, thanks for clearing that up for me on the bleeding process.

I understand your concern on the speedbleeders. Would hate to be at a track and loose brakes.



Quote:
Originally posted by NYCHASM
The procedure that starts at the furthest caliper and works toward the closest caliper ( to the master cylinder) has always been the conventional wisdom. Corvette however, has used the RR, LF, LR, RF procedure for quite some time, I believe since the first ABS system, which I believe was in 1986.

I'm not sure why they do it that way. I'm sure there's a perfectly good reason, I just don't know it!

Charlie

PS - I have just one concern regarding the Speed Bleeders. That is, when the bleeder is closed, as in normal operating position, what might happen if for some reason the check valve failed. If there's a possibility that brake fluid could pass through the check valve and leak out, that's something I don't want to have to be concerned about. If it's a failsafe condition, where check valve failure does NOT mean fluid loss, then the bleeders seem like a great idea for anyone that changes fluid every two years (which we all should do).
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Old 03-23-2002, 08:20 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I think i have the dumb question of the year which side is the right rear the drivers side or the pass side.

alan
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Old 03-23-2002, 08:24 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Alan, The pass side is always the right side (not in england of course). If its a car or an airplane, its always if you are sitting in the drivers or the pilots seat.

Like they say the only dumb question is the one that you don't ask!
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Old 03-23-2002, 08:26 PM   #12 (permalink)
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thanks

alan
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Old 03-23-2002, 10:09 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I thought Synthetic Brake Fluid would cause your ABS to malfunction.....I've read that in a couple of places.....Is this correct?!
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Old 03-24-2002, 11:34 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Motul 600 is a great synthetic brake fluid that is nowhere near as pricey as the Castrol SRF. It is also available at racerswholesale.com.
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Old 03-24-2002, 12:56 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Thanks to everyone for their valuable input. I replaced my brake fluid yesterday LR, RR, RF and LF. I used a MightVac and it worked great, pump it up to about 70 on the gauge and open the bleed valve and presto! It used a little less than a quart. Took the car for a test drive last night and the car stops slightly better.
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