Z06Vette.com - Corvette Z06 Forum

Steve Tillman · 12-05-2006, 09:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jub jub

Ughhh...doesn't sound like fun. I was going to do mine on jacks but now you have me thinking.

What's amazing, Tom did this in the parking lot of the NCM with basic hand tools and floor jacks.

Thanks for the tips and looking forward to your pics.

I was thinking the same thing..but FRC Tom is a major wrench turner too..not many would be able to pull that mechanical feat off as he did..

**panzer** · 12-05-2006, 07:06 PM

Some of the promised pics:
21

This was a surprise. Where the finger is pointing is where a metal tang had broken off it had embedded itself into the metal of the lower bell housing cover. So the clutch assembly was unbalanced (never felt it) which is not good. I am glad I changed the clutch when I wanted instead of when it became inoperative.

This is the side that faces the flywheel

This faces the Centerforce pressure plate

You can see one of the metal fingers that hold the plastic conduit. The braided line is the aftermarket bleed line that did not work out.

A very tired panzer

**IVOZ06** · 12-05-2006, 07:14 PM

Great pics papa panzer!!!

You do look very tired in that last pic.

**panzer** · 12-05-2006, 07:46 PM

This is the little metal tang that broke off the pressure plate at some unknown time in the past.

The braided line is the LAPD aftermarket line. You can see where the oem bleeder would stick out. Image getting your man sized hands in there with a standard sized wrench. I think you might have to cut a wrench in half to fit in that tunnel space.

The bottom line is oem braided line to connects to the clutch master cylinder. The upper brass line is the one we manufactured when the LAPD line broke during installation.

That brass fitting to the left of the slave cylinder is the OEM means of bleeding your clutch line. It goes on the left fitting .

Looking into the Random Tech metal matrix high flow cats.

**jub jub** · 12-05-2006, 08:24 PM

Ed, thanks for posting. It will help when I get around to doing mine.

**panzer** · 12-06-2006, 05:40 AM

Your welcome, I hope it saves you some grief.

**jub jub** · 12-06-2006, 06:00 AM

Hey Ed, why don't you sticky this in "Tech Tips"!

**panzer** · 12-06-2006, 07:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jub jub

Hey Ed, why don't you sticky this in "Tech Tips"!

Good idea but I will leave it here for awhile till it becomes old news/just reference material.

marlowchris · 12-06-2006, 10:56 AM

I was not aware that any aftermarket TO bearings were available. Is the Centerforce bearing the same dimensionally as the stocker? How did the Centerforce feel in comparison?

BTW that first pic of the slave cylinder had the cuick connect located right near the slave. This must be an earlier design. Later Z06 slave have a braided line running from the slave to the quick connect.

**panzer** · 12-06-2006, 11:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by marlowchris

I was not aware that any aftermarket TO bearings were available. Is the Centerforce bearing the same dimensionally as the stocker? How did the Centerforce feel in comparison?

BTW that first pic of the slave cylinder had the cuick connect located right near the slave. This must be an earlier design. Later Z06 slave have a braided line running from the slave to the quick connect.

Yes it is the same size. As to how it felt, the rest of the slave cylinder is the GM part so the spring and other parts are the same. It feels about the same in operation when you depress the pedal.

The slave comes that way out of the box. The instructions are to transfer the original braided line and connector from the original slave which I did. It is held in position by a compression drift pin. This pictures shows that. The lower braided line is the original. The throwout bearing there is the Centerforce.

marlowchris · 12-06-2006, 11:45 AM

Weird. All the slaves that I have ever ordered always have the braided line already attached. Who did you order the slave from? Did you specify the 02+ Z06 slave? Just curious.

**panzer** · 12-06-2006, 01:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by marlowchris

Weird. All the slaves that I have ever ordered always have the braided line already attached. Who did you order the slave from? Did you specify the 02+ Z06 slave? Just curious.

PM sent.

mkzynski · 02-26-2008, 06:08 AM

I just finished mine on Jackstands.

It is very doable, but ensure you have help to keep the trans/torquetube level and help align it to install. At LEAST 2 people to be safe.

Also a huge help was a angle finder tool that I used to measure the angle of the oil pan and set the trans/torque tube to the matching angle(measured on the flat of the torque tube). The splines on the torque tube went right in with virtually no effort and just a little push.

Biggest problems with the Jackstands are:

Supporting the car in the right places - Use the rear shipping slots to support the rear of the car and keep it balanced correctly with or without the transmission/torque tube weight.

Car is too low to remove transmission/torquetube easily - Ensure it is high enough off the ground for transmission removal clearance.

Car is too high to reach the transmission assembly - Ensure your floorjack has enough height to reach the transmisson assembly and support it. 2 Jacks will be necessary for the crossmember and trans/torque tube removal seperately.

Finding the right place to support the trans/torque tube assembly - Support them where the case of the transmission seperates for rebuilding, not at the torque tube/trans junction. This also leaves enough room to put a second jack under the crossmember for removal(crossmember, spindles, lower control arms can all be removed in one piece)

Note: Balancing the trans/torque tube and keeping it level can be tough so after crossmember removal a 1 x 2 board can be drilled and bolted to differential to give you or your friends handles. This helps alot for installation.

Once the torque tube is bolted to the engine again the wood piece can be removed for crossmember installation.

Note: Odd sized sockets in 18mm and 32mm (various suspension bolts and spindle bolts) are needed. Some bolts are torqued to 160+ ft. lbs. so ensure your torque wrench is capable.

Overall time for removal was about 3 hours doing it all myself with the exception of an assist to keep the trans level during lowering out of the car.

It seems that everyone does this differently and has their own tricks that work for them. Please be careful and use your best judgement if doing this yourself.

Flex182 · 03-25-2008, 07:38 PM

The book calls for an 11 hour job according to the local shops..is this time normal or can it be done in considerable less time ? That puts labor at just over $600.00

**FRC Tom** · 03-25-2008, 07:44 PM

I have done mine 3 times by myself on jackstands, once in the NCM paring lot.
Clutch Install