You only need a small strip to pull it around the metalic end of the MAF. Then install the red silicone connectors to the MAF and check to make sure you install the longer straighter end of the elbow to the MAF, not the tighter radius end.
Connector Sealant for the MAF-metal end
Here is the part number for the Connector Sealant I referred to which is like black gummy bear material, and was being sent out with all T-1s. It is found at Radio Shack under the name of Coaxial Cable Connector Sealant. Part number 278-1645
$2.79 a roll. You only need a small strip to pull it around the metalic end of the MAF. Then install the red silicone connectors to the MAF and check to make sure you install the longer straighter end of the elbow to the MAF, not the tighter radius end.
If you reverse it as one customer did in his posted picture, you could set up reversion of the airflow. This piece was designed specifically to prevent codes with the non-laminar screen version of the MAF that comes with the 2002 Z06.
If you are using the screened MAF, it wouldn't make a difference.
What I believe is happening is a slight air-leak at that coupling, which is exasserbated by closing the hood. This small airleak could allow air to seep past the wires in the MAF causing unregistered air. This would drive the computer LTFs up at idle to above 23% which is outside of authority. This fix should permanently take care of business.
Also, you can reset the LTFs by disconnecting the negative side of the battery for about 30 minutes, reconnect and redo the idle learn procedure. YOU MUST REDO THE IDLE LEARN TO RESET THE POSTION OF THE BUTTERFLY AT ZERO POSITION. Drive by wire, requires this procedure.
Pam was sending a strip out with each system, but folks through it away thinking it was wrapping stuff.
We will try to put it in a baggie for future T-1Cs.
The tape eliminates possibility of a tiny air leak at idle that makes it past the wire sensor in the MAF. This unregistered air is what causes the MIL or Check Engine Light.
If you get this code, it could be one of 500 different things. Our intake rarely causes a code if installed properly and the idle learn done after the battery is reconnected.
When installing our system you should follow our instructions online. Disconnect the negative battery cable while installing. Make sure all connections are snug but DO NOT overtighten the hose clamps. This is plastic and it will give. After everything is installed the unit can be put into the engine bay as a unit, by sliding the big red silicone boot back and forth to postition the filter properly. Then tighten the two hose clamps on the throttle body last.
Reconnect the negative battery cable. Restart and idle for about 10 minutes. At least 5 minutes at over 176-degrees-then shut off the iginition for 30 seconds.
Why you ask?
The C5 has a unique throttle body fly by wire system which is PCM regulated. If you change your a/f ratio, or loss power to the PCM, you MUST do the Idle Learn Over again to reset the zero position of the throttle plate. The PCM then knows where to set the idle, and every fuel cell/throttle postion back to stoichiometric.
If your idle seems ok even without this procedure, you may find that WOT is really not. The computer must know where zero is to figure out 100%.
I do the Idle Learn Procedure any time I change an element that could affect the a/f ratio, even though that is really not a GM required procedure.
HOW TO CLEAR YOUR CODES This applies only to lean codes created by an air leak from our system. P0171 or P0174.
From the driver's seat: turn the key on, when the bells stop, hold the Options button down and press the Fuel Button simultaneously four times in a row, while depressing the Options button. Then Press the Options button one more time. You are in diagnostic manual mode. Two button up will show you the codes. Pressing the Reset button for 5 seconds will clear the MIL(Check Engine Light)
Remember, any other codes could mean serious problems, do NOT just erase them. Let your dealer check them out if you do not know what you're doing.
Best,
Jim Hall
DO NOT Clear other codes. Go to the dealer for help.
Originally posted by Halltech Pam was sending a strip out with each system, but folks through it away thinking it was wrapping stuff.
Jim I never got this stuff, nor did I see it.....Could have this had anything to do with my troubles??
Quote:
Originally posted by Halltech
[B
When installing our system you should follow our instructions online. Disconnect the negative battery cable while installing. [/b]
ONLINE????? I followed the written instructions that came with the unit.....Since I don't have them anymore, I don't recall the "disconect the battery" part...Was this part of the instructions??? Pam went over the Idle relearn with me on the phone, and this is what she advised.
"Start the car and let idle until 176F is obtained, shut off for 30 seconds, restart, and idle for 5 minutes."
This seems to be a bit different than your post here........ And she never said a thing about disconnecting the battery....:?
Jim could this error in information supplied by Pam be the cause for the results I obtained????? As I have said in the past, I just wanted the thing to work without cutting wires as we had previously discussed.
Also, JM2C, a torque spec on the clamps would be a good thing......
__________________
WE TOOK DELIVERY OF OUR 2002 Z06
AT THE NCM ON 4-15-2002
VIN 1G1YY12S825121664
Sequence # 022392
Funny how the elbow that connects to the conical air filter and red coupler going to the MAF looks the same from either end. There aren't any markings that tell which end should go where. I have the T-1c.
Coming down the mountain from the Big Bear Bash this last week-end I got the check engine light. After pushing the option button and the fuel button I got the codes 0171 and 0174 which are lean codes. A quick call to Hallteck and Pam said come on over. After a short time she put the black sticky tape on ...did the relearn and cleared the codes. Off I went one happy customer. If you don't have the sticky tape installed you WILL have a problem at some point. Do it now and you won't its that simple. I was driving fast around some hair-pin turns and things move and unless everything is sealed good air can get in and cause that little engine to light up and the word check show up. I would also recommend that everyone have a list of codes with them so you will know what they mean. I didn't and no body else out of 574 vette owner at the get together did either. It wasn't till I got home and posted the #s on this net did somebody tell me what they stood for. Thanks net and thanks to Hallteck and Pam for the fix.
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