Whats up!
I've been thinking about this for some time now and seen the Z with the extra gap on the wheel wells bothers me a little bit. I know, I am breaking my bonestock law... but hey, all I am waiting now is for the warranty to expire! One more year...
So, I've already decided I want to lower the Z, but... I only want to lower the car by half an inch. (that will remove the silly looking gap between the well and the tire. I need to have enough clearance for my driveway as well, so)
I know there is this "without Frank mechanic" post floating around but my question is how many turns do I need to do to lower the car about half inch? One turn? Two turns? Half turn?
The lowering bolt has a locking nut on top or it just rotates freely?
To lower the front wheels I need to remove the wheels right? Is there any way to do it without removing the wheels? I do have small hands, if that helps!
I'll let the Z settle for a week before going to the dealer for an alignment.
If I understand correctly you basically want to lower your car to the maximum stock will allow without cutting the bushings. The front bolts can be tightened without removing the front wheels however... You will need to adjust the bolts from below and you will need something to push up on the fron leaf spring to relieve the tension on the bolt (unless you are Hercules). As for the number of turns keep cranking until you can't anymore. Keep count so that you do the same nunber of turns per side. There may or may not be a c-clip on the bolt head. If there is remove it.
The rears are super easy and can also be adjusted from below. Loosen the nut until the nipple of the bolt remains then tighten it down two full turns. If you're lucky there is a c-clip on the bolt that will prevent you from completely loosening it (not that it matters because there isn't any tension on the bolt anyway.)
Above all else make sure you have the correct wrench and sockets.
Here's a pic of mine lowered to max stock bolts allow without cutting bushings. Lasted about three weeks before I went with cut front bushings and a longer rear bolt - as seen in the second pic.
Originally posted by roushraven If I understand correctly you basically want to lower your car to the maximum stock will allow without cutting the bushings. The front bolts can be tightened without removing the front wheels however... You will need to adjust the bolts from below and you will need something to push up on the fron leaf spring to relieve the tension on the bolt (unless you are Hercules). As for the number of turns keep cranking until you can't anymore. Keep count so that you do the same nunber of turns per side. There may or may not be a c-clip on the bolt head. If there is remove it.
The rears are super easy and can also be adjusted from below. Loosen the nut until the nipple of the bolt remains then tighten it down two full turns. If you're lucky there is a c-clip on the bolt that will prevent you from completely loosening it (not that it matters because there isn't any tension on the bolt anyway.)
Above all else make sure you have the correct wrench and sockets.
Here's a pic of mine lowered to max stock bolts allow without cutting bushings. Lasted about three weeks before I went with cut front bushings and a longer rear bolt - as seen in the second pic.
Good luck it's an easy job.
Well, I wanted to lower the car man, but not to the bottom!!! . I just want to lower it enough to make the gap dissapear. That is probably less than 1/2 inch. In metric (which is what I am used to is about 1 centimeter.)
So, how much one turn will lower the car is basically where I am getting.
As for the front end, thanks for the advice: I'll need to relief the tension from the front leaf springs. Can it be done with jackstands and a block of wood?
Here is a pic of mine after our mod party...I haven't scraped on anything yet. We lowered to the bottom of the stock bolts in the front and cut some of the bushings in the rear.
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MTI 383 Stroker Motor. 475 rwhp 450 rwtq. Sold to Kens06.
2006 Toyota Tacoma NCM # 23186
Life is tough, but it's tougher when you're stupid...John Wayne.
Si vis pacem, para bellum.
G,
There are about 14 or 16 threads per inch on the bolts.
I would start with lowering by 6 threads at all 4 corners. Let it settle a few days and see how you like it.
Dave
I counted about 10-11 threads exposed on the fronts, with the leaf spring contacting the bushing. I suppose you could crank down some more and compress the bushing .... but man, it was hard work getting it down that far anyways. BTW ... read the FAQ and make sure you go COUNTER-clockwise on the adjusters. If you go clockwise, you'll get the opposite effect ... ala 4x4 mode.
You can go all the way in the rear. I still think the rear needs to come down and mine are at the retaining clips.
G, it's really easy to do the fronts with the wheels removed. It takes about 20 minutes if you've done it before and about 30 minutes if it's your first time.
I raised the car using my jack and placed a jackstand under the leaf up front. Slowly lower the car until the tension is taken off the leaf. This will allow you to turn the bolt in the front using a small wrench (10mm, IIRC).
In the rear, I use an impact. It's a 5 minute job if you jack right at the x-member.
I have before/after pics on my website. I lowered mine to the limit of the factory bolts front and rear. This resulted in ~3/4" lower ride height with no change in ride quality and no clearance issues.
Originally posted by corvette dave G,
There are about 14 or 16 threads per inch on the bolts.
I would start with lowering by 6 threads at all 4 corners. Let it settle a few days and see how you like it.
Dave
This weekend I'll see if I can find some time to try what you say. Thanks for the tip. I was thinking of just 3, but I might try 6.
I sure don't want to rent my car for leaf picking thats for sure. It is a Z06, not a vacuum cleaner!
Originally posted by WayneE G, it's really easy to do the fronts with the wheels removed. It takes about 20 minutes if you've done it before and about 30 minutes if it's your first time.
I raised the car using my jack and placed a jackstand under the leaf up front. Slowly lower the car until the tension is taken off the leaf. This will allow you to turn the bolt in the front using a small wrench (10mm, IIRC).
In the rear, I use an impact. It's a 5 minute job if you jack right at the x-member.
I have before/after pics on my website. I lowered mine to the limit of the factory bolts front and rear. This resulted in ~3/4" lower ride height with no change in ride quality and no clearance issues.
Good luck.
3/4 of an inch is almost 2 centimeters, I think that is too much for what I was thinking. So, I'd say that the 5-6 turns they mentioned before might do the trick.
What kind of impact drive? a 90 degree one or a big one like the tire shops have?
Thank you guys for the help! I'll make sure I turn the bolts counterclockwise, I sure don't want a Z06 all-road edition.
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