HELP: Need Clutch Advice

[tdzee]

I am finally having a number of mods installed (headers, hi flo exh, FAST intake, Vararam and tune), including a remote clutch bleeder. While I have never had the sticking clutrch problem reported by many, my fluid is black and I thought I would go ahead and replace my clutch while its apart. My 31K mi car is mostly used at DEs, a little street driving and never for drags. Based on results reported by others here, I am guessing that the mods will give me around 400 rwhp/390rwtq.

I am having no problems at all with my original clutch, so I am inclined to replace with stock pieces and save the money (seems stock is about half the price, or less, of aftermarket units). However, I can not seem to learn to heel/toe, so some of my downshifts at DEs are a bit hard on the clutch. I live 10 minutes from Rd Atlanta, so that it the track I attend mostly.

Should I just go back with a stock clutch (which I understand should inlcude the clutch disc plus a new pressure plate, throw out bearing/slave cylinder, roller pilot bearing, ) or should I go with an aftermarket set? If so, which one?

I see discussion of balancing the set, if not stock. How do I ensure this?

I don't use the high dollar brake fluid as I have had good results with the Valvoline synthetic DOT4. Can I use this fluid, or is a special fluid needed? I thought the clutch just uses brake fluid, so if OK, this simplifies maintenance.

Due to disassembly, is an alignment required after the work?

Do I need to do anything with the master cylinder if I have had no porblems? The car is almost 7 years old and I have seen discussion that the black stuff is something in the plastic disolving in the fluid.

I have spent hours searching here and see discussions of textralia, exidy, centerforce, spec, ram, and others and am lost in all the choices.

Most guys seem to have made many mods, have much higher output or are dragging. I am not currently planning on additional future, higher power mods (altho a H/C could happen). I need to decide so I can order the stuff ASAP since the work starts next week.

Any input/comments are welcome and appeciated. Thanks.

[tdzee]

Anyone ?

[PaulS]

There are many "more experienced" voices here but I can tell you....

I see some people going with the C6 Z06 clutch which I "would think" would be a better option. I have 500rwhp and went with textralia, I thought I would get some different pedal feel but it actually feels about the same as stock. I can't really recommend it as it's MUCH more expensive than going with a c5/c6 stock clutch.

You will have to do an alignment afterwards since you have to drop the rear end. Sounds like a lot but it took me (novice) about 25 minutes to unbolt the rear end and loosen up the brake lines and electrical connections. It's a good time to pick up magnetic drain plugs for the diff and tranny and change the fluids. Note you have to baby the car after replacing the fluids as the new fluids "un-burnish" the metal faces. It takes about 1000 miles to re-burnish them. Do a search there are several good articles about it in this forum.

You should also install the remote clutch bleeder at this time which will allow you to replace your clutch fluid with very little effort. Keeping fresh fluid in the clutch eliminates the clutch pedal stuck to the floor problem which many of us experience during very spirited driving. I use Dot4 synthetic brake fluid in mine.

Paul.

[tdzee]

Thanks for the feedback.

[tdzee]

Well, the speedshop I am using has sold me a Textralia. I have seen many favorable comments here on this one (as well as the others).

I have had these mod parts for 5 years now, hoping that I woud make time to do the install myself. The opportunity never presented itself, so I decided it was time to "pay the man" and get'r'done.

I can't wait to get it on track. I see from other comments that I need to observe a break in period of a few hundred miles for the clutch.

Additionally, I will change out the trans/diff fluids, but Paul (above) suggests that I need a 1000 miles to deal with the burnishing issue. I just don't drive this car much (31K in 7 years, only 1 or 2 K per year now) and I have 3 more DEs coming up this year.

I don't want to be stupid about this, but how critcal is the break-in for the new fluids?

Does it really need 1K mi for break-in, or will a few hundred miles work for both the clutch and the fluids?

Thanks for all the good help I get here ! This site rocks.

[PaulS]

Originally Posted by tdzee

snip.......

I don't want to be stupid about this, but how critcal is this for the new fluids? Does it really need 1K mi for break-in, or will a few hundred miles work for both the clutch and the fluids?

Here's a link to some well respected guys on here.... I would have to say from their comments that 300 miles is more like it unless your car is a total track car
Diff Fluid brake in

[tdzee]

Thanks Paul. I think I am good to go.

I appreciate your help.

[ZO6 AL-X]

I did a lot of research a couple of months ago when it was time for a new clutch.

Since you DE your Z, I would recommend the Textralia clutch. If you were doing mostly street driving, I would add the C6 Z clutch as an option.

Parts that should be replaced at install: Flywheel/clutch disc/pressure plate, TO bearing/slave cylinder and pilot bearing.

As far as balancing, I think that was before they went with new part numbers (when replacing with oem clutch).

Your master cylinder should be fine.

I broke mine in for 1k miles - it was my choice... and it wasn't easy.

[fcar]

"I don't want to be stupid about this, but how critcal is the break-in for the new fluids?"

"Does it really need 1K mi for break-in, or will a few hundred miles work for both the clutch and the fluids?"

I don't want to start a problem re the break-in of fluids but how do you think race cars handle fluid changes? If you were putting in a new rearend etc and, if you had the time, then a break-in period would be advisable.

Your clutch may need some break-in time, but I wouldn't worry about fluids-unless you going to some of the special light weight formulas designed to free up HP. Just my imho and good luck with your mods and trackdays

[tdzee]

Thanks for the comments.

I do plan to provide a few hundred mile break in for the clutch. However, given the limited driving I do with this car (it has never been in the rain in the near 7 years I have owned it .....yeah, I am completely anal....and I mostly just drive it at DE's), I was worried about 1000 miles for break in. I will be using standard Mobil synthetics, nothing fancy.

I hope to be back for the PCA event in Oct and am trying to get on with the BMWCCA, NASA and possibly Chin. I love Rd Atl and just can't get enough.

I will likely be driving my 02 EB Z. However, last weekend I took my new daily driver(a 2008 350Z NISMO edition). I was totally amazed at how well it handled, altho quite a bit slower car on the straights. Since you are local, perhaps I will see you at one of these events.

[ZO6 AL-X]

If you're break-in miles are at least 500, you should be fine.