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Old 04-20-2004, 07:26 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Help - Possible Misfire Issue

I noticed this morning that my car sounded motorboat-like at WOT, kind of like a bicycle with a baseball card rubbing against the rear wheel spokes. I noticed that it seemed like the drivers side exhaust pulses were sporadic.

I drove it home tonight and it sounded even worse. The check engine light began flashing whenever I got into the gas, but then went out.

I was convinced that I cracked an exhaust component or fried a cat. I recalled that yesterday, when I lifted off the gas and got the fun burble, I got a very loud burble that sounded almost like a pop. I also got code 174 (engine bank lean) and 442 (?)(I remember that it had something to do with my cats).

I popped the hood tonight and noticed that my Haltech was almost completely off the airbridge. I reattached it, tightened it and drove it. I still heard the same puttering, but not nearly as bad.

Assuming that it was the Haltech all along, how long will it take before the problem works itself out and it all goes back to "normal"? Thanks.
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Old 04-20-2004, 07:30 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I would say after you eliminate the air leak, it should return to normal immediately.
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Old 04-20-2004, 07:48 PM   #3 (permalink)
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You might have to complete a drive cycle so the PCM can relearn. What is a complete drive cycle you ask?

A complete driving cycle should perform diagnostics on all systems. A complete driving cycle can be done in under fifteen minutes.

To perform a complete GM OBD-II Driving cycle do the following:

1. Cold Start. In order to be classified as a cold start the engine coolant temperature must be below 122°F and within 11°F of the ambient air temperature at start-up. Do not leave the key on prior to the cold start or the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.

2. Idle. The engine must be run for two and a half minutes with the air conditioner on and rear defroster on. The more electrical load you can apply the better. This will test the O2 heater, Passive Air, Purge "No Flow", Misfire and if closed loop is achieved, Fuel Trim.

3. Accelerate. Turn off the air conditioner and all the other loads and apply half throttle until 55mph is reached. During this time the Misfire, Fuel Trim, and Purge Flow diagnostics will be performed.

4. Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 55 mph for 3 minutes. During this time the O2 response, air Intrusive, EGR, Purge, Misfire, and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.

5. Decelerate. Let off the accelerator pedal. Do not shift or touch the brake or clutch. It is important to let the vehicle coast along gradually slowing down to 20 mph. During this time the EGR, Purge and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.

6. Accelerate. Accelerate at 3/4 throttle until 55-60 mph.This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 3.

7. Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 55 mph for five minutes. During this time, in addition to the diagnostics performed in step 4, the catalyst monitor diagnostics will be performed. If the catalyst is marginal or the battery has been disconnected, it may take 5 complete driving cycles to determine the state of the catalyst.

8. Decelerate. This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 5. Again, don't press the clutch or brakes or shift gears.

Last edited by No Doubt : 04-20-2004 at 07:51 PM.
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Old 04-20-2004, 07:55 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
I also got code 174 (engine bank lean)
The fact your air bridge came off that is almost certainly the cause of your lean code. However, this is as good a place as any for the following:

Stuff that will cause your car to throw lean codes:

Section 1: LTerms are High On One Side Only

1) Vacuum leak: If your LTerms only go high when the car is at little to no throttle, then the chances are 99.999999% that you have a vacuum leak.

2) Exhaust leak: Typically, this will only cause one side to throw a lean code. If both sides are throwing a lean code, then you should start looking at the items on your car that control the overall fueling.

3) Bad O2 sensor: A dirty or 'blind' O2 sensor (from running leaded gas etc...) will percieve a lean condition.

4) O2 Connection: Improper power to the O2 sensor (ground or whatever) will percieve a lean condition.

5) Cutout too close to O2 sensor, or open headers: The reversion in the exhaust system exposes the O2 sensor to too much oxygen causing a lean condition to be seen.

6) Bad Injector: A faulty injector will cause the LTerms on one bank to go high. The lean condition will be intermittent and LTerms will typically be higher at lower throttle conditions.

7) Misfire, One Bank: The unburned oxygen leaving the bad cylinder causes the O2 sensor to percieve a lean condition.

8) Coolant In Combustion: If you have coolant exiting the cylinder it will cause the O2 sensor on that bank to percieve a lean condition.

9) Long Tubes: Cold conditions in combination with some long tube headers excessively cool the oxygen sensors. If the oxygen sensor cannot get up to operating temperature it will falsly report a/f to the lean side. This is typically seen during the winter at low RPM freeway driving.


Section 2: Both Banks Showing Lean - LTerms High on Both Sides

1) MAF: If your MAF is not clean or is not reporting a/f properly it will upset fueling on the lean side causing both banks to throw a lean code.

2) Fuel Pressure: If your fuel pressure is too low for your current program (plugged filter etc...) fueling will be inadequate for all operating ranges and your vehicle will run lean.

3) Big Cam: Exceptionally large cams will generate too much reversion in the exhaust (and intake) causing the fueling to be upset by both the MAF and the O2 sensors at lower RPMs

4) Big Exhaust - Long Tubes: If your exhaust is too large, or moves the O2 sensor too far away from the engine, the O2 sensors cannot get up to operating temperature and will falsely report the a/f ratio lean.

Vacuum Leak: A large vacuum leak will cause the motor to run lean on both banks.

Leaded Gas: Running leaded gas destroys the O2 sensors with a couple miles. The lead plugs the oxygens sensors making them percieve a lean condition.

Multiple Misfires (Both Banks): The excess, uncombusted air leaving the cylinders causes the O2 sensors to percieve a lean condition.

Poor Tune: A poor tune made to the MAF table, Injector Flow Rate Table, Injector Offset table, can cause your car to run lean.

Rail Voltage or Wrong Injectors: If your car is having voltage problem, the inadequate power causes the injectors to fuel improperly and late causing a lean condition and poor running.
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Old 04-20-2004, 08:34 PM   #5 (permalink)
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My car is at MTI right now for a mis fire. Mine sounds like a motor boat also. I too have a cracked header...it's been a repeat problem. It's also on the drivers side. It sounded like I had a plugged cat as well. The car ran awful. I should know something tomorrow. The only difference is...my car didn't throw any codes and when I checked the codes...there weren't any.
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Old 04-20-2004, 08:42 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by case2307
My car is at MTI right now for a mis fire. Mine sounds like a motor boat also. I too have a cracked header...it's been a repeat problem. It's also on the drivers side. It sounded like I had a plugged cat as well. The car ran awful. I should know something tomorrow. The only difference is...my car didn't throw any codes and when I checked the codes...there weren't any.
I know, Case. I read the posts in your thread, too Please let me know how it turns out. I also have the Random Tech setup, but I have TPIS headers.
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Old 04-20-2004, 09:02 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Yeah, the cracked header would certainly cause it to sound like an outboard. I think I posted in your other thread that a cracked header could cause the O2 sensor to see too much O2 which is similar to the following:

2) Exhaust leak: Typically, this will only cause one side to throw a lean code. If both sides are throwing a lean code, then you should start looking at the items on your car that control the overall fueling.

5) Cutout too close to O2 sensor, or open headers: The reversion in the exhaust system exposes the O2 sensor to too much oxygen causing a lean condition to be seen.
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Old 04-21-2004, 04:46 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I had a misfire problem on both of my Z's, usually after doing some sort of work under the hood. Both times I fixed the problem by reseating the plug wires.
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Old 04-21-2004, 07:00 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I looked under the hood this morning and noticed that there is a bung on the passenger side header (3rd pipe from the front) about 3 inches from the motor with nothing attached to it. The corresponding bung on the driver's side of the motor has a wire plugged into it. Should the passenger side bung be completely "naked"? Did some sort of stopper or connector fall off?
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Old 04-21-2004, 08:00 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Update - I spoke with someone at TPIS and the guy at Cartek that installed my headers. An air fitting is supposed to be attached to that naked passenger side bung. The TPIS guy said that there is supposed to be a bracket welded around the bung and that the air fitting is supposed to bolt into the braket using the stock 10mm bolts. The Cartek installer wasn't sure about the bracket, but was sure that the air fitting was supposed to be connected. Assuming the hose is still there dangling somewhere, I am going to visit Cartek next week to have them weld it back on and get me going again.

BTW, the TPIS guy said that I can ship them the header and they'd fix it, but who wants to have a car sitting in the shop for two weeks while that's being done. I guess Cartek will have to do it, and I'll have to pay for it.
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