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Re: How do I check wheels for trueness?
Be careful when using your car as a device to check wheel trueness. This applies to brake rotors as well.
Be aware that "runout" can be cumulative. Each componant should be checked for runout first.
All the componants starting with the upright, wheel bearing, spindel and hub need to each have minimal runout and then after assembly should have minimumal cumulative runout. A bent upright, spindel or hub and a poorly mounted wheel bearing can all contriibute to excessive cumulative runout. Note that each can be within spec but cumulatively may be out of spec.
The biggest cause for excessive runout is dirt, grease and corrosion. The hub mounting surface, the rotor hub surface, the rotor wheel surface and the wheel mounting surface must ALL be pristine and kept devoid of dirt, grease or corrosion.
If all these factors are met, THEN the wheel can be checked for runout on the car.
Any wheel that has hit a pothole, utility fixture or experienced an off course excursion can be suspect and should be checked....as well as ALL the other componants.
Instead of using a car we have a new unused hub mounted on a wall or workbench which has been checked to be true. After manually checking the wheel with a straight edge then mount the wheel and check with a dial indicator on this static hub. We also spin the wheels in a computer spin balancer and use a dial indicator to check dynamic trueness. After mounting the stems, any pressure relief device and any tire pressure transponder before mounting the tires to check the dynamic balance...then we mount the tires, recheck dynamic balance and add balance weights on the inside of the rim.
If you suspect a bent wheel contact Wheel Technologies.
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Last edited by DJWorm : 11-06-2007 at 02:14 PM.
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