I installed the blower the 1st of April and have been to Bowling Green 2 times and have had loads of fun just enjoy the new found power.
But starting about 3 weeks ago I was getting misfire's out the kazoo and major "falling on it's face" when I jumped on at about 3500 rpm. I check & check everything. I went back (ls1-edit) to a known good PCM flash. Nothing see to fix my problem.
After running Autotap for the zillionth time I see a pattern the cyl # 5 had the majority of misfires. After further examination I suspect that one of my Magnacore Plug wire was sick. So I stuck one of the stock wires back on and it clean up lots of the misfires BUT it still wasn't running right. I figured I would change plugs even thought the ones in the engine on had 35xx mile on them. About the same time in desperation I posted on a couple of forums in their Force Air sections "What plugs & what are you gapping them at"
The answer was unanimous "NGK TR6 gapped at .035". I was running NGK TR55 gapped at .050 (~stock settings). Here is the big part!! I also learned that a gap much bigger the .035 with FI with give you Spark Plug Blowout !!
Seeing how this is my first experience with FI I had never heard of Spark Blowout, that the force of air would some what Blow out or Cool the spark.
So I went & got me some TR6's (a colder plug) that come gapped @ .035 and install Sunday Morning. Hooked up AutoTap and went for a spin. Holy $hit this thing runs better then it ever did
Nowhere did the instruction or in my investigation did anyone ever mention "You Must Switch Plugs".
So the combination of plug wire #5 & the different plug gave me a major head ache BUT now I'm back and ready to install Cam (hopefully) next weekend
From my manual:
If using a stock ignition system the plug gap must be reduced to 0.035 to avoid "blowing out" the flame/spark. The use of non-platinum plugs one heat range cooler than stock is also advised.
How much horsepower will a supercharger add to my engine?
Although some manufacturers claim a specific horsepower increase, superchargers actually add horsepower as a percentage gain (percentage of an atmosphere). Assuming an engine with a compression ratio of around 9:1 running pump gas,if a supercharger gives your engine 14.7 psi of boost (another atmosphere) that will essentially double the output of your engine, everything else being equal. After adjusting for thermal and mechanical energy transfer, if an efficient centrifugal supercharger is generating 7.5 psi (approx. 1/2 an atmosphere), you will see around a 35-40% gain in horsepower and torque at your non-supercharged maximum horsepower rpm. If detonation forces you to use an ignition/timing retard system, you will of course see less of a gain because backing off several degrees of timing will greatly reduce an engine's power output. At higher boost levels, the heat generated by compressing air will produce diminishing returns as the boost is increased, although the use of intercooling or racing fuel can avoid this scenario of diminishing returns. Assuming the use of intercooling to run higher boost levels while maintaining reliability, a 100% increase can generally be achieved at around 17 psi on an engine with 9:1 compression running pump gas.
Are ProCharger systems 50 state legal?
Most ProCharger systems are 50 state legal. For information on the regulatory status of a specific ProCharger system, please consult the price list which is supplied with every product literature mailing.
What is detonation, and how can it be controlled?
Detonation, or engine knock, occurs simply when fuel pre-ignites before the piston reaches scheduled spark ignition. This means that a powerful explosion is trying to expand a cylinder chamber that is shrinking in size, attempting to reverse the direction of the piston and the engine. When detonation occurs, the internal pneumatic forces can actually exceed 10x the normal forces acting upon a properly operating high performance engine. Detonation is generally caused by excessive heat, excessive cylinder pressure, improper ignition timing, inadequate fuel octane or a combination of these. Of the previous, excessive heat is usually the culprit. As an engine is modified to generate more power, additional heat is produced. Today's pump gas will only tolerate a finite amount of heat before it pre-ignites and causes detonation. Although forced induction engines usually produce far less heat than comparable naturally aspirated high compression engines, the cylinder temperatures in intercooled engines are radically cooler yet. It is rarely boost that causes detonation, just unnecessary heat. An intercooler is such a natural solution for forced induction, that in almost every sophisticated application, intercooling is part of the package.
For engines that are experiencing detonation problems, the primary options are the use of ignition/timing retard systems, higher octane fuel, or intercooling. While ignition retard systems can be helpful in certain situations, they can also greatly reduce the horsepower output of an engine, as any reduction in timing will reduce horsepower. And while a reduction in timing can save a motor from detonation, the excessive heat which was causing the detonation is still present. Intercooling, on the other hand, actually removes the heat which causes detonation, and allows higher boost levels to be safely run with full timing on pump gas. This produces the maximum benefit in terms of both horsepower gains and engine protection, without any additional maintenance or hassle.
Originally posted by FRC Tom From my manual:
If using a stock ignition system the plug gap must be reduced to 0.035 to avoid "blowing out" the flame/spark. The use of non-platinum plugs one heat range cooler than stock is also advised.
Sorry Tom, I forgot to ask the "SUPER 'Know-It-All' MOD" .. J/K
I just re-check the instructtions that came with the Magnason & no reference to PLUGS
Oh, well I went 1 heat range cooler, gapped at .035
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You may need to update your tire too.
Linear Mode
