Car made 334whp with 90k miles, all stock on a Dynojet... Even though it was on a different dyno this time, +65whp give or take is
Sounds like I need to read up on this. It's fascinating to me that 16% of the horsepower is lost between the flywheel and the tires! Gosh, where does it all go, and what kind of specially-machined unobtanium swap-out parts can I buy to fix it?
It kind of reminds me of riding a fixed-gear bicycle. The chainring on the pedals is directly connected to a (smaller) cogset on the rear wheel, and both are fixed in place. So when you pedal, the only energy you lose is in the flex of the chain! I can accelerate a lot faster on a fixie, than on my mountain bike with its freewheels and rear derailler jockey wheels and all that jazz that eat up precious bits of pedal power.
In terms of velocity however, I can go a lot faster on my mtb because I have a bazillion gears!
Sounds like I need to read up on this. It's fascinating to me that 16% of the horsepower is lost between the flywheel and the tires! Gosh, where does it all go, and what kind of specially-machined unobtanium swap-out parts can I buy to fix it?
It kind of reminds me of riding a fixed-gear bicycle. The chainring on the pedals is directly connected to a (smaller) cogset on the rear wheel, and both are fixed in place. So when you pedal, the only energy you lose is in the flex of the chain! I can accelerate a lot faster on a fixie, than on my mountain bike with its freewheels and rear derailler jockey wheels and all that jazz that eat up precious bits of pedal power.
In terms of velocity however, I can go a lot faster on my mtb because I have a bazillion gears!
With automatic trannies, the drive train loss is closer to 20%
Loss across the drivetrain with a manual trannie is like 11% and 15% for a A4 trannie
Want to bloat the numbers ?
Before - to make it look worse then it was just some examples
1. increase tire pressures so there is slip
2. Do not strap car down very well to cause slip
3. Have no weather station or elevation factors.
4. Use a long idle process to get air/fuel/oil, etc hot and then hammer G pedal so PCM does not have time to adapt.
5. Use E10 or lower grade gas.
6. get off G pedal before peak RPMs
7. slightly ride the brake pedal during run.
8. If auto trannie use overdrive.
9. have one sparkplug wire not firmly on 1 plug
10. do not use comp mode for traction control
11 and the real Ahole dyno tuner will slip a tune in with reduced timing, increase knock or misfire and reduce fuel flow
To make the numbers look really, really really good, reverse the above and
1. put a weather station of dyno in engine bay so correction numbers adds 50 HP
2. remove voltage from PCM to force it into a relearn state right before the run
3. Use a 2700 lb dyno drum and factor C/D as if car weighed the same
4. fudge the correction numbers
5. Have dyno dude outright lie as to the results and you swear to it.
6 use a tune that would not be real world, high timing, turn off knock and misfire circuits, lock torque converter, etc
That's great that it's running strong. But those #'s are high. My o4Z was all stock 18,000 mls w/ the following: Dynatech headers, x pipe, high flow cats, Norris tune, all Amsoil fluids, V-Ram CAI, stock mufflers and she pulled 376 hp two different days and dyno's. Norris said it was one of the higher stock Z's he's seen. Others will chime in but I have always read stockers from 340's to 370's.
Great numbers! It's always good to see what your car is actually putting down. I just had my 01 on the dyno and it put down 367.9rwhp and 376ft/lbs with just a carbon fiber air bridge, aluminum twin intake and Magnaflow axle back exhaust.
You can use these numbers to figure ROUGHLY from flywheel to rear wheel hp.
Minus 15-16% for a manual tranny
Minus 20-21% for an Automatic
__________________
2003 Z06 - 1.473 sixty foot , 383 Stroker NA, 390 Gear. Pete Incaudo Street Cam, Full interior, stock suspension, thru stock mufflers. All out of the box parts, no porting or tricks. 10.66 @ 129mph
2000 Silverado, Best 1.53 sixty, 402 Stroker NA, 410 gears, Street cam, heads and Fast by Pete Incaudo 11.14 ET @ 120 mph
Before - to make it look worse then it was just some examples
1. increase tire pressures so there is slip
2. Do not strap car down very well to cause slip
3. Have no weather station or elevation factors.
4. Use a long idle process to get air/fuel/oil, etc hot and then hammer G pedal so PCM does not have time to adapt.
5. Use E10 or lower grade gas.
6. get off G pedal before peak RPMs
7. slightly ride the brake pedal during run.
8. If auto trannie use overdrive.
9. have one sparkplug wire not firmly on 1 plug
10. do not use comp mode for traction control
11 and the real Ahole dyno tuner will slip a tune in with reduced timing, increase knock or misfire and reduce fuel flow
To make the numbers look really, really really good, reverse the above and
1. put a weather station of dyno in engine bay so correction numbers adds 50 HP
2. remove voltage from PCM to force it into a relearn state right before the run
3. Use a 2700 lb dyno drum and factor C/D as if car weighed the same
4. fudge the correction numbers
5. Have dyno dude outright lie as to the results and you swear to it.
6 use a tune that would not be real world, high timing, turn off knock and misfire circuits, lock torque converter, etc
valid points, but there is no gloating my numbers, just posting the results. as I said in the original post, I was shocked at the "numbers" but I know that only trap speed means anything.
Quote:
Originally Posted by seamus2154
That's great that it's running strong. But those #'s are high. My o4Z was all stock 18,000 mls w/ the following: Dynatech headers, x pipe, high flow cats, Norris tune, all Amsoil fluids, V-Ram CAI, stock mufflers and she pulled 376 hp two different days and dyno's. Norris said it was one of the higher stock Z's he's seen. Others will chime in but I have always read stockers from 340's to 370's.
Quote:
Originally Posted by blackg5
Car made 334whp with 90k miles, all stock on a Dynojet... Even though it was on a different dyno this time, +65whp give or take is
A stock Z making 370 is hard to believe, but so is 400 with just intake, exhaust, and tune. Dynos are TUNING TOOLS, not horsepower gauges. As long as the car runs well, who cares what the dyno sheet says? I'd rather make 350whp and run 119mph than make 400whp and trap 116...
Doesn't say if the numbers are corrected to SAE or ???. Could be a big difference.
I'm not sure :doh:
but I do know a 2012 Mustang GT was dynoed the same day, same mods --> headers/hfc/catback/intake/tune and made 421whp.. (he wouldn't wanna see the Z tho )
Quote:
Originally Posted by hugoagogo
lotta miles, go dog go..
yeeeeaaa buddy! 20k+ since last June when he got the exhaust on and tune..
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