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Old 10-11-2003, 11:46 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Lowering a Z06

The instructions on this web site tells you to back off the bolts. Is this the best way and/or the only way to lower a Z06. If so about how much will the car come down. I just put 18's and 19's motorsport wheels on the car and want to lower it about an inch.

Thanks again for any advise from you season vetts ( get it VETTS)

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Old 10-11-2003, 12:14 PM   #2 (permalink)
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That is how the suspension is built so if you want to change its height you do the bolts.
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Old 10-11-2003, 12:28 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by 911response
The instructions on this web site tells you to back off the bolts. Is this the best way and/or the only way to lower a Z06.
As mentioned above, it's the way it was designed by GM. So while it may not be the only way, it is arguably the best.

Quote:
Originally posted by 911response
If so about how much will the car come down. I just put 18's and 19's motorsport wheels on the car and want to lower it about an inch.
The car will only come down a little more than 1/2" on the stock bolts. You can get it lower with longer rear bolts, and by cutting the bushing on the bottom of the front bolts. However, common wisdom suggests you should not do this. The suspension travel is limited by the lowered bolts. There is some risk of bottoming out on large suspension excursions, which can result in abrupt loss of control, even if you stay within the factory limits.

As for your rims, it's really the outside diameter of the TIRES that matters. Do the math for the tires/rims you're using, compare them to the diameters of the OEM tires/rims. If you're not too much larger in diameter, you shouldn't have a problem. Much more than about 1/2" larger, you may have trouble.
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Old 10-11-2003, 01:35 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Raise the back nuts until you have about two threads left. Move the front ones up as far as you can. It will drop the car between 1/2 to 5/8", which is enough to see and feel. You will need to get the car realigned. Best and cheapest place is usually a GM dealer for about $50.00. You might want to measure from the top of the wheel opening to the ground before you start and after you finish. You will need to drive the car a bit before it settles after the adjustments. Put a couple of hundred miles on it before you have it realigned. Good luck.
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Old 10-11-2003, 01:42 PM   #5 (permalink)
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And, oh yeah... you can't do the fronts with a load on the suspension.

The big rubber bushings at the bottom need to turn, and they can't if the spring is bearing on them.

The front has got to be in the air.
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Old 10-11-2003, 03:11 PM   #6 (permalink)
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How far do the front bolts back out?? will they come out if I back out to far??

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Old 10-11-2003, 08:45 PM   #7 (permalink)
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You need to run the front bolts in, rear bolts out. No worries about removing the front bolts.

By using the methods mentioned above (stock fronts all the way in, rears 2 threads showing), my '03 dropped 3/4" all the way around.
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Old 10-11-2003, 09:13 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I think it all depends on how much you want to lower it. If you what it this low you might have to do a little more work.

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Old 10-11-2003, 10:06 PM   #9 (permalink)
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If the stock bolts do not lower it enough for you, I can send you the link and how to get it down a "little more".
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Old 10-11-2003, 10:41 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by Baron
If the stock bolts do not lower it enough for you, I can send you the link and how to get it down a "little more".


Dude that's low! Those jaywalking animals won't have a chance.
Your car ROCKS!
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Old 10-11-2003, 10:57 PM   #11 (permalink)
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The spring bolts are the only way to accomplish a modest lowering of a C5.

There are two reasons to lower a Z06.

1) For looks. In that case, use the bolts to their fullest extent...and avoid running fast over pot holes or rough roads.

2) For a slight improvement in handling. In that case, you can lower up to 1/2-in. per end without having trouble with the car bottoming over pot holes or during aggressive driving on rough roads. The minute the suspension bottoms, the rate goes up drastically and handing deteriorates quickly. You can lower up to 3/4 in per end if you trim the bump stops 1/4 in.
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Old 10-11-2003, 10:58 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Baron-

I lowered mine pretty much the same way you did (minus the rears - I like the ass in the air )

My Question is how the hell do you drive around now - esp with that front lip - I scrape and rub that plastic air dam under the front everytime I go over a dip in the road, up a ramp, etc etc. I would love to get the front lip you have - but Id bust it off in a second - esp during autocross

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Old 10-12-2003, 05:39 AM   #13 (permalink)
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[quote]Originally posted by spytech
[b]Baron-

I lowered mine pretty much the same way you did (minus the rears - I like the ass in the air )

My Question is how the hell do you drive around now - esp with that front lip - I scrape and rub that plastic air dam under the front everytime I go over a dip in the road, up a ramp, etc etc. I would love to get the front lip you have - but Id bust it off in a second - esp during autocross

I thought the same thing. The ACI air splitter actually has 1 inch more ground clearance than the stock plastic air dam. When you install the splitter, you leave the stock center piece and remove the two plastic side pieces. It scrapes less now than it did with all the stock pieces. And the roads around here are terrible.
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