Ive taken alot of time and searched through a bunch of threads on the lowering topic. I want to slam my z at least 1.5" and dont think Im going to be able to get that look by just adjusting the bolts so looks like Im going to have to go the new rear bolts and cut the front bushings route. My two questions are:
1) Exactly how difficult is this? Im pretty competent with this type stuff but Im no expert by any means. Im worried that Im gonna get halfway through it and find out its going to be way over my head. And since I live in a condo Im going to be going at this in a parking lot with basic tools. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
2) When I roll into Home Depot for the rear bolts what exaclty am I looking for?
I was hung up on getting the proper bolts also, then I just decided to cut the bushings on the rear also instead of looking for new bolts. The ride quality is unafected by cutting the bushings as far as I can tell. My car is probably somewhere between 1" and 1-1/2" lower than stock, not slammed, but it looks "right" to me now.
There are two bushings on the rear setup, one at the top of each bolt and one at the bottom. I decided to only cut the bottom bushing 2/3 off. With the front bushings cut off completely and the front lowered almost as far as it can go, the rear still has a couple of threads of adjustment left to go, so I see no need to cut the top bushings on the rear. You could always go back and cut them if need be... the back is easy to get apart.
The front is more difficult to get apart. Plan to separate the lower ball joint in order to get the lower control arms low enough to get the springs out. You'll need to do this on both sides. Just make sure you've got all the right tools before you tear it apart and you should be OK.
Don't drive too far without getting an alignment! I set the toe after I was done lowering... the front end toes out ALOT as you lower the car, and this will scrub the inside off your fronts pretty quick. Rear toe and camber are also changed.
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'02 EB/MR Z
Halltech Stngr, LGM Pro LTs, Stock Tune, 4 18" R2's on OEM Rears
11.86 @ 118, 1.82 60' (F1's), best 60' 1.80 (R2's)
80% Track, 20% Driver, 100% Z
Just had my '03 lowered 1". I think it is enough - looks good and if you still want to be able to exit and enter parking lots, etc. without scraping the lower front end all the time - then that's all you want - at least for the roads around here.
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03 Z06 - Callaway Honker intake, LG Pro LT Headers, X-pipe, Hiflo Cats, Corsa Indy's - 404 rwhp
Before you cut those bushings, look into Hardbar's front lowering bushings. Those bushings you’re about to cut CAN NOT be purchased without purchasing the whole front spring assembly. The salvage yards also know this thus they also will not sell you the bushings alone. If you really want the front lower than you can get without cutting the bushings consider the Hardbar bushings. I bought a set due to the fact that I sheared one of the stock bushing. If you do purchase the Hardbar bushings I would be interested in buying your stock bushings. PM me if interested.
thanks for the replies. on a scale of 1 to 10 of difficulty, (1 being installing a shifter, 10 being rebuilding a motor) where does cutting the bushings and replacing the bolts rate?
danksman: how did you lower a full 1"? was that on stock bolts?
it l go: that is gorgeous! how did you achieve that?
thanks for the replies. on a scale of 1 to 10 of difficulty, (1 being installing a shifter, 10 being rebuilding a motor) where does cutting the bushings and replacing the bolts rate?
danksman: how did you lower a full 1"? was that on stock bolts?
it l go: that is gorgeous! how did you achieve that?
Yeah that pic by ItLGO does look gorgeous. Problem is, you WILL scrape EVERYWHERE with it that low. I scrape and Im only down 5 turns front and rear.
If you DO find the write up on here, make sure you place the jacks in the right places on the front leaf, or youll have to HE MAN the lowering bolts in the front, an run the risk of stripping them out. I consider my self a competent shady tree mechanic and I made this mistake, luckily I didnt strip the bolts to the point that theyre unusable.
I highly recommend against slamming your vette, you can see how low mine is in my gallery, my LT's have marks on them already. I couldnt imagine how horrible they would look if I was any lower.
Also if you watched your vid that came with the car, even the engineers recommend 5-6 turns max for the track, youll get some wanted negative camber as well. I wouldnt go lower than that.
I actually raised mine. When I bought the car it was about 1.25 with cut rear bushings. Rode great....but the front end was TORE UP. I decided to get new rear bushings and just have it lowered as far as the stock bolts will go. Looks good, not slammed...but much easier on that LONG front end. I do miss the REAL LOW look.
on a scale of 1 to 10 of difficulty, (1 being installing a shifter, 10 being rebuilding a motor) where does cutting the bushings and replacing the bolts rate?
Maybe a 2, if you consider a shifter swap a 1...
My car is pretty slammed:
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George B.
* '08 JSB Z06 11.4 @ 126 on EMTs, 481/454 SAE #s--some bolt-ons...
* '90 ZR-1 SGC built 368ci 'Factory Black Motor' (11.0 @ 130.2 & 11.2 @ 132.4) w/ the 368 (421ci Stroker coming!)--sprayed 120 shot.. 448 RWHP on motor, 560+ RWHP on the spray (SAE #'s)
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