Tools required to change brake pads?

[Lambinator]

I'm heading to Gingerman this weekend for a track day. From what I've been told by my contacts that do testing there for GM, the Z06 goes through brake pads fairly quickly because there's not much cooldown time.

So, I'm planning to take a spare set of pads. Assuming the car is jacked up and the tires are off, what tools are required to replace the pads on the Z06?. Do I need to remove the calipers or do the pads just clip in? I'm familiar with "normal" pad replacement, but I've never done the Vette.

Thanks,
Todd

[mgarfias]

Shit man, I can't remember. And I don't have my service manuals with me.

Sorry

[gbjerke]

It's a piece of cake. Remove the lower bolt from the caliper and flip the caliper up, swap pads and rebolt. I think it's an 18mm.
You will also need a monster channel lock or a (oops, brain fart here)...can't think of the tool name to squeeze the plungers back in order to get the new pads in there. 5 minutes or so for each wheel once tire is off.

[BrianK]

Never been to Gingerman, eh? Oh boy, are you going to have fun!

It will be interesting to hear what those stock pads are capable of..

I strongly suggest that you flush your brake fluid before you hit that track. The Ford Heavy Duty Dot 3 fluid available from any Ford dealer is great stuff. Unless things have recently changed, that is the best regular fluid available.

The race-specific fluids are better, but their boiling point quickly drops. I suggest you flush the fluid the night before the event.

Have fun!

[N4C5S]

I suggest you go to the auto parts store and buy the little device to properly squeeze the piston back in.

It looks like a brake pad with a screw attached that you turn.

This ensures that the piston is pushed back evenly with no damage to the seal, which is very common with channel locks or c-clamp (if you use this method, you can also crack the aluminum piston)

Go buy the $10 tool and be worry free....or worse, dead at the track with a broken brake piston...

I can post a pic if you want one......

JC

[Lambinator]

I've been to Gingerman, but not in a production car.

Heinricy told me today that I should get some Hawk HP+ pads, so I got them on order and will have them Friday. Looks like the stock pads won't get the workout after all.

JC I'll look into the piston pusher thingamajig. Thanks.

[Silver Bullet]

You might want to install speed bleeders to make it a easy job to bled the brakes to get pistons back in.

[ZO SIC]

Do you folks have the part number for the Russell Speed Bleeders for the Z06? I'd assume they are the same as the normal C5 since they use the same calipers, just different colored calipers, right?

I've already got the DRM front brake duct kits, Motul fluid and Russell SS brake lines ready to go on...

[DJWorm]

Make sure you also bleed out the ABS system when you exchange fluid. If you don't the new racing fluid will be "contaminated" when the ABS system is activated. At the very least it will downgrade your racing fluid. Some fluids are not compatable with each other.

You must use a Tech II computer/analyser to activate and bleed the ABS system.

KD Tools makes a couple different brake piston compressors.

You may also want to look into better caliper pistons. The stock ones are aluminum. Doug Rippie sells stainless steel ones which have better heat transfer capabilities, however they are heavier. If weight is a factor, another option is custom titanium pistons

[Silver Bullet]

Don't worry about a full bleeding. The great thing about motul is it mixes well so just get as much as you can out and just always refill with motul.

[DJWorm]

.... If your spending the money for racing brake fluid, presumably for better performance with a higher boiling point; why would you install it half assed and degrade its capabilities by allowing it to mix with standard fluid. If its a case of spending the extra money and time to do it right why not just use tap water in your brake system?! Thats real cheap, easy and less time consuming.

My point will be illustrated quite bruttally when he depresses his brake pedal at the end of a straight after 10 hot laps and finds no pedal. That is one of the most sickening feelings in the world. Worse yet is when he fails to negotiate the corner and makes an off road excursion and shunts the Armco. How much time, money and anguish will that cost, let alone the potential for injury to himself and others?

Better yet if your going to do it half assed don't bother with the racing fluids and just stay on the street.

On a positive note it only takes about 5 minutes to do the ABS bleed with the Tech II at the Chevy Dealer or at the place that is changing the fluid for you. Why not do it correctly the first time? Just make sure they have a Tech II and know what they are doing.

One further note: I always do a 4 wheel bleed before each event, after warming the brakes up and after each event. I try to bleed between runs if I have time, adding fluid as necessary.

[DJWorm]

Castrol SRF Racing, exceeds DOT 3/4, $70.00/liter
Can be mixed with others but not recommended.
Corrosive to some systems.

AP600, exceeds Dot 3/4/5, $18.99/17 0z
Can not be mixed, Polyalkylene Glycol Ester based
Corrosive to Magnesium

AP550, DOT 4, $11.99/17 oz.
Synthetic, Can be mixed

AP5.1, DOT 3,

Motul RBF600, DOT4, $12.99/500ml
Can not be mixed, absorbs moisture,
must be changed after each event

Motul 5.1, DOT 3, $9.75/500ml
Can be mixed with Synthetic DOT 3/4/5 only
Can not be mixed with Silicon based BF

Team Neo, exceeds DOT 5,
NASCAR Synthetic, can not be mixed

Valvoline Syn Power, DOT 3/4 $6.00/12 oz.
Synthetic, Compatible with conventional fluids


Fluid/Dry Boiling Point(F)/Wet Boiling Point (F)

Team Neo / 610/ -
Castrol SRF / 572/518
AP 600 / 572/475
Motul 600 / 593/420
AP 550 / 551/284
AP 5.1 / 525/300
Motul 5.1 / - /365
Valvoline Syn/ 502/343

Surprisingly the off the shelf Valvoline Syn Power is not a bad fluid. I use it in my Suburban and tow vehicle. I chose the AP 600 for Pro Solo AutoX because of its relatively high boiling point both Wet AND Dry and that it is compatable with the Z06 system. I was thinking of going initially with Castrol SRF but was told that it would be too corrosive in the Z06 and that I would be replacing the MasterCylinder and ABS in one season.

[N4C5S]

Great info DJ, thanks!

JC