NYCHASM....
OK, I'll bite.... Folks are trying to help the guy out ...
Diametric opposition, criss/cross, and star all convey the same underlying engineering principle of proper torque application that your shade tree mechanic, attempting to torque his lugs should live by. Do you disagree with this?
Congratulations on your astute observations of geometry. I am sure your post stopped karadog dead in his tracks before he took my misguided advice, went out and drilled a 6th lug into his car so he could torque diametrically opposed.
You asked for it .
You got it. Let's not start a pissing contest on of all things--lug torque? That is not my intent. Charlie-- Here is beer for you if we ever hook up...
I'll buy the first round and we'll have a laugh about it!
Like you said... some folks out here have raced forever (not me), other have been been mechanics who can feel torque accurately(not me), and other are degreed engineers (me) who don't need to consult a service manual to learn how to put on a wheel.
(Unrelated--- Many years ago, I once had the audacity to challenge a seasoned mechanic on his "hand torque" on my car. True to his word the SOB was dead balls accurate to 100# when I made him get the TW. That day-- I learned never to ruffle another mans lug nuts).
Not sure who wrote your manual... I sure hope it was not the guy at GM who designed the rings on an 01Z06, or the trunk lids that don't pop open on the 02... or the rotors that warp
....(perhaps, not the sharpest tools in the GM shed...) My calculations show the number at 100#. Who cares.... !!!! The service manual procedure you quote (110#) should work fine also, I have not read it in detail..... But just remember-- rotors are cracking/warping all over the place. I am NOT implying this is the root cause, but I will say that someone that does not torque wheel lugs in opposition and with consistent force could be more vulnerable to rotor warpage. I consider myself lucky that mine do not have a crack or warpage at 6K, and my 01 made it 10K. Like motor oil choices, lots of "right ways" to do it safely....
Bottom line is 100 +/- 15 is safe on a warm lug. Stepping the torque is good practice, not bad. Application of the torque should "strive for" (is that better?)
-- diametric opposition.
Preloading... [Not something Joe street driver needs to be concerned with... ] Wheel lugs on the track get very hot. When a bolt gets hot it expands a little. That elongation lowers the torque applied cold, and held by the friction of the nut threads.
On a hot day at the track (down south anyway) lugs temps will burn your hand. Do I want 70# hot? No, I want 100#.
Now I could care less what the books say.... But before I track my car, I warm my lugs to about 200F and I torque to 100#. Last week I ditched the OEM 10.9 lugs and installed ARP 190kpsi lugs. I did that for several reasons, but one of them was that I examined a sheered wheel lug from a BMW M3 on the track that spun out in front of me a few weeks before on the track. It is my opinion that that lug failed due to stress induced by insufficient torque. The tech inspections that day did NOT check torque, as I had seen them do in the past. No way to know for sure what happened to that poor guy. Stronger lugs can carry more applied torque. Since I am stressing the car more than typical, I feel better about it.
FYI... The "preloading" I do results in a cool down torque of about 130-140. No big deal... (It took me over 200# to break free those nasty star bolts last week pulling the wheel bearings to replace my lugs ;-( ) On the street, I run about 100# cold.
This all said, I am not an experienced racer. For all I know they do not consider hot and cold torque. Frankly... I could care less if they do or not. I know I am doing right thing for ME based on my measurements, observations, and engineering, and my wheels are not falling off...
To each his own... torque to whatever makes you comfortable.
Be safe bro... we're all on the same team here.
Not good.
Although pure titanium does spook me a little as my memory recalls, it is more susceptible to fatigue stress failure (cycles of stress below yield stress) than conventional high grade steel. Hopefully, they are made of an alloy of titanium with better fatigue properties and high tensile strength to provide greater margin than OEM. 
anybody here. Hell, you racer guys sure know a lot more than me but...please don't "Quote" stuff from the service manual when it just isn't in there.
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