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Old 12-10-2004, 11:18 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Transport of Z06

I just purchased a 2004 Z06 with 2400 miles on it. I have to transport it about 1,000 miles and want to know how best to secure the vehicle to the trailer. Are there openings on the frame or cross members to which i can secure the straps or chains. I got the car at a great price. It is my first Z06, but have had many other vetts in the past.
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Old 12-10-2004, 01:56 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Have you considered driving it?

If you bought it out of state, buy a 1 way ticket there and drive that sucker home! Buddy of mine in NC bought a car in TX and got it home the same way.

Much cheaper and faster than driving out with a truck/trailer or having a shipping company handle it.
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Old 12-10-2004, 02:30 PM   #3 (permalink)
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One of the racers will likely have some suggestions before too long. Enjoy that car!
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Old 12-10-2004, 02:31 PM   #4 (permalink)
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There are "shipping slots" in the frame rails just aft of the front tire and forward of the rear tire. You can use a "T" hook (best) or a "J" hook to secure the straps.

You can buy the "T" hooks from AW Direct

Part # PD-1

www.awdirect.com

DO NOT attatch any straps to the suspension pieces.

BE SURE to criss-cross the straps Rt to Lt

The major problems you will have depending on type of trailer and amount of lowering is approach angle clearance. To combat this:

1. After securing & hitching trailer to tow vehicle, use the trailer tongue jack to jack the front of the trailer up as far as possible.

2. Use the longest ramps you have and if necessary make ramp step/extensions from 2x12's. ie angle the 2x12 approach at 45 degrees and place rear end under the ramp.

3. If on an open trailer, you may not be able to open the doors due to the femders or tires. Most left side fenders will swing away. You may need those 2x12 now to place on the trailer and drive the rear wheels onto to give you more elevation for the door to open.

4. The car needs to be loaded with the front in the front and as far forward as possible. However, some trailers will have a front 4" lip barrier. The airdam will deflect and pass over this but the side wings of the airdam will be ripped off when backing the car off the trailer. You can either remove the side airdams (preferable) or be careful an not pull the car as far forward to engage the airdam.

5. We drive the car on as far as possible,
-Apply the EBrake and strap down the front as tight as possible.
- Let off the EBrake
- Strap the rear down as tight as possible
- Reapply the Ebrake
- Place car in Neutral

6. DO NOT tow the car while IN GEAR.
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Last edited by DJWorm : 12-10-2004 at 02:39 PM.
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Old 12-10-2004, 03:01 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Congratulations and welcome to
Take whatever DJWorm says to the bank.
Are there still roads in Montana where the speed limit is "Reasonable and Prudent"?
Enjoy the ride!
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Old 12-10-2004, 03:10 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I have transported mine to and from the Silver State Race in
NV several times. I use Ratchet straps and go through each wheel. The ratchet straps have D Rings and clasped hooks that attach to rings in the trailer. Simply tightening those so the car can't move forward or backward secures it very well.
I have had no problems what so ever.

I hope that helps?

Regards,

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Old 12-10-2004, 07:28 PM   #7 (permalink)
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As DJ said, the T-hooks installed into the shipping holes in the frame are the most secure way. Have trailered (enclosed) thousands of miles over the past two seasons with no problems.

Heed is warning (above all) of having the car in neutral!!!
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Old 12-11-2004, 10:03 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I have an open air trailer and have been towing my car for two years now using the method DJ describes above with no issues.
To help you better visualize the strap layout, when done and looking from bird's eye view, the straps will look sort of like:
X
X

The strap that t-hooks into the hole in the frame behind the LF wheel will go forward and across under the car to the RF D-ring of the trailer. The strap that t-hooks into the hole in the frame behind the RF wheel will go forward and across under the car to the LF D-ring of the trailer. The strap that t-hooks into the hole in the frame in front of the LR wheel will go backward and across under the car to the RR D-ring of the trailer. The strap that t-hooks into the hole in the frame behind the LR wheel will go backward and across under the car to the LR D-ring of the trailer.
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Old 12-12-2004, 05:57 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Thanks to all

Since i am new to this site and a new Z06 owner it is comforting to see how many people are willing to help!! I want to thank you all and will keep you informed as to how I do. Cant wait till the spring comes and i can stretch her legs a bit. Yes Montana has a speed limit now, 75 mph. When there was non it was "prudent" speed. I would suppose with a Z06 prudent would be somewhere around a 100.

Thanks again to all and ahve a safe and enjoyable holiday.
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Old 12-12-2004, 06:09 PM   #10 (permalink)
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DJ, I have a question on

6. DO NOT tow the car while IN GEAR.

With the E Brake on the C5 being notoriously weak, wouldn't be safer to tow it in first or reverse ?

.
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Old 12-12-2004, 06:21 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Wecome hjck, enjoy your new Z.
I understand why you don't want to put it on our roads right now. When they sand the roads up here sometimes its more like gravel.
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Old 12-12-2004, 07:05 PM   #12 (permalink)
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IT L GO,

No, the E Brake is just a secondary safety redundency. You are relying on the straps and hooks to secure the car on the trailer.

I have actually seen race cars fall off the trailer leaving the race track a number of times, both from open or closed trailers. (These were either improperly secured or not at all!!)

The E Brake would prevent the car from coming off the trailer in the event of a strap, hook or D Ring failure .......or from rolling far if it did.

The reason you do not want to tow while in gear is that the constant josteling, bumping, accel and decel will put undue stress on the drive train if left in gear. An unlubricated drive train, I might add. Even if straped down tightly with the E brake ON, the drive train will still get movement.
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Old 12-12-2004, 08:34 PM   #13 (permalink)
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i bough those t hooks from aw direct..
they are great.. very strong..
i have never had a problem.
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Old 12-12-2004, 08:39 PM   #14 (permalink)
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For those who tow you will be surprised how well wheel chocks help to keep a car locked in position. I trailer to the track all the time (not a Z) and the chocks are the only way to go. When I do this I don't even have to crank down the straps. DJ can you loop soft axle straps though the front framemember loops (about 1" square bar" around by the air intake to winch your Z up on the trailer?
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Old 12-12-2004, 09:10 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IT L GO
With the E Brake on the C5 being notoriously weak, wouldn't be safer to tow it in first or reverse ?
I have towed mine over 30k miles in the last two years, all of it without the car in gear based on the same reasoning DJ describes above. I have very good straps that are more than adequate to secure the car. As I have an open air trailer, I can really see how much the car bounces around on the trailer, and DJ isn't exaggerating. The car bounces around a lot! I'd much rather not have it in gear jerking the drive train the whole time.
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