The driver side UCA bush on the rear is noticably different in how it sits in the arm. Looks like it's shifting/backing out by about 1/8 to 3/16 ths. All the others have the "big" end flush up against the hole in the arm.
Is this the first sign b4 the bushing goes full bad?
My experience is that the lower's do move sooner, more than the uppers. But... I have seen that type of problem on other T1 cars.
You might try taking the upper a-arm off (or at least unbolting it from the frame) repositioning the bushing and see if it stays there for awhile, before you go straight to replacement.
And, as you likely suspect, that type of movement will really impact your alignment. Caster will go up and I suspect, but don't know for sure, that camber will go up and thus toe will go in.
Not an uncommon problem, especially with hard AutoX use. Usually as Braad said the lowers take more of a beating.
As Brad said you can try to reposition them and it might work on a street or high speed track car. However I have found the best solution is to replace them once they have shifted.
- T1 bushings are a harder Dur rubber but you have to buy a whole new A-Arm to get them
- VB&P are Poly-Graphite which are harder yet. (DO NOT get Poly Urethane bushings)
- The best solution if the class rules allow are custom Delrin bushings.
Remeber SCCA rules such as in SM2 that allow the Delrin bushings still state that the ratio of metal/composite material in the bushings can not increase . All 3 of the above solutions comply with that rule
Eric Strelnicks BTW replaced his 3 times in the 1st 10,000 miles.
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Not an uncommon problem, especially with hard AutoX use. Usually as Braad said the lowers take more of a beating.
As Brad said you can try to reposition them and it might work on a street or high speed track car. However I have found the best solution is to replace them once they have shifted.
- T1 bushings are a harder Dur rubber but you have to buy a whole new A-Arm to get them
- VB&P are Poly-Graphite which are harder yet. (DO NOT get Poly Urethane bushings)
- The best solution if the class rules allow are custom Delrin bushings.
Remeber SCCA rules such as in SM2 that allow the Delrin bushings still state that the ratio of metal/composite material in the bushings can not increase . All 3 of the above solutions comply with that rule
Eric Strelnicks BTW replaced his 3 times in the 1st 10,000 miles.
You might try taking the upper a-arm off (or at least unbolting it from the frame) repositioning the bushing and see if it stays there for awhile, before you go straight to replacement.
And, as you likely suspect, that type of movement will really impact your alignment. Caster will go up and I suspect, but don't know for sure, that camber will go up and thus toe will go in.
I don't think it's impacting alignment yet, as there is full bushing at 360 degrees around the hole in the CA. It's not torn or worn just seems to have moved/shifted.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought the rubber bushing was somehow "manufactured" into the CA, maybe it's hot molded into the CA, not glued in or pressed in.
Do you guys know?
This being the reason you can't buy the bush separate & just press it in.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought the rubber bushing was somehow "manufactured" into the CA, maybe it's hot molded into the CA, not glued in or pressed in.
I bought mine from Gene Culley, though I don't think he is a forum vendor here. Haven't bought anything parts wise in a while now, but I still have his contact info that I used last time around. If you need it, drop me a PM.
Not an uncommon problem, especially with hard AutoX use. Usually as Braad said the lowers take more of a beating.
As Brad said you can try to reposition them and it might work on a street or high speed track car. However I have found the best solution is to replace them once they have shifted.
- T1 bushings are a harder Dur rubber but you have to buy a whole new A-Arm to get them
- VB&P are Poly-Graphite which are harder yet. (DO NOT get Poly Urethane bushings)- The best solution if the class rules allow are custom Delrin bushings.
Remeber SCCA rules such as in SM2 that allow the Delrin bushings still state that the ratio of metal/composite material in the bushings can not increase . All 3 of the above solutions comply with that rule
Eric Strelnicks BTW replaced his 3 times in the 1st 10,000 miles.
Could you please elaborate, I am purchasing a complete set of control arm bushings and I don't want to make a mistake.
If the bushing has not been torn. Disconnect the four upper bolts. Swing the arm out and press the bushing back in with a press like a bearing puller or c clamp. Instead of usign teh press to push the bearing out, you use it to press the bearing in. I have found that hard autocross driving especially a right turn course forces the bushing to slide toward the rear of the car. A little around town driving might sometimes pop it back out too.
If the bushing has not been torn. Disconnect the four upper bolts. Swing the arm out and press the bushing back in with a press like a bearing puller or c clamp. Instead of usign teh press to push the bearing out, you use it to press the bearing in. I have found that hard autocross driving especially a right turn course forces the bushing to slide toward the rear of the car. A little around town driving might sometimes pop it back out too.
It's not torn or damaged, that I can tell, just moved a bit. Are the bushings supposed to be attached/stuck to the arm or not? What do the new ones seem like? I know it has to be, at the very least, a tight fit.
It's not torn or damaged, that I can tell, just moved a bit. Are the bushings supposed to be attached/stuck to the arm or not? What do the new ones seem like? I know it has to be, at the very least, a tight fit.
Thanks.
They are attached to the mounting bar that goes through the center. They are not attached to the arm, which is why you can press them back in.
They are attached to the mounting bar that goes through the center. They are not attached to the arm, which is why you can press them back in.
Dang, seems like you should be able to buy them apart from the arm then. Is there a source other the your friendly stealer (like the vendor to GM) that'll sell them?
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