Z06 clutch problem

[Donutking]

I have a 2001 z06. I just installed long tubes and a cam. Now ever since i put in the mods i have a problem with the clutch pedal going stiff between shifting on hard acceleration. If Im in second gear and i lay on it i can shift into 3rd but once i go to shift into 4th ill push on the clutch and it will go stiff and stay low and wont allow me into the next gear. then a few seconds later the pedal will float back up and then you can get into the gears again. The car has been dynoed and will shift perfect until you put it to the floor. It doesn't slip or chatter. Not sure if i have a bad slave or clutch, or if it just needs to be bled. Anyone have any ideas.??

[DJWorm]

Yours is a common problem with the 2001/2002 Z06. This was a warranty fix on the Chevy Tech Line (TSB #PI00206, Service VME). The problem is that some pressure plates were incorrectly torqued at the factory, which led to uneven and possible warping of the pressure plate/flywheel....which leads to air being intrained into the slave cylinder under high heat conditions (hard shifts). The symptom is the clutch pedal sticking to the floor as you discribed.

You can do a Search on this site using keywords "sticking clutch pedal" and read all about it.

Some have tried intermidiate fixes such as constant bleeding and changing to a DOT 4 Clutch fluid, even using a turkey baster at the clutch master cylinder, but this does not cure the problem and only solves it till you heat up the clutch again.

The OEM clutch is a LUX unit.

Unfortunetly once this symptom presents itself the goose is already "cooked" so to speak and the parts affect never work well again.

The only true fix is to replace the whole clutch including the flywheel, pressure plate, clutch disc pack, throw out bearing and slave cylinder. Installing a remote bleed line and DOT 4 fluid at this time is a good idea. You might also want to consider a lightweight Fidanza flywheel and a more HP racing clutch such as a Spec, McCloud or Excedy.

Make sure the bolts are torqued in the correct torque specs., in the correct order and stepped sequence.

Even though you are now out of warranty the Dealer may cut you a break and do a partial warranty repair; depending on the total milage on the car and how nice he is. It would be helpful when approaching them to have the Tech Line # (as noted above) in hand for a reference.

[Donutking]

i was hopeing not to hear that. Now when you say bleeding the clutch and switching the fluid will that stop it for a short amount of time or just helps to make it better. Like i said i only have it when shifting hard and the pedal does not stay stuck to the floor it slowely rises back up. I was thinking that it would be a hydralic problem more than a clutch or flywheel. Im looking to make it to the track at least once this year so im trying to find a fix so that i can run through a few good shifts to see what it can do with these mods.

[RC45]

FWIW, GM replaced my entire clutch setup 3 times during the cars warranty life, each time using the "new better" stuff and the problme was never solved.

They did the master, then slave then entire clutch setup 3 times for a total of 6 tear downs.

The problem was solved the day I had a Spec III clutch installed.

Others have had different results.

I think the problem is inherent in the design of the entire system - and it works great if people baby their cars, but its not a great setup for cars that are beat on hard.

[Donutking]

I agree but the warrenty on the car is up and i dont want to replace a perfectly good clutch and hydralic setup if its not going to fix the problem but i appreciate the information some say t remove the spring under the dash?? good idea??