I'm in process of installing a Magneson S/C and trying to find answer to:
Read in a post the someone "FRIED" a piston during Dyno-Tuning after using the SuperChips Programmer that comes with the Magnuson S/C package. Others say no problem and use the SuperChips program both on and off Drag Strip.
My question is 2 parts
(1) Just driving car with S/C around "NORMAL" with a few quick burst should be ok.
I don't believe that normal driving, such as highway driving, will cause a lean condition. The PCM should compensate. I think the lean condition everyone talks about is at WOT when the PCM is in OPEN LOOP MODE and not compensating.
I plan on driving "NORMAL-HIGHWAY" on a trip before getting Dyno-Tuned.
Am I correct in my above assumptions?
(2) If an engine will "FRY" trying to Dyno-Tune, how do you get it tuned?
BTW.......I only heard of this happening to one unlucky person
Thanks
George
BTW..I'm posting this on several Vette Forums so you might see it elsewhere..Thanks again
Normal driving should not cause a lean condition...since the power builds with RPM...no need for extra fuel. Good question on how to tune and not have issues, I don't understand that either unless you make it very rich and work your way back down.(?)
I ask also what injectors came with the S/C and got the following answers:
1) Unit comes with Ford 42 # injectors.
2) Are they the Bosch 42 lb injectors? If so they are a great injector!! At 65 PSI they actually flow at 51.3 lbs... that's what I have my car set at.
3) Yes the are the Ford/Bosch 42 # injectors *** easy to spot by the GREEN top.
Yesterday (Sunday) I set the PCM back to STOCK using LS1-Edit. The Superchips programmer says the PCM must start out as STOCK prior to programming. So CAGS back on, Fans reset, Fuel reset, etc.
Sorry I don't have the answer, but I can tell you that the programmer that comes with the Magnuson SC was not recommended because I was running 4.10's. My chip mod was done by Ed Wright.
I had a friend install a Magnuson and he too fried a piston. He had 1/2 tank of mid-grade and topped tank off with 91...moral of story be careful of what grade of gas you're running
As long as the injector offset table & injector flowrate table are correctly calibrated for the Bosch 42lb. injectors the drivability should be find & no harm should be done. If those two tables are not correct then the computor will adjust as much as it can but if they are to far off then it could foul the plugs, just depends on how far they are off in which direction (Rich or Lean). We have tuned many vettes including Z06's, our stock Z06's w/headers average 500-530rwhp on a 6-7lbs with a ProCharger P1-SC. Anxesious to see how yours does, I haven't seen any posts on the system you are running. Also the best way to help prevent from damage to the motor while tunning it is to have a dyno that shows Air/Fuel Ratio live (as you are making the pull). This way if it starts to lean out you can shut it down before it is to late. I know alot of dynos air/fuel is not avaliable until after the pull or lags behind a few seconds, these are the ones you have to be extra careful with.
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Thanks,Keith
www.forcefedperformance.com
Where going fast is not an option!
Originally posted by ForceFedPerform Also the best way to help prevent from damage to the motor while tunning it is to have a dyno that shows Air/Fuel Ratio live (as you are making the pull). This way if it starts to lean out you can shut it down before it is to late. I know alot of dynos air/fuel is not avaliable until after the pull or lags behind a few seconds, these are the ones you have to be extra careful with.
I couldn't agree more.
With the A/F wideband sensor inserted and a dyno run at rpm's less than maximum (on the first run), a good tuner will adjust your trims before making further dyno's.
We are actually in Yuba City, 1/2 hour north of Sacramento off highway 99. We have a in house chassis dyno & LS-1 edit for those of you who are interested. Our dyno is a Dyno Dynamics which is an Eddie Current Style (same style as a Mustang Dynomometer) these type actualy load the car unlike the Dyno Jets. These general run around $10,000.00 more than a Dyno Jet dyno.
Removed Trottle body and filled in PCV Cavity with Epoxy the polished to a super shine. Then drilled a 1/4 inch hole for PCV vent. Took pic(s) the before was ok but the after way to dark to see finished product.
Run AutoTap 3 separate runs and LTFT were lean (~ +15.xx) also had a sight pulsing at idle.
I adjusted the Injector Flow Rate Table by -10% (mult by 90%) and now the idle appears to have smoothed out. I use LS1-edit for programming.
Rain, Rain, Rain so I can get AutoTap to check how close I am on the LTFT.
After AutoTap if I'm close on the LTFT I will fine tune with MAF adjustment to get to and slight negative number (rich).
Boy this is not like the old days. Timing lights, dwell meters, feeler gauges, jets, etc. But I'm learning.
George
BTW...I'm making these adjustment against the superchips program supplied with the S/C. Which doesn't account for Vortex, Nylon MAF end, screen removed, FLP Headers.
Also disabled CAGS & tuned fans on at lower temps.
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