The cap is drilled and threaded and attached to the compressor regulated to 20-20 psi ( a pump sprayer will do) The other end is threaded to a water bottle to catch the fluid. One man operation. No pumping etc.
At 7500 miles I had lots of bubbles and discolored fluid. It definately needed doing.
Can you explain/show how it's connected to the system?
The stock cap is replaced with the cap that has the barb fitting and tube attached. A pressure source (in my case the compressor regulated to 25 psi) is connected to the other end. The other clear tube is connect to the brake bleed fitting and into a water bottle cap. When you open the fitting the brake fluid flows into the water bottle. A small hole is needed in the cap of the bottle to let air out. I was able to bleed the brakes without spilling or wasting a drop of the precious Motul.
Poor man's Motive pressure bleeder?
I have never tried pressure bleeding ... just do my speedbleeders.
Really a rich man's Motive! I have a Motive and it is a pita. This is a huge improvment. With the speedbleeders how do you get pressure to the system? I am not familiar with how they work.
Pressure bleeding is nice because you can watch the fluid come out and know when it is clear. This saves fluid and insures a complete purge of air/water. I notice the GM techs use a pressure bleeder also as stated in the manual.
[quote=jswatek1;1226340]... With the speedbleeders how do you get pressure to the system? I am not familiar with how they work. ... QUOTE]
Speedbleeders are conventional looking bleeders, but have an internal valve that prevents air ingestion thru the bleeder. One bleeds as with conventional bleeders, but it's a one-man operation, as no one needs to monitor the bleeder ... do your pumps, get out, check the clolor of the fluid in the loop in the bleed hose - if it looks good, close the bleeder.
That's how they're supposed to work. Unfortunately, I (and others) have had some fail. The internal check valve did not work correctly, allowing air in. You won't notice this until you discover you have air in the system. After troubleshooting you may eventually discover the Speedbleeders are to blame when after replacing them, the problem ceases.
Thus, I no longer use nor recommend them.
As far as pressure bleeding, although the SM states that is one method, it is not the only procedure detailed. It also recommends using a pressure bleeder that is a two-stage design (pressurized air on one side of a diaphragm and Nitrogen on the other) costing far more than something like the Motive Products unit, which I have also used. Ask me how many brake master cylinders have been ruined by using one. And I am not talking about Corvettes alone.
Personally, I prefer and use the vacuum method. I use a bleeder that connects to a compressor. Another uses a hand pump to create a vacuum and is useful at trackside. Both employ a simple venturi effect, thus drawing fluid through the system and into a container. In essence, a vacuum assisted gravity bleed. It's simple and safe.
That's how they're supposed to work. Unfortunately, I (and others) have had some fail. The internal check valve did not work correctly, allowing air in. You won't notice this until you discover you have air in the system. After troubleshooting you may eventually discover the Speedbleeders are to blame when after replacing them, the problem ceases.
Thus, I no longer use nor recommend them.
As far as pressure bleeding, although the SM states that is one method, it is not the only procedure detailed. It also recommends using a pressure bleeder that is a two-stage design (pressurized air on one side of a diaphragm and Nitrogen on the other) costing far more than something like the Motive Products unit, which I have also used. Ask me how many brake master cylinders have been ruined by using one. And I am not talking about Corvettes alone.
Personally, I prefer and use the vacuum method. I use a bleeder that connects to a compressor. Another uses a hand pump to create a vacuum and is useful at trackside. Both employ a simple venturi effect, thus drawing fluid through the system and into a container. In essence, a vacuum assisted gravity bleed. It's simple and safe.
How does the pressure bleeding damage the system? I don't want to risk ruining a master cylinder. I figured that the system is under much more pressure when in use than 25 psi.
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