Brake Pad Pin Issues

[WhosUrDaddy]

I have opted to go with light modifications to the brake system for track duty. They include Carbotech XP10's, Motul fluid and stainless lines. The system works terrifically on the track now - though I'd love to get rid of the constant squeek of track pads.

Twice now I've tried to remove the "pins" with a 6mm hex end socket and have found that they strip prior to breaking free. The first time this happened the dealer replaced all 4 calipers so that they could be returned to mfr for examination. The mechanic that installed the new calipers torqued the pins to exact specifications (33 lbs) - but the problem still remains. Most of the pins won't break loose and therefore strip.

Has anyone else had this problem and solved it? Would hot calipers be better or worse? Suggestions?

[DJWorm]

Use anti-sieze on the threads, either:

1. GM Part # 12371386 Nickle anti sieze compound. Withstands temp. up to 2,500*. DO NOT USE ON O2 SENSORS. 8 oz.

2. GM Part # 12377953 Dry Film anti-sieze compound. Withstands temp. up to 2,400*. Safe for O2 Sensors. 4 oz. (applies as a liquid and dries to a dry film. ie non-greasy, air drying)

I prefer # 2 for this application.

[Velocity]

Whosur, I have had the problem. I change back and forth from track and street pads and the bolts are very sensitive to stripping. GM only sells the bolts with the pads so I have had to purchase an extra set off pads just to get the bolts. I am planning to ditch the GM
brakes and go with stoptechs. DJ's advice is also good. I have been using anti seize and a dab of lock tite then torque to only 27lbs method with sucess for the past 4 events and only had to drill and EZ out one bolt since. 1st time through the brake system, 6 bolts of the 30 need to be drilled and EZed

[spdrcrj]

Can you guys explain to me why you dont just remove the calipers and slide the pads out, leaving the pins in place? It's just two bolts to remove the caliper. Just an honest question.

thanks,
Jim