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Old 12-16-2007, 09:14 PM   #1 (permalink)
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cluth pedal sticks

stays to floor on launch .why.
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Old 12-16-2007, 09:26 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Re: cluth pedal sticks

What year corvette? C5 or C6?

I have had this scenerio on a C5 Z and it was a pain in the @ss. I swapped out four clutches in 60K miles. It was a real pain in the @ss.

Some say Rangers fluid swap (try a search for details) work.

My final resolution was yet another new clutch setup and a bleeder hose too.

I plan with my new C6 to change out the fluid at the dealership every year.

GM now calls for 24 month clutch fluid change.. on the C6... I'm doing it every year just to be preventative.

Changing the fluid per rangers meathod would be my first suggestion..

It takes 5 minutes if that to do out of the master as he describes it...and then do it for 1/2 hour pressing on the clutch pedal 20 times per purge (with the cover on..then take off to remove.)

It works for a lot of guys and at the very worst it will buy some time..
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Old 12-16-2007, 09:30 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Re: cluth pedal sticks

08 z cant launch it like the c5
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Old 12-16-2007, 09:33 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Re: cluth pedal sticks

it only got 250 miles on it i think it how im driving it riding it to long on the launch i guess.
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Old 12-17-2007, 10:03 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Re: cluth pedal sticks

The C6 Z's don't like to have the clutch slipped like the C5's did.

The clutch will glaze easy.

You've got to do a fast release, and keep the fluid clean.

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Old 12-17-2007, 11:36 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Re: cluth pedal sticks

As to why overheating the clutch fluid (if that is the issue) causes the pedal not to return is, simply put, for the same reason brakes do not work properly when the brake fluid overheats. Moisture in the brake or clutch fluid boils and produces air. Air being highly compressible is incompatible with the hydraulic principle.

With the C6, GM used DOT4 clutch fluid instead of the DOT3 specified for the C5 in an attempt to help alleviate the issue. DOT4 fluid has a higher wet boiling point than DOT3. That means any moisture in it will boil at a higher temperature. They also added more insulation around the clutch fluid and brake lines. However, the problem persists as the design of the hydraulic clutch is such that heat affects its performance in the manner described.

Note: Brake fluid, which is what the clutch fluid really is, is Hygroscopic. Meaning it has an affinity for water and thus absorbs moisture from the atmosphere; the 'wet boiling point' being the temperature where any moisture in the fluid will boil. Note also that some DOT4 fluids, although they have a higher wet boiling point, are also more Hygroscopic in nature and thus need be changed more frequently. For this reason, DOT3 fluid is still the specified fluid for the brake system since the car is designed primarily for street use. Under those circumstances, high brake fluid temperatures are not as likely as it is for those cars that see track duty. Therefore, over the long term DOT3 fluid will absorb less moisture and thus need flushing less often. However, if one tracks their car, then DOT4 is certainly better. The caveat being they need to flush the system more frequently or at least bleed the brakes more often. The same holds true for the clutch.

Prevention:

Evidence indicates it may help to reduce the likelihood of this issue occurring by regularly replacing the fluid in the clutch fluid reservoir. When you notice the color changing, that is becoming dark, and beginning to appear like ice tea, simply use a turkey baster or syringe and withdraw all the fluid from the clutch fluid reservoir. Replace it with new fluid from a freshly opened container, or at least one that has not been opened (even with the cap on) for too long. Then press and release the clutch pedal 15-20 times rapidly. CAUTION: DO NOT press the clutch pedal while the clutch fluid reservoir is empty! Repeat this procedure until the clutch fluid in the reservoir is clear.

This method has been shown to greatly reduce the incidence of the pedal remaining on the floor, although it is no guarantee. Following these simple steps at least once a month, or whenever you see the color drastically change, will suffice in most cases.
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Old 12-18-2007, 03:13 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Re: cluth pedal sticks

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob G View Post
it only got 250 miles on it i think it how im driving it riding it to long on the launch i guess.
250 miles and doing hard launch ,thats good,real good,break it in to break,thats good.unreal
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Old 12-19-2007, 12:15 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Re: cluth pedal sticks

Quote:
Originally Posted by extanker View Post
250 miles and doing hard launch ,thats good,real good,break it in to break,thats good.unreal
man i left the dealer smoking the tires, power shifting my car with 3 miles on it
if you are going to break it in might as well break it the way you are giong to
drive it, 4000 miles later cam, and headers, stock clutch,
1.61 60'
10.49@135.85
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Old 12-19-2007, 09:33 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Re: cluth pedal sticks

Quote:
Originally Posted by mitch View Post
man i left the dealer smoking the tires, power shifting my car with 3 miles on it
if you are going to break it in might as well break it the way you are giong to
drive it, 4000 miles later cam, and headers, stock clutch,
1.61 60'
10.49@135.85
yeah your right,what was i thinking.you forgot to tell us about the rollbar rule
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Old 12-20-2007, 12:32 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Re: cluth pedal sticks

roll bar who need a freeking roll bar,1st pass get warned 2nd pass your out
of here, 2 is enough for me
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