If you get a flat repaired (screw removed and tire repaired) and you do NOT replace the tire pressure sensor, yet still rebuild the RTPS with the new "kit" (i.e. stem, cap, valve, etc), do you need to reset the tire sensors?
When I had my left rear tire repaired today, when I first turned the car on when they were done (no new sensor), the car rear "left rear tire flat", but a few minutes later, that error went away and it then showed the correct tire pressure.
We didn't "re-flash" the sensors.... did we need to?
Last time on the right rear, there was no error, but we reflashed the sensors for the hell of it (although they always read correct after the repair job was done).
If you get a flat repaired (screw removed and tire repaired) and you do NOT replace the tire pressure sensor, yet still rebuild the RTPS with the new "kit" (i.e. stem, cap, valve, etc), do you need to reset the tire sensors?
When I had my left rear tire repaired today, when I first turned the car on when they were done (no new sensor), the car rear "left rear tire flat", but a few minutes later, that error went away and it then showed the correct tire pressure.
We didn't "re-flash" the sensors.... did we need to?
Last time on the right rear, there was no error, but we reflashed the sensors for the hell of it (although they always read correct after the repair job was done).
I don't understand what you replaced. The sensor and the valve stem are a single unit. Did you see the tire guys actually replace the valve stem or did they just charge you for it? The fact that you are getting readings from that wheel indicates to me that they didn't, that your old TPS unit is still there and functioning. Am I missing something?
They didn't replace the actual sensor and stem... but rather just rebuilt it with new parts (sans sensor and stem replacement). They showed me a little baggie with parts insite and it was called a Remote Tire Pressure Sensor Kit. This kit had a valve stem cap, a "barrell" (looke like it goes around the stem on the outside of the wheel), a schrader valve, and I think that was it.
They didn't replace the actual sensor and stem... but rather just rebuilt it with new parts (sans sensor and stem replacement). They showed me a little baggie with parts insite and it was called a Remote Tire Pressure Sensor Kit. This kit had a valve stem cap, a "barrell" (looke like it goes around the stem on the outside of the wheel), a schrader valve, and I think that was it.
Well, everything seems to be find and the sensors are reading correct. I even checked it with an accurate gauge on the tires themselves. I'm going to assume that as long as the sensors themselves are not changed, then they don't need to be "re-learned" to the car. Simply rebuilding the sensor/stem assembly without replacing the sensor is no different than manually letting all the air out of your tire and then re-inflating it.
Someone please correct me on this if I'm on the wrong track of thought.
Unless the valve stem was damaged, there was no need to "rebuild" anything on the sensor. I've had flats and tire changes galore. Just unscrew the schrader to let any air out of the tire and then remove/replace the tire as usual. Screw the valve back in and reinflate. No need to do anything to the sensor except be careful with the tire irons to avoid damaging anything during the removal/remount.
The sensors don't transmit continually, if they did the batteries in them wouldn't last very long. They send periodically, and only when the tire is rotating. It can take a few minutes after a restart before the sensor sends a new reading.
I think (hope. It's the way I'd design it), but cannot say for certain that the sensors only send periodically when the tire pressure isn't changing. If you actually get a leak and the pressure does start to change quickly, the sensor sends right away.
The sensors are self-contained. Each has a unique identification code, which it uses when it sends the tire pressure reading. When you train the RFA, you're teaching the computer which sensor on which tire uses which particular ID code. From then on, the RFA knows that the signal from a given sensor, with it's unique ID, corresponds to the tire you "taught" to the RFA during training.
Unless you replace a sensor with a new one, or move the sensors around to different wheels (or if, god forbid, you rotate your tires), the RFA never needs to be retrained. It will even remember if the battery is removed (though I don't think that it will remember indefinitely).
So the tire guys replaced some stuff that might not have needed replacing, but you're all set in every other regard.
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