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Old 02-08-2010, 02:12 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Ticking sound

I know this topic has been beaten up already but I wondered if anyone has ever found a cure for the 1500 - 1800 rpm ticking sound coming from the passenger side of the cabin. It drives me nuts. Otherwise my C6 Z06 sounds awesome but that darn tick makes it sound cheap at that certain rpm. I have read some of the posts but no clear answer seems to pop up.
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Old 02-08-2010, 02:53 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Re: Ticking sound

There is no cure. They all do it to varying degrees. Only thing you can do is to buy another Z and hope it ticks less or replace the engine.

I notice it mine but I don't complain anymore since it is way quieter than my 02.
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Old 02-08-2010, 04:17 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Re: Ticking sound

I'm trying to get used to it. But must say it does bug me. Do you know what it is?
I've sold every toy I own to buy my baby so I don't think I'll be replacing it anytime soon. Perhaps as I age my hearing will get to the level where I do not notice it. Ha Ha
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Old 02-08-2010, 04:42 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Re: Ticking sound

One school of thought is loss of oil control in the lifter area due to (1) poor oiling and (2) expansion of the aluminum block beyond tolerance to the point of lifters cannot maintain proper control of the valve train. In other words, the valves get out of adjustment. I guess that is why GM designed the engine to have priority camshaft oiling instead of crankshaft.



My LS6 had the tick bad but, my current LS7 is very quiet. It still ticks to a certain degree though.

Last edited by jub jub : 02-09-2010 at 06:53 AM.
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Old 02-08-2010, 06:39 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Re: Ticking sound

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jbusa95te View Post
I know this topic has been beaten up already but I wondered if anyone has ever found a cure for the 1500 - 1800 rpm ticking sound coming from the passenger side of the cabin. It drives me nuts. Otherwise my C6 Z06 sounds awesome but that darn tick makes it sound cheap at that certain rpm. I have read some of the posts but no clear answer seems to pop up.
You need to determine if the oil sump tank has the repairs that GM released about 1 year ago where a part in tank comes off and causes a odd sound

Fuel injectors cause a clicking and is normal

With a thin cylinder sleeve rather then a thicker wall will also transmit more sound.
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Old 02-08-2010, 08:18 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Re: Ticking sound

Great responses guys. Thanks
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Old 02-09-2010, 04:36 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Re: Ticking sound

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Originally Posted by racingvette View Post
You need to determine if the oil sump tank has the repairs that GM released about 1 year ago where a part in tank comes off and causes a odd sound

Fuel injectors cause a clicking and is normal

With a thin cylinder sleeve rather then a thicker wall will also transmit more sound.
Any more info on that repair? Service Bulletin? Did it apply to the 2006?

Thanks
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Old 02-09-2010, 05:05 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Re: Ticking sound

The dry sump noise is a rattle caused by a loose baffle in the oil tank. Injectors tick but can't be heard from inside the cabin once under way.

If you care to notice, the C5s didn't have dry sumps and they ticked. Do a search on Engine Tick and you'll find a ton of info.
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Old 02-09-2010, 06:39 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Re: Ticking sound

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Any more info on that repair? Service Bulletin? Did it apply to the 2006?

Thanks
08-06-01-019: Rattle/Tapping Type Noise Heard Under Hood (Diagnose and Replace Engine Oil Tank Transfer Tube Seal (O-Ring)) - (Aug 13, 2008)


Subject: Rattle/Tapping Type Noise Heard Under Hood (Diagnose and Replace Engine Oil Tank Transfer Tube Seal (O-Ring))


Models: 2006-2009 Chevrolet Corvette Z06

2009 Chevrolet Corvette ZR1 with 6.2L or 7.0L Engine (VINs R, E -- RPOs LS9, LS7)

Condition

Some customers may comment on a rattle or tapping type noise that is heard under the hood at just above idle, usually 1200 to 2200 RPM. In some cases, this noise may also be heard on the inside of the vehicle and be more pronounced on the passenger side.

Cause

This noise may be caused by the internal transfer tube in the engine oil tank hitting the inside of the tank cover. The seal (o-ring) that secures the tube in place may split and slide down the tube allowing the tube to be loose.

Correction

Diagnose the noise by raising the vehicle on a hoist and holding the throttle at about 1500 RPM to duplicate the condition.

Use a stethoscope or chassis ears and place them on the side of the engine oil tank. If the noise is detected, perform the procedure outlined below. If the noise is not detected, continue following published diagnostics in SI.

Remove the engine oil tank from the vehicle. Refer to the Oil Tank Replacement procedure in SI.

Remove the eight bolts that secure the tank top.

Separate the tank. Check the seal (o-ring) for proper position and damage. Replace the seal (o-ring) if damaged with P/N 24576940.

Reinstall the tank top and secure with the eight bolts.
Install the engine oil tank into the vehicle.
Refer to the Oil Tank Replacement procedure in SI.
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Old 02-09-2010, 06:44 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Re: Ticking sound

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Originally Posted by jub jub View Post
The dry sump noise is a rattle caused by a loose baffle in the oil tank. Injectors tick but can't be heard from inside the cabin once under way.

If you care to notice, the C5s didn't have dry sumps and they ticked. Do a search on Engine Tick and you'll find a ton of info.
GM calls it a rattle and tapping sound as to oil sump tank issue and happening above 1500 RPM range where the OP is hearing the noise.

Some may not hear the injectors, many others do and one of the reasons for the plastic covers over them.

I heard a big difference in injectors going from a stock one to larger ones for supercharger.
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Old 02-10-2010, 07:49 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Re: Ticking sound

It's GM's excuse for everything. Replace the O ring in this or that. Same crap they did when I brought my 02 in for the tapping noise, replace the oil pump pick-up tube O ring. Well, it didn't do squat and is not the problem or the cure.

I have personally corresponded with one of the design engineers on this problem and he told me what the real problem was, which is what I stated above. It's inherent in all LS blocks and one of the reasons GM designed it with priority cam oiling instead of main like most other blocks. Due to tolerance and metallurgical variations in the block, some will be more prone to lifter bleed down than others.

Want to get rid of it, run a solid lifter cam and adjust your valves every week.
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