Limits of the stock drivetrain

[forge]

Any clue where the limits of the stock drivetrain is? Ive heard anywhere from 600rwhp to 650rwhp, mostly due ot the rear end and transmission. I am looking to boost one, but want to make sure it can handle the power. Goal is 700rwhp.

Thanks


- Forge

[ZO6 AL-X]

Welcome to the site. Actually, if you upgrade your output shaft, that should handle 650 rwhp... that and the clutch, of course. If you beat it up enough, eventually you'll need to replace the aluminum shift forks with steel ones. What year is your car, btw? Good luck.

[forge]

Thank you for the response.

I dont have a vette yet. I was looking at a C-6 z06 or a 05-06 Viper and i wanted to get an idea of each cars potential as part of my decision process. Either one i pick will be boosted (probably a turbo, but the z06 engine compartment is pretty small - so possibly a s/c in that).

Maybe you can shed a little more light, but i heard the cylinder walls on the c-6 z06 block (ls7) were pretty thin and wouldnt take alot of abuse - which is why the zr1 is using a diffferent block.

Also hear the transmission and read end are on borrowed time after 650rwhp. If its just an input shaft on the transmission, that isnt as bad.

Can you think of anything else that may have issues getting it to 700rwhp?

Thank again for your response.

[jub jub]

We're not engineers, so to say with any certainty how much HP a car in handle is a crap shoot.

From what I've been seeing, 100-150 HP is a pretty safe bet but after that, you need to be prepared to fix broken parts, that is, if you beat it on a regular basis.

[Z0fritz]

I agree with jub jub...It is hard to put a number on how much a drivetrain can handle. Anything can happen and there are a lot of variables. Some guys seem to have great luck with their stuff staying together others not so much. I am put out around 440 horse and 410 lbs of torque at the wheels and I recently broke the mainshaft in the transmission...go figure. I guess you have two ways to go. 1: Build up the engine and replace drivetrain parts as they break...with better stuff. 2: Build the drivetrain now to help prevent any problems in the future. I will say that I broke my shaft just driving around on the street, not at the drag strip. I think my clutch had a lot to do with it..no slip at all. Good luck and it should be fun.

[DennyM]

Welcome to

I don't have an answer to your question, but the *answer* may be different depending on application.
Are you looking at 1/4 track sessions? That puts much more stress on the drivetrain. The ZR1 has beefed up xmsn and output shafts ... dunno if they're backward compatible with C6Z06.
Are you looking at road course use? That puts much more heat into the drivetrain. Additional cooling may be required.
Are you looking at GP street use? FI will generate more heat and require more engine cooling.
If you're concerned about clearances, perhaps an aftermarket hood would work if you definitely want turbo.
GM uses the 6.2 LS9 for the ZR1 because they determined that the 7.0 LS7 walls would not take the boost.
Assume you're looking at C6Z primarily ... many putting serious boost into a C5 opt for an iron block.

[forge]

thank you all for the replies. That is the exact info i was looking for. I might start looking c-5z as it may handle more power engine wise and be cheaper to buy.

[ZO6 AL-X]

Originally Posted by forge

thank you all for the replies. That is the exact info i was looking for. I might start looking c-5z as it may handle more power engine wise and be cheaper to buy.

Just wanted to add one more thing: as the guys above pointed out, it's hard to say just what would break and when. When you're talking about 600+ rwhp, anything can break unexpectedly. I would fix the car the way you want it, and get use out of the parts that are on it - replace stuff as it starts to go out. Good luck.

[dvredc6427]

Originally Posted by forge

Any clue where the limits of the stock drivetrain is? Ive heard anywhere from 600rwhp to 650rwhp, mostly due ot the rear end and transmission. I am looking to boost one, but want to make sure it can handle the power. Goal is 700rwhp.

Thanks


- Forge

I'd like to add one more variable to the mix for you to consider - traction. Higher horsepower & torque alone don't break parts. Hooking the rear tires up WITH more HP is what breaks parts. OK, two variables. The other is how hard you plan to launch the car from a dead stop. Nothing is harder on a drive train than launching from a dead stop while trying to maximize your acceleration. In our younger days we blew clutch discs in our 77 Z28's with the stock weak 180hp motors yet had no trouble with 400 hp engines we put in them once we beefed up the clutches and stopped dumping the clutch at 4,000 rpms to do hole shots and 180's.

Good luck and you will enjoy either car - totally different cars so drive them both first so you won't have any surprises. I rented a new Viper for a day before I decided on my 08 427 Z06. Not saying one is better than the other. I just bought what I liked best and we all should do.

[george]

Originally Posted by ZO6 AL-X

Welcome to the site. Actually, if you upgrade your output shaft, that should handle 650 rwhp... that and the clutch, of course. If you beat it up enough, eventually you'll need to replace the aluminum shift forks with steel ones. What year is your car, btw? Good luck.

2nd all that. Been there, your right on with good info.

[MikesZ06]

Originally Posted by dvredc6427

I'd like to add one more variable to the mix for you to consider - traction. Higher horsepower & torque alone don't break parts. Hooking the rear tires up WITH more HP is what breaks parts. OK, two variables. The other is how hard you plan to launch the car from a dead stop. Nothing is harder on a drive train than launching from a dead stop while trying to maximize your acceleration.

Your point is well stated

Mike

[Spritle]

Brother's 05 C6 has a stock long block with a D1SC, methanol, Kooks LT's, hi-flow cats and a cat back and puts 617hp to the wheels. We don't beat the crap out of it from a dig. Just use it for local cruises, 60-130 events and standing mile every now and then. Still has the stock clutch, trans and rear end. As stated above, if you're not leaving on it hard you should be okay. Every car is different though.

My C5Z is built and I beat the crap outta it.

[Pit Man]

Originally Posted by dvredc6427

I'd like to add one more variable to the mix for you to consider - traction. Higher horsepower & torque alone don't break parts. Hooking the rear tires up WITH more HP is what breaks parts. OK, two variables. The other is how hard you plan to launch the car from a dead stop. Nothing is harder on a drive train than launching from a dead stop while trying to maximize your acceleration. In our younger days we blew clutch discs in our 77 Z28's with the stock weak 180hp motors yet had no trouble with 400 hp engines we put in them once we beefed up the clutches and stopped dumping the clutch at 4,000 rpms to do hole shots and 180's.

Good luck and you will enjoy either car - totally different cars so drive them both first so you won't have any surprises. I rented a new Viper for a day before I decided on my 08 427 Z06. Not saying one is better than the other. I just bought what I liked best and we all should do.

I agree with Dvrd and Mike (the 9 second wild man)....I launch at 6800 rpm just to get a 1.4 sixty foot like Robz and Always in Boost, plus others. Add in a twin disk clutch and things start to break. Don't pop the clutch...slip-slip-slip...it....or take it easy !!

Pitt

[ls2gto06]

I am too afraid to dump the clutch at anything past idle. I saw a guy at the track bust his rear on his C6 from dumping it at 2500 on hot tires. That sucks.

[ZO6 AL-X]

Originally Posted by ls2gto06

I am too afraid to dump the clutch at anything past idle. I saw a guy at the track bust his rear on his C6 from dumping it at 2500 on hot tires. That sucks.

This is why guys upgrade to the C5 Z rear - it's stronger than the one used on the C6 Z and coupe.