What methods for relocating your battery to the rear of a C5Z are considered legal for use at a dragstrip?
I know Lingenfelter sells a kit for a full size battery that places it in a sealed box (with vent) in the center valley.
I want to use a lighter Odessey battery and mount it in the right side "well" - the one that has the tire repair kit in it. I plan to purchase the well cover for a standard C5 and "fasten" it somehow to seal it from the passenger compartment, then add a vent to allow any gasses to escape.
How can I go about doing this without causing grief at the track? Several times I've been teched-in and the guy will make a point of making sure that A) the battery is in the stock location (OUTSIDE the passenger compartment), and B) that it's properly fastened down.
I don't want to do this only to find out too late that I've just screwed myself...
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'02 EB/MR Z
Halltech Stngr, LGM Pro LTs, Stock Tune, 4 18" R2's on OEM Rears
11.86 @ 118, 1.82 60' (F1's), best 60' 1.80 (R2's)
80% Track, 20% Driver, 100% Z
A sealed box, with vent, whether LPE or some other Vendor, securely mounted...
Double check an NHRA rulebook, or go to their website...
__________________ PowerPro01 sez "STAY TUNED"................ GarettO's the SigGod! "NOTHING Matters...until you CARE..." Bob Gibson If RACING was EASY, they'd call it WINNING ! Anonymous
However the Odyssey is a dry cell so there is no fluid, leakage or gas venting problem; even if the case is busted open.
Also, Odysseys can be bought with a metal reinforced case or without the metal case. The metal case is necessary for heat insulation when installed under the hood. It is NOT necessary if you install the battery in the rear.
The SCCA does NOT consider anything mounted behind the seats as IN the driver's compartment....the NHRA may have a different view however.
The C6 Z06 has the battery mounted in a similar compartment with a hinged lid to the "trunk" area.
The NHRA also requires a push/pull shutoff switch that can be mounted in the license plate area. There was a recent article on such an installatiojn in either "VETTE" or "Corvette Fever" magazine.
I have also seen newly developed metal mounts for the Odyssey batteries which were advertised as "NHRA" legal & approved, but were not totally enclosed & vented boxes
You really need to consult the latest NHRA rule book.
email me at: DJWorm50@aol.com and I can pprovide you with some pictures of these mounts & boxes
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Williams GT Engineering @ www.WilliamsGTEng.us
F1 Technology, Parts and Preparation for Competition Corvettes AMSOIL Online Store
If you are running a relocated battery, it must be mounted to the frame or frame structure with a minimum of two 3/8-inch diameter bolts and a metal hold-down strap.
Also, the battery must be completely sealed from the driver compartment. This means a bulkhead must separate the trunk from the driver compartment. The battery can also be located in a sealed metal box, constructed of a minimum of .024-inch-thick steel or .032-inch-thick aluminum. Moroso also offers an NHRA-accepted plastic battery box, PN 74050.
Any car with a relocated battery must be equipped with a master electrical cutoff capable of stopping all electrical functions, including ignition. In other words, if somebody hits the master switch, it must shut off the engine as well as the fuel pumps and so on. The switch must be located on the rear of the vehicle, with the off position clearly marked. If the switch is a push-pull type, push must be the motion that shuts off the switch. Plastic or keyed-type switches are prohibited.
I will double check my rulebook when I get home but I believe this to be very accurate.
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Vince
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Last edited by benenati379 : 03-03-2006 at 11:45 AM.
8.1: All batteries must be securely mounted. Batteries may not be relocated into the driver or passenger compartments. Rear firewall or .024-inch steel or .032-inch aluminum (including package tray) required when battery is relocated in trunk. In lieu of rear firewall, battery may be located in a sealed .024-inch steel, .032-inch aluminum, or NHRA-accepted poly box. If sealed box is used lieu of rear firewall, box may not be used to secure battery and must be vented outside of body. Relocated battery(s) must be fastened to frame or frame structure with a minimum of two 3/8-inch-diameter bolts. ("j" hooks prohibited or must have open end welded shut.) Metal battery hold down straps mandatory. Strapping tape prohibited. A maximum of two automobile batteries, or 150lbs combined maximum weight (unless otherwise specified in Class Requirements), is permitted. Maximums may vary according to Class Requirements.
Gee guys, thanks for the great info! I never even thought about having to provide an external "kill" switch... that right there may "kill" this issue! (No pun intended...)
benenati379: Your first post quotes as requiring a kill switch and your second does not. Would a kill switch be required for a street car? Maybe only if it runs faster than a certain time?
DJ: I will definitely contact you for more info on those boxes.
That first quote was something I found off the internet. The second post and this one are direct from the rulebook for 2005.
Out of the rule book:
8:4 Master Cutoff
Mandatory when battery is relocated, or as outlined in Class Requirements. An electrical power cutoff switch (one only) must be accessible from outside the car body. This cutoff switch must be connected to the positive side of the electrical system and must stop all electrical functions including magneto ignition. The off position must be clearly indicated with the word "OFF". If switch is "push/pull" type, "push" must be the action for shutting off the electrical system, "pull" to turn it on. Any rods or cables used to activate the switch must be minimum 1/8-inch diameter. Plastic or keyed switches prohibited. Switches and/or controls must be located behind rear wheels on rear-engine dragsters.
This battery relocation is starting to become quite involved!
So for a single switch to kill the engine it will not only have to interrupt the battery power but also the power coming from the alternator, since an engine will continue running if you simply disconnect the battery...
What's the reccomendation for this? I'm assuming it will require re-routing the main power cable after the alternator and battery connection to this kill switch and then back to it's original location, right? Where are some typical locations that work well to locate the switch on a C5?
What are options for kill switches, and where can they be purchased? Also, how safe and reliable would these switches be? I would hate to lose power while cruising on the highway!
Painless Performance High Amp Shut Down Relay Kits Part# 50105
Or
Flaming River Combination Battery and Alternator Kill Switch Part # FR1013
Or
You'll have to tap into the power to the PCM.
Either way it will be a lot of wiring.
Mounting the switch isn't easy on a street driven car and you will need to effectively hide it so isn't visible when you aren't racing. Probably need to fabricate a mounting bracket either behind the license plate or rear brake light. Something that can be removed at the track but hidden during cruising.
Powell has a shop near my place (I could hit a golf ball there from my back yard). They used to race all kinds of Corvettes, now they prep CTS-Vs and Cobalts for Grand Am Cup racing... maybe I'll ask the guys there what they did for their tracked C5s back in the day.
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