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Old 10-14-2004, 10:57 PM   #1 (permalink)
VAI
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Join Date: Jun 2004
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Car Setup For De/solo Events

Ok, please guys, tell me, what do I do to my Z to have the least problems possible in a DE or Solo event?

Forget about the money(cost) and tell me the truth.

Need to know everything from brakes to tranny.. what kind of problems to expect and how to avoid them...

thanks in advance

did I mention that I LOVE MY CAR!!!!!!!
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Old 10-15-2004, 09:05 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Jump over the the Racing Forum and searc for Topics from DJworm, Subdriver and David Pintaric
They all race and have covered this topic pretty thoroughly.

Good luck.
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Old 10-15-2004, 06:29 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I'd say attend a good driving school.
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Old 10-16-2004, 01:47 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Fresh fluids with extra qt of oil

Pads and rotors should have at least 50% left

Check torque on lugs

Add a pound or two of air

Minimize shifting

Drink lots of H2O and don't forget to eat

Take a chair

Listen to your instructor

Have fun

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Old 10-17-2004, 12:18 AM   #5 (permalink)
VAI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROSSO Z
Fresh fluids with extra qt of oil

Pads and rotors should have at least 50% left

Check torque on lugs

Add a pound or two of air



why Add a pound or two of air????
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Old 10-17-2004, 06:57 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Stock tires like to run about 38-40lbs front and 34-37lbs rear when hot (depending on your style, setup,etc..)
As for going quick if you have never done an event before it is all about practice.
Back in the late 80's when I first started the best advice someone gave me was to race a whole year (DE's and Solo1) on hard compound street tires and stock suspension.
Best advice I ever had because those cars (like our's) had such high capabilities to start you had to learn when the car is forgiving.
Believe me once you bolt on the hoosiers and a good setup you have to have knowledge and seat time to play near the limit.

Do basics though:
better pads
brake lines - SS
Motul or like fluid
Good harness and bar so you learn how to drive without killing your left knee.
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Old 10-18-2004, 08:28 PM   #7 (permalink)
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While you can go overboard and do a complete SCCA T1 prep for about $20-25k:
SCCA T1 Vette

You don't really need to much at all. For my first DE I only did the following:
- Flushed brake fluid with a good high temp fluid compatible with the stock fluid (I now use Wilwood EXP 600 Plus because it has a very high dry (626F) and wet (417F) boiling point for a very reasonable price and as far as I can tell it is American made)
- Lowered car per the guidelines in the tape the car came with, then had it aligned to my specs (which were -1.75 front, -1.25 rear camber, slight toe out front, slight toe in rear)
- Replaced engine oil, tranny fluid and diff with a good synthetic (I now use and sell AMSOIL.)
- I may have added a better seat before that DE. I can't remember if I added the seat before ever tracking the car, or after my first DE.

That's about it. Tracking the car, I had oil temps approach 300, set off the tranny high temp warning, wore out my front stock F1s in 3k miles, so it wasn't long before I had:
- oil cooler
- a second set of wheels/tires for DE days
- T1 sway bars

I then couldn't decide if I wanted a harness bar, roll bar, or roll cage and kind of went off the deep end...

While I don't think you need any of these to start, here are some things to consider for a DE car (note, many of these have warranty issues):
- good engine oil, tranny fluid, diff fluid
- brake fluid
- SS brake lines (I use Goodridge with AN connections)
- brake pads (I use Carbotech)
- oil cooler
- tranny cooler
- aluminum racing radiator (I use a Ron Davis radiator carried by DRM and others)
- track wheels/tires (I use CCW and Goodyear, Hoosier and Kumho "R" compound DOT track tires)
- DRM brake ducts and Phoenix spindle ducts
- harness and a better seat (begs the question of harness bar or roll bar which is where I got in trouble...) (I use a Simpson camlock six point belt and a Cobra Suzuka seat)
- alignment
- suspension improvement not really required unless you are really serious but many, myself included, use the complete GM T1 suspension kit with Sachs T1 shocks

I haven't addressed HP gains because I feel the car is fast enough the way GM built it. In SCCA T1, our drive train is stock other than PCM reprogramming and cutting the mufflers out. There are too many cars at a DE that are faster than mine.

Hopefully that all helps a little. Here are a few more threads on the topic which you may find interesting:

Preparation for Track Events

DE Checklist

What are required mods for track day reliability for a new Z06?

More info on AMSOIL:
Engine Oil:
I use AMSOIL Series 20w50 for the engine (track use only for my car), but would recommend the Series 2000 0w30 or the SAE 5w30 for the novice DE driver. These oils meet GM spec 4718M.
Tranny fluid:
I use AMSOIL ATF for tranny (meets Dexron III requirements)
Diff fluid:
I use AMSOIL Series 2000 75w90 for diff (meets GM Spec 9986115).

I chose AMSOIL because I liked the test results I found on the web, they are an American company making their oil in Wisconsin, they recommend extended drain intervals, and warranty their product.
You can find the AMSOIL recommended products for any vehicle here:
AMSOIL Online Product Application Guide

Buy AMSOIL at Wholesale
AMSOIL Preferred Customer Program allows you to buy any AMSOIL product at wholesale, which is about 20% less expensive than retail. Cost is $10 per six months and you can buy as much oil as you want during that six months. To sign up, all it takes is one phone call to 1-800-777-7094. Give them reference number 1206638.

Or you can use this link:
AMSOIL Preferred Customer Program
Again, please put 1206638 in the customer number block.

Sales help support my racing efforts and this site.
Thanks.
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(Retail sales using reference #1206638 benefit the forum.)
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Old 10-19-2004, 09:20 AM   #8 (permalink)
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As Brad said above.

You will need to determine what class of AutoX and/or road racing you intend on running in, as that will determine the extent of advanced preperation you can accomplish. The basic preperation is pretty straight forward.

For a completely stock car running in SS and DE events:
- 1 qt overfill on the oil ( I run Mobil1 20w50 on the track).
- Top off tranny and diff with recommended or equivalant fluids
- 2 bottles of Red Line Water Wetter in the coolant.
- You can add more distilled water to the coolant and run a 70/30 (H2O/coolant) mixture in hot weather rather than the stock 50/50. This will help cool better.
- If running the stock GY F1 SC tires set PSI cold to 31F/30R
- torque lugs to 100 Ft#'s and recheck
- Remove hub caps, lug nut covers, valve stem caps
- Lower to factory recommendations
- Competition alignment
- Remove everything loose in the car, including the spare tire kit
- Clean glass and clean interior

Brakes:
- Rotors are the weakest link, I recommend Cryogenic treated rotors, otherwise consider them a disposable item after 1-2 events.
- Good racing brake fluid. either Motul 600, AP600, Wilwood EXP600 or new GS610. I use AP600. It is not compatable with any other fluid.
- Purge, flush and install new fluid using a Tech II Analyser to flush and fill the ABS. Thereafter bleed frequently especially before and after each event
- Install Speedbleeders
- Install Racing Pads. I use PFC.01's on track and KFP Gold for AutoX & street.
Be sure to bed the pads and rotors in correctly.

Basic things you need for the event:
- Good tool kit
- Aluminum, low prifile, racing jack. I recommend the American General from Harbor Freight
- Jack Stands
- Good 0-60 air pressure gauge
- Memory Tire Pyrometer (probe type NOT IR)
- Lightweight Air tank
- Torque wrench for wheel lug nuts
- Brake bleed catch bottle
- Extra Oil
- Window Cleaner and paper towels
- Mechanics gloves
- 2.5# Hand Held Halon Fire Extinguisher

Advanced Preperation:
1. If the rules allow you may want to consider
- Harness bar and Racing belts (BK or Hardbar with Simpson or Team tech)
- Roll Bar/Roll Cage (Kirk or AutoPower)
- Goodridge SS Brake Lines

2. You will soon discover that a dedicated race wheel/race tire set is desirable. Consider CCW or Kodiak wheels with Hoosier or Kuhmo DOT's

3. Also you will soon discover that the Tranny (& Diff) temps get quite high and a T1 Tranny and Diff cooler are in order. LG Motorsports, DR and Mallett also have better kits

4. An engine Oil Cooler and Accusumnp may be warranted

5. Consider either a DR/Ron Davis racing radiator or a DR/Ron Davis Racing Radiator with Integral engine oil cooler

6. Lower car past factory recommendations. I recommend Hardbar's Titanium Rear Bolts, Front Bolts with Delrin Bushings & Camber Kit. VB&P Poly Graphite Bushing Kit

Personal items to bring
- Good full face Helmet to latest Snell Req.
- Sunscreen/block
- Sunglasses
- Water/Gatorade
- First Aid Kit
- Insect repellant
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Old 10-21-2004, 03:18 PM   #9 (permalink)
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You will need to join a club or two. I recommend the following:

http://www.SCDA1.com/
http://www.nasanortheast.com/
http://www.comscc.org/
http://www.emraracing.org/

COM club has been around since the 50's and they run at Mosport, NHIS, Lime Rock, and Watkins Glen which are in within reasonable range of you. The second day of the COM events are time trials. The Sports Car Driving Association (SCDA) is for track time and since there are no timed events, your insurance and warranty usually do not get voided in case something happens (check first though). If you have any questions feel free to call!

Gary Hoffman
Hardbar.net
603.682.8073

Last edited by ghoffman : 10-21-2004 at 03:21 PM.
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Old 10-21-2004, 09:44 PM   #10 (permalink)
VAI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ghoffman
You will need to join a club or two. I recommend the following:

http://www.SCDA1.com/
http://www.nasanortheast.com/
http://www.comscc.org/
http://www.emraracing.org/

COM club has been around since the 50's and they run at Mosport, NHIS, Lime Rock, and Watkins Glen which are in within reasonable range of you. The second day of the COM events are time trials. The Sports Car Driving Association (SCDA) is for track time and since there are no timed events, your insurance and warranty usually do not get voided in case something happens (check first though). If you have any questions feel free to call!

Gary Hoffman
Hardbar.net
603.682.8073

I unfortunately Live in Quebec Canada, know of any good places???
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