Second time at the track with the Halltech Tric installed on my 02. Runs cited here are with drag radials.
First time the car ran 11.82 @ 117.59 and 11.86, 11.90, 11.94. Density altitude was 2200-2400 measured by a Performaire weather station.
Sunday at Maryland International Raceway, in air that measured 2150-2300 feet on a TAG weather station, the car ran
11.88 @ 117.35 backed by
five other runs in the 11.9s with traps of 116.5-117.2
I hot lapped sets of three runs with about 5-10 minutes between individual runs and 30 minutes between sets. Air temps were mid-80s to very low 90s.
With the cold air intake, the engine pulled consistently strongly, without any apparent degradation from "heat soaking." On these six runs my times from 1000' to the 1320', a very good indicator of actual power, were 1.91x-1.92x. Those are the best splits yet on my car for that interval.
Anyone running an intake that draws warm underhood air may want to try a cold air intake instead. I don't think it matters which brand. I run a Halltech...and I bought it and four filters I tried before settling on the one that produces the best results on my car.
I am happy to report that my clutch and tranny are behaving normally. Have been changing the fluid in the clutch reservoir faithfully once a week plus the day after racing...using DOT-3 fluid, nothing fancy. But I've been doing this since the car was delivered.
I am hoping that before the season ends, I'll have an opportunity to run at least once in some cool, dry Fall air.
It seems as if your car really responds well to the Halltech. Im looking at either the halltech vs. vararam, but can't decide. Im sure it will just come down to a coin flip.
What were you sixty foots on those runs? Also, how do u shift? Do u lift on the gas or powershift through all 4 gears....
12 Second Momma, Thanks. I've really enjoyed following you and your co-driver drop your times.
Quote:
Originally posted by Hye06 ...What were you sixty foots on those runs? Also, how do u shift? Do u lift on the gas or powershift through all 4 gears....
Hye06, thanks. Sixties were in the 1.7s. Best was 1.744 on the 11.88 run.
On this track, this day I was very slightly easing the throttle on the shifts to 2d and 3d and powershifting to 4th. How much easing of the throttle, if any, depends on conditions.
I'm shifting pretty quick. It's really governed by leg speed rather than arm speed. And I started wearing a driving glove on my right hand to ensure my hand does not slip off the (stock) shifter.
Hey Brent. Thanks. Before the end of the year, Steve Row and I both are hoping to run one day in a good DA.... At this point I'd settle for a DECENT DA.
Ranger, I thought I would share my results from MIR since we used the same track on the same day. The only diff. in the cars were BFG DR's and Halltech TRIC used by you. As you can see my Mph was off by 2 mph from my April runs. The 1000-1320 splits were also off from april, 1.95x to 1.91x-1.92x. This is the diff. from 40 degrees hotter temps. Looks like the TRIC and DR's really work........5.5 tenths and 2mph worth over my stock 02 this time out.
I guess to even things up I need to get a Vortech or Vararam and DR's.
Sept 22, 2002 MIR
Run 1 Run 2 Run 3 Run 4 Run 5 Run 6
10:19 10:24 10:28 11:18 11:23 12:36
R R R R L R
And before anyone begins to wonder, 02 Z06 Racer is an experienced racer and excellent driver (11.99 bone stock attests to that).
His numbers tell a good story, both compared to my numbers with the Tric cold-air intake and the DR AND his own when the air temp was much cooler.
And one more thing, 02 Z06 Racer, I'd be happy to lend you my Tric (and help you install it) and my DRs for a week...just to help you get thrown off the track at Capitol. Drop me an email if that has some appeal.
I am looking forward to some good air days coming someday soon. A -3000DA would be nice with 50 Deg air temps...
How are you changing the fluid? Turkey baster, or are you draining all of it. If so, how. The procedure to change all the fluid looked a bit involved. I was wondering if there was an easy way to drop all the fluid.
I was going to try this soon, to see if it will help my clutch out.
Originally posted by J-Rod ...How are you changing the fluid? Turkey baster, or are you draining all of it. If so, how. The procedure to change all the fluid looked a bit involved. I was wondering if there was an easy way to drop all the fluid.
I was going to try this soon, to see if it will help my clutch out.
J-Rod, I bought a large medical syringe (without the needle). It will draw out all the fluid in the reservoir (3 oz or so) in one operation. Then I clean out the reservoir with a paper towel and refill with fresh brake fluid. The key is doing this on a regular basis even if the fluid looks clear and free of debris.
You just need to be careful to keep the brake fluid off the paint.
The only way to drain it all is a bleed from below. The local Corvette specialty shop charges $115 to do this.
Good luck with your pedal and I know your times will be dropping with the DA. Let us know how it goes. The racers in New England have had some decent air. At some point we will get some too.
Ranger, Thanks for the kind words. I may take you up on the DR's. I'll be ordering an intake soon, only question is which one??? Leaning toward the VR but the Vortex is about $200 cheaper........decisions, decisions. I wish I could do a side by side comparision to see if the VR is worth the extra $.
BTW If you get the same weather conditions that I did on my 11.99 run you should be able to run 11.59 since you have been .41-.45 faster the last 2 times out. Now that should get you kicked out of Capitol.......But then again they haven't kicked you out so far.
The IAT or intake air temperature is very important to the PCM's control of timing retard.
For example, you will lose 1 degree of timing at 95 degrees air intake temp at the sensor which is located in the MAF. Another degree at 103, and another at 113, and so on until there is a loss of a full 8 degrees timing, just from the temps 'seen' by the IAT.
In testing, we found that the TRIC, returns to ambient outside temps within 7 seconds of full throttle when it is 66 degrees outside. In other words, just the heat soak of sitting still caused the IAT to "see" 99 degrees at the sensor. It took seven seconds for the sensor to see 66 degrees at full throttle through first and second.
1 degree of timing loss translates to about 3 to 4 HP on the dyno. 8 degrees of retard would be a loss of around 25 to 30 HP, which occurs at 135 degees IAT. This is the major reason dyno results vary so widely, from one dyno day to the next. The other fact is that for every 10 degees of denser air you ingest, you will gain 1% more power from the denser oxygen mix.
It is easy to see why cold air rules, even on the dyno. When we dyno test one mod against another, the water temps, and IAT temps must be kept at a constant to actually see small differences.
Water temp does not pull timing until 235 degrees.
The biggest loss of power comes from new air (aftermarket intakes) causing the EGT to rise beyond 820 F. There are four fuel enrichment codes which dump fuel into the engine to cool the cats. 820, 830, 850, and 920. The older LS1s did not go into FE mode until over 1050F. The is GMs method of preventing cooked catfish. The smell of sulfur dioxide or rotten eggs, is the result of cat overtemps.
By the way, there are no ram air intakes on the market today. We built a True Ram Air system 3 years ago, but true ram air, also means true ram hydrolock, since the water has no place else to go but into the intake.
The TRIC can be safely driven in rain storms, with no problems. It cannot be driven slowly through deep water. The vaccum signal at partial throttle is extremely high and if the water is too, the engine will stop. At that point, you are not hydrolocked, just oxygen starved. If you tow, pull the spark plugs, and turn the engine over you will be ok. If you try to restart in the water, you will probably lock it up.
Programming can deal with all of the above problems easily, except hydrolock.
The track speeds are the best indicator of horsepower.
Thanks, Jim. As alway, I appreciate the perspective you bring to these issues.
What are the circumstances (conditions) that cause the cats to exceed the temperature thresholds where fuel is then added and the engine begins to run very rich?
AutoForums.com is the premier network of enthusiast-owned
enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
We operate more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share
experiences and opinions as a community.
ranger.......you will be in the 11.70s real soon..... wait till a -1000 da.......
Linear Mode
