GM Camber kits and Hardbar.net

[Olitho]

What can I expect for camber settings front and rear with the following GM Performance Parts camber kit?
GM PART # 12480093
GM LIST: $89.69
OUR PRICE: $62.78
DESCRIPTION: PLATE KIT

Does Hardbar go to -3.0 or more?

[Subdriver]

The GM kit slams camber out to max negative not adjustible. You will get something like -3.0 front, -1.5 rear if you put them everywhere you can.

As a note, I don't know if that is just one. You may need six sets. Two for each front, one for each rear. Ouch. Or you could just get two and use them on the front lower a-arm front bolt and get more camber and use the stock ones for the front lower a-arm rear bolts to adjust caster.

In my opinion, the Harbar setup is better. You can call them essentially order whatever you want.

[speedpup]

3.0 is a bunch

[Olitho]

I am near my max camber now at -2.25 on the front. I could maybe go to -2.5 on the front stock, but I think I want to go closer to -3.0 based upon what my Hoosier wear is telling me.

The rears seem to be doing fine at -1.5.

[raddad43]

I am used to ajusting the suspension with McPherson struts (as in a MINI with camber plates). I am a little consufused by the eccentric bolts an the front suspension of my corvette. Do you need to turn them exactly the same? What happens when they are turned different amounts? I have a bubble gauge and toe in plates to measure things but lack directions. Where can I find some alignment instructions?

Thanks

[Subdriver]

The whole front suspension is tied together and I wouldn't recommend touching it unless you have the proper tools, which include some way to measure toe, camber (and caster which is the same gauge). To do this, you need a perfectly level surface which implies a laser level as well.

This is all in relation to the front suspension:
- If you rotate the front lower concentric bolt so it moves the front of the a-arm out, you will get more negative camber, you will lose some caster, and you will get a big change in toe (goes in as you add negative camber.
- If you rotate the rear lower concentric bolt so it moves the rear of the a-arm out, you get more caster, some negative camber, and a smaller impact on toe (again to toe in).
- In general, the process is to set camber, then caster, then toe as each of these sucessive changes has little impact on the one before it.

Making it harder, the concentric bolts are just that, concentric, not round, so the same rotation on each side will only result in the same change to camber/caster if the concentric bolts are in the exact same orientation on each side of the car, which is very unlikely.

If you don't have the right tools, I would take it to an alignment shop and let them do it. Give them the exact specifications you want and they should be able to get pretty close.

[raddad43]

Thanks for the information. It does not sound like a job for novice.