Depending on how sticky the track is to what you will want to launch at. DR I would start a 3k and do a shake out pass & adjust from there...But do remember I'm used to running traction impaired tracks
Assuming good track prep, I usually launch at 4000-4500 rpm w/ BFG DR's. They hook up great. I average 1.80-1.85 60 fts. I get my best launches w/ quick and smooth clutch release. I don't dump the clutch.
Definitely run in Comp mode!!
Let us know what times you run!
__________________ RWHP 400, RWTQ 391 2002 ZO6 w/ Borla quad tip stingers, Kook's headers w/ high flow cats and X-pipe, LS1 edit, Halltech trap intake, RPS clutch, 160-stat.
Take all the stuff out of your car that you don't need
Only have between 1/4 to 1/8th tank of gas.
If you haven't run the track before. I would make the first pass a shake-out pass.
Shift as close to the limiter as possible. If you don't hit it once in awhile your not shifting high enough
Another little trick is to barely trip the 2nd yellow beam it gives you rolling start of about 18 inches
go to top of this section...see ZO6 launching techniques by Ranger...very good write-up....
DR at 16 lbs air pressure, I do a burn-out, several seconds until smoke rolls to driver window, I launch at 4000rpm or rpm necessary to get a "little spin" no bog, more clutch dump than feather, shift near rev limiter (some recommend 1-2 shift 500rpm below rev limiter ?)....may need to experiment on launch rpm depending on track conditions...4000rpm launch is still rather conservative and doesn't seem to tear-up rear-end or clutch....have fun.
__________________
C5-CU, (next C6 ZO6) SOLD - 02-ZO6, RPM 2 H/C 453rwhp 403rwtq, vortex w/power duct, S2 TB, Kook headers, B&M shifter, RAM 910 clutch/flywheel, LS1-edit by Chris Robinson...best run 1.702 60ft, 7.12 1/8 (101.40mph), 11.16 1/4 (126mph).
I agree with all the above. Rangers write up comes with alot of experience. Make sure you heat them up good and go for it. Confidence is probably the best mod. But it comes with alot of seat time. Have fun and be safe.
__________________
03 Z06 H/C
9.985@138.80
Best 60' 1.41
I agree with all the above. Rangers write up comes with alot of experience. Make sure you heat them up good and go for it. Confidence is probably the best mod. But it comes with alot of seat time. Have fun and be safe.
Any chance of breaking anything launching at 4 grand if the DR's bite too hard, on a bolt on car? Or is 4 grand safe?
Any chance of breaking anything launching at 4 grand if the DR's bite too hard, on a bolt on car? Or is 4 grand safe?
Dave
That is a great question. I've talked with Chris Coriell from ECS on this. Honestly, he is not a fan of drag radials, due to the fact that they do not have "sidewall flex" like a real slick, and because of this, the risk is increased if you do get a good "bite" of having something bad happen. I'm not sure with a bolt-on car, where you are under 400 rwhp if the chances of breaking with a 4K rpm or higher launch are increased with "stock" transaxel components, but.....as they say, if you wanna play, you gotta pay. With cars making over 400 rwhp, it is probably a good idea not to launch any higher than 4K rpm (with DR's) and try to keep from dumping the clutch. My experience with the stock clutch is you will still have issues (might get some burning, might get the infamous "sticky" pedal) and this is why you see so many switching over to a more stout clutch if they have plans of drag racing more than 1-2 times a year (I'm going with an Excedy Dual myself in two weeks).
And, even with "hardened" components and true drag slicks, there is still a chance of breakage. Nothing is 100% certain (except taxes and death. ), and all one can hope for is minimizing the odds of failure.
Back into the water. Pull forward and heat the dr's for 4 seconds once you see smoke count to 5 (1 alligator, 2 alligator, 3 alligator, etc). Put her up to 4 grand and let her rip depending on track condition you may get a 1.7 60.
drive around the water, back into it with the rears, quick spin the tires in first, pull about 5 feet in front of the water box, raise the revs to 5000, drop the clutch, reach the left foot over to the brake and keep the right on the gas, hold the revs around 5000-5500 and roast them suckers for a good 5 seconds (especially if their new).
Proceed up to the stage box. I clip the first amber, drop the car into neutral, pump the clutch several times, re-engage 1st and clip the second amber. On 17" BFG DRs, I would raise the revs to about 6000 and quick slip the clutch out of the hole. Best 60ft about 1.62 at HRP. That place usually has good prep, especially if you get there early before the FWD ricers take over and water everything down.
Good luck!
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'06 MS Z06
11.31 at 123, 1.80 60ft
showroom stock
How hard is it to work the clutch/break to do a burnout?
I have never done it before lol. All my races have been Roll-ons on the street cause I could never hook up with the current tires.
all pretty embarrassing questions but they need to be answered before I break something hah.
The clutch/brake work with your feet, sounds harder than it is.
I had about 50 passes in before I tried it, I was scared also of embarrassing myself, but it took no practice, just reved it up and dumped the clutch. It takes a second or two to actually start moving forward that is plenty of time to hit the brake. The harder part is not hitting the rev limiter and adjusting your pressure on the pedal to stop it from happening. For me, the hardest part is thinking about how to stop the burnout withour moving too far ahead.
Another problem I face, and this just may be poor track conditions so may not apply to you, is that when I'm staged, my car sometimes rolls past the lights. I assume the track is perfectly flat, but it is not and sometimes I have to use the emergency brake ot prevent this.
If I were you, I waste my first pass0 or two and try to get comfortable.
Oh and I almost forgot, don't forget, the clock starts when you break the beam, not when you launch. Do not worry about reaction time for at least a couple of weeks until your really comfortable.
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), and all one can hope for is minimizing the odds of failure.
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