Help with Roadracing set up ...

[STEFANIA]

Hello fellow adrenaline junkies ...
I've decided to take this roadracing thing a little more seriously and I'm trying to get my car ready for future track days/SCCA certification (March 31); however, I need you guys' advice on a few of things. I'm hoping you can help me out.

Ok ... here we go:
1. Which brand of brake pads to use with Eradispeed rotors.

I currently have the Hawk HP Plus (Ferro-Carbon Club/AutoX) Pads and they are just about done. Is there something just as good or better that isn't so loud? The squeeking get's old quick! My rotors are almost spent as well. Should I go with slotted vs. ported next time due to cracking?

2. Coolers ... Oil and Transmission.

I don't have either and it's going to get REAL hot and soon. Do I want to stay away from the combo oil/tranny cooler like if been told?

3. Tires ...

I've heard Hoosier and Kuhmo are the better roadracing slicks offered. However, I am leaning towards the Nitto NT-01. Is this a bad choice ... has anyone run the Nitto's and the Hoosier/Kuhmo's to offer a comparison on performance and tire wear?

4. Good prefab cage/rollbar manufacturers ...

I have dreaded putting anything other than my harness bar in the car because this is my daily driver ... at least for now it is. But I've been told that I really should have something to protect me and I agree. Would a rollbar be sufficient or should I have a cage? Just in case it matters ... the track is Texas World Speedway ...

If anyone has connections on any of these items ... please, if you could, let me know. As you know ... this can get expensive quick!

Thanks in advance for your help!
Stephanie

[mikahb]

I'll take a first crack at this one since I'm up so early (yawn).

Originally Posted by STEFANIA

Hello fellow sdrenaline junkies ...
I've decided to take this roadracing thing a little more seriously and I'm trying to get my car ready for future track days/SCCA certification (March 31); however, I need you guys' advice on a few of things. I'm hoping you can help me out.

Ok ... here we go:
1. Which brand of brake pads to use with Eradispeed rotors.

I currently have the Hawk HP Plus (Ferro-Carbon Club/AutoX) Pads and they are just about done. Is there something just as good or better that isn't so loud? The squeeking get's old quick! My rotors are almost spent as well. Should I go with slotted vs. ported next time due to cracking?

The Hawks are a pretty good pad, that's what I run, I think many of the T1 guys run Carbotech also. Mine wear very quickly, but offer great stopping power even when really hot. If you are considering changing rotors, many go with NAPA "disposable" rotors. You should be able to get a couple weekends out of a set minimum and they run right at $100/set of four - can't beat that.

2. Coolers ... Oil and Transmission.

I don't have either and it's going to get REAL hot and soon. Do I want to stay away from the combo oil/tranny cooler like if been told?

I'm not an authority on this one, but I've not yet seen a T1 car without separate coolers for each.

3. Tires ...

I've heard Hoosier and Kuhmo are the better roadracing slicks offered. However, I am leaning towards the Nitto NT-01. Is this a bad choice ... has anyone run the Nitto's and the Hoosier/Kuhmo's to offer a comparison on performance and tire wear?

I think Kumho 710's are the current tire of choice for ultimate stickiness, but they do wear very quickly. The Hoosiers are supposed to wear a little better, but I think they give some overall grip up. The only experience I have with Nitto's is passing guys who were running them with my 710's on.

4. Good prefab cage/rollbar manufacturers ...

I have dreaded putting anything other than my harness bar in the car because this is my daily driver ... at least for now it is. But I've been told that I really should have something to protect me and I agree. Would a rollbar be sufficient or should I have a cage? Just in case it matters ... the track is Texas World Speedway ...

If you're going to do any kind of SCCA road racing (presumably T1), a rollcage is required, not optional. This is a big commitment to make - one I've not been able to make yet because:
1) I'm guessing I'm looking at between $10k and $12k to take my stock '02 up to T1 specs, and
2) You have to cut a lot of car out to fit a cage in - inner door panels, window glass, dash, etc.
3) There ain't no turnin back - once you cut up the car and weld in a cage, it's a racecar forever (harder to sell when I get my C6Z )

If anyone has connections on any of these items ... please, if you could, let me know. As you know ... this can get expensive quick!

Thanks in advance for your help!
Stephanie

If you're seriously considering setting your car up to be safe and competitive for road racing, you probably ought to give the guys at Phoenix Performance a call - they're the experts on this stuff. Although, there are a lot of guys on this forum who know their stuff very well also. Good luck Stephanie, have fun!

[OhOneZOhSiXXX]

Hawk, Carbotech, Performance Friction, Wilwood, Cobalt, etc...all make pretty good pads. All depends on the application. Keep in mind there is more to brakes than pads and rotors. There are dozens of threads on how to improve your brakes. Check them out.

I would not even put Nittos in the same class as a Hoosier or Kuhmo 710. A nitto is a great street tire, and an okay track tire. I dont know if they shave those or not (as they do the Toyo RA-1) , but if they did then maybe that would be more comparible. There are dozens of threads on good track tires.

You can check the internet for rotors. I found a slotted pair off of a famous bidding site for $60. Definitely want vented and slotted, not drilled.

A roll cage is your call. Mikahb makes a good point about them. If you get one, make sure that it is installed to actually be a safety device and not just a decorative fixture.

Good luck!

[MSiska]

Steph....don't use the eradispeed rotors. They will spider crack around the cross-drilled holes. Like was mentioned, the stock rotors (Napa bought) are fine.

Also stainless steel brake lines and a good brake fluid (I use ATE Superblue).

[injuner]

`1. I have heard nothing but good things about the Carbotech pads, they are definitely worth looking into. Also, as was stated before, run the 25 buck rotors for the track. Slotted and drilled will only help them crack faster. If you give your rotors a cool down lap, it should also increase their life.

2. From what I have heard, the combo oil tranny cooler is probably fine unless you plan on having a dedicated track car. The T1 folks run separate coolers, and I don't think I qualify as an expert for that yet.

3. The Nittos will work fine for DE events, as you speed up you might want to progress to better tires.

4. Looking at rollbar/rollcage and protection, lots of folks who use their Z06s as track cars will eventually install a roll bar, but If you are planning on doing competitive racing like T1 you need a full weld in roll cage. You might want to look at other Z's will different roll bars installed at a track event before putting one in. The debate of roll bar vs cage also depends on if you drive your car on the street. A full cage is not fun on the street, and isn't always the safest thing if you don't have a helmet on in case of a wreck. The full cages also do turn you vehicle into a race car, and limit resale value. If you do a cage, get a pro to weld in a custom one. In fact, I think SCCA no longer allows the bolt in cages for racing.

[ZO6/Les]

I ran the Carbotech pads, like them best - track only.

Rotors - IMO avoid slotted or drilled, stay with solid surface, change often - NAPA works great and are CHEAP.

Kuhmo or Hossier, I ran the Hoosiers - great tires, other like the Kuhmo's. Go with a serious track tire, not a compromise.

I ran without coolers - if you are runnng in DE events you need to run a cool-down lap every 15 minutes or so, otherwise seperate coolers are recommended.

DJ Worm and others here are excellent sources of information on road racing tips.

Les

[DJWorm]

Stephania,

Before I offer some concrete suggsestions I need to clarify your intentions.

You state that you want to get into "RoadRacing" more seriously but then mention "track days" and only running on a single track.

There are different types of roadracing track events
1. Sanctioned roadracing events such as SCCA T1, SCCA GT-1, SCCA World Challenge, ALMS and Rolex events where you are racing other cars, on the track at the same time in a basically unrestricted manner, fender to fender and swapping paint sometimes. Usually requires a dedicated race car.
2. SCCA Solo I Performance Driving Events including Time Trials, Hillclimbs and timed and untimed track days which may also be sanctioned by Porsche or BMW clubs or pay and play track events. These are usually restricted events. Can be a dedicated car but can also be an upgraded dual use car.

The preperation and progression for each is different, so to be specific I need to find out your intentions.

[Arnoldir]

Hello Stefania,

I bought my 02 Z as a new leftover and drove it about 18 months before having all the T-1 spec safety gear added by Phoenix Performance.




With proper padding (Sorbithane and Tempur foam) I do not feel the cage is a safety hazzard as long as the harness is used and is snug (6pt Schroth Hybrid)

The only parts I had to have removed to fit the full cage were the door speakers, passenger airbag, and ducts that connect the dash vents to the blower box.

I still have power windows and locks, heat, defrost, and AC, and whats left of the stereo.

I added the removable steering wheel to make it possible to climb out if the door gets jambed in a wreck, but with the door open getting in and out with it in place is no problem and I'm 6'2" and 200lbs.

This is a street driven, and Chevy dealership inspected car. just feels like a racer.

An alternate would be to have the back half of the cage installed for starters, and add the cage if you want later. Search for Member MYSR71 who went this route with Phoenix Perf, and was still able to retain stock belts due to minor relocation of main hoop.

Bottom line, aside from loosing the base in the stereo it is still a streetable car.

My 2 cents, please value accordingly.

[panzer]

I also changed out my stock brake lines for the stainless steel type before my first NASARACING event.

[STEFANIA]

Wow ... thanks guys for all the posted comments, suggestions and advice. I'll go down the line to reply ...

TIRES ...

Originally Posted by mikahb

The only experience I have with Nitto's is passing guys who were running them with my 710's on.

NICE! I can see that everyone agrees that the Nitto's don't measure up. Looks like I will go with the Kumho 710's.

CAGE:

Originally Posted by mikahb

If you're going to do any kind of SCCA road racing (presumably T1), a rollcage is required, not optional. This is a big commitment to make - one I've not been able to make yet ... There ain't no turnin back - once you cut up the car and weld in a cage, it's a racecar forever.

This exactly has been my problem. I went to see this guy (Greg) here in Houston to ask him about a custom cage only to walk out 2 hours later more confused and undecided than when I went in. My car is a 2004 with under 20K miles and at the time, I felt (and he agreed) that the car had too much value to chop it up. He said I should sell the car for an older one and I agreed ... but now, I have changed my mind to keep it and get a daily driver.

Originally Posted by injuner

The debate of roll bar vs cage also depends on if you drive your car on the street. A full cage is not fun on the street, and isn't always the safest thing if you don't have a helmet on in case of a wreck.

You are totally right on that one ...

Originally Posted by Arnoldir

An alternate would be to have the back half of the cage installed for starters, and add the cage if you want later. Search for Member MYSR71 who went this route with Phoenix Perf, and was still able to retain stock belts due to minor relocation of main hoop.

Bottom line, aside from loosing the base in the stereo it is still a streetable car.

I will consider this a viable option ... thanks!

BRAKES:

Originally Posted by OhOneZOhSiXXX

There are dozens of threads on how to improve your brakes. Check them out.

I will check those out ... thanks.

Originally Posted by MSiska

Steph....don't use the eradispeed rotors. They will spider crack around the cross-drilled holes. Like was mentioned, the stock rotors (Napa bought) are fine.

Also stainless steel brake lines and a good brake fluid (I use ATE Superblue).

Mike, you are totally right about the eradispeed ... that is what is on the car now. Although I have had them for over a year ... they are riddled with spider cracks. As for fluid ... I just bought some brakebleeders and was about to do a fluid change. I bought the Valvoline SynPower ... it supposidly has a boiling point that is 100 degrees higher than the stock fluid. If I change the fluid after every track day will this be good enough or should I get the ATE Superblue?

Originally Posted by panzer

I also changed out my stock brake lines for the stainless steel type before my first NASARACING event.

MSiska made the same suggestion ... is this an easy task that can be done on a friday night?

COOLERS:

Originally Posted by Z06/Les

I ran without coolers - if you are runnng in DE events you need to run a cool-down lap every 15 minutes or so, otherwise seperate coolers are recommended.

I am terrified of cooking my transmission due the fact that the last time I was out there I got a warning message stating the 'transmission fluid is warm' ... which means it was hotter than hell! I was even shifting the car into 6th each time I got to the front straight to let it cool. I had never seen this before so I asked another Z owner that is always at the track. He said ... congradulations Stephanie! I was like, what the hell is he talking about. He told me that few people see that warning so I must have been driving the hell out of the car. I was not excited to say the least and sat out the next 2 sessions in fear that I had cooked something. I think I will go with the separate coolers ... which ones are the better ones?

Originally Posted by DJWorm

You state that you want to get into "RoadRacing" more seriously but then mention "track days" and only running on a single track. ... The preperation and progression for each is different, so to be specific I need to find out your intentions.

Being that I am so new at this ... I am not educated enough to be able to make a decision at to which group I want to get in to. Do you think I should start with the Solo I Performance Events? They sound less hairy, no?

I want to get certified and planned on getting a certification at TWS on the 31st (Fassst Driving School will be at the track ... has anyone heard of them b/c I have not). From what I understand you need more than one, is that correct? I attended Skip Barber @ Laguna Seca in 2004 ... will that count as the second cert? Do I need to know what series I want to race in before getting certified? WOW ... so many questions.

[panzer]

Yes on the brake line swap on a Friday night. Presents the opportunity to switch to synthetic brake fluid also.

[MySR71]

Originally Posted by STEFANIA

I will consider this a viable option ... thanks!

This link has a few pictures. As is mentioned, it is rear half of a T1 cage. The front half can be added at a later time. The cage is welded.

Phoenix Roll Bar

PS I have since solved the oil temperature issue by putting in a higher temp oil thermostat.

[FOXBAT]

Here's my two cents:

Trans/differential coolers will preserve your tranny and readend. Especially since your dash has already told you! Doug Rippie makes some good ones. If after a DE you hear whining out back, then you better change out the fluids quick!

As for tires, I run heat-treated Nitto RIIs on CCW Classics. These are DOT A-rated rubber. I do not have any experience with the Nitto RIs so I cannot offer any comparison.

A suspension mod that you might consider would be the install of T1 sway bars with polyurethane bushings and teflon lined end links. While these will not directly affect your ride, they will improve your vehicle's cornering attitude.

And if you do go with the T1 sway bars, the next thing on your list will be a supportive racing bucket as the G's will build and the abbs will be exercised!

[B_P_fox]

Originally Posted by MySR71

This link has a few pictures. As is mentioned, it is rear half of a T1 cage. The front half can be added at a later time. The cage is welded.

Phoenix Roll Bar

PS I have since solved the oil temperature issue by putting in a higher temp oil thermostat.

I spoke with someone at Phoenix a few months back and was told they will not do a partial cage in the Z06 any longer. He said the rear half does nothing to protect against the windshield collapsing in the event of a rollover. Too bad as I am not ready to put a full cage in my ride just yet.

[STEFANIA]

Originally Posted by MySR71

This link has a few pictures. As is mentioned, it is rear half of a T1 cage. The front half can be added at a later time. The cage is welded.

Phoenix Roll Bar

PS I have since solved the oil temperature issue by putting in a higher temp oil thermostat.

WOW ... that looks awesome. Presently, that seems like the perfect thing for me. So you can add the front part of the cage at al later time?