Has anyone driven at Texas Motorsports Ranch? What is the track like and how does it compare to TWS? There are some events there this summer that I was considering...
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mgm shift knob, tinted windows, exhaust plate, shorty antenna, alum. dead & gas pedals, Andy's partition, EVO2 seat, Teamtech belts, 2-tip stingers, Hardbar, V-1, CCW wheels, Mich. Pilot Sport Cups,more on the way..
TWS - 2.9 mile course is the most popular (It has other configs)
Motorsport Ranch 1.7 mile course
TWS - Very fast front straight (140-150mph) and a few 100mph turns
Motorsport Ranch - Top speed for front straight is 115-120 and has some 80mph turns
TWS - Very fast and fun track
Motorsport Ranch - Fast and technical track. Several turns are off camber.
Both are great tracks. I have a little more fun at TWS because of the garage setup (shaded area for drivers and cars) and the longer track. Motosport Ranch is a great track and very challenging.
Originally posted by jswatek By technical do you mean tight and slow? Is your car going to be ready soon?
2-3 weeks....you know how it goes, adding a blower. If I keep this Enterprise Tahoe any longer, I'm going to start modding it. I saw you got tires..congratulations!
Ok Jason, slow down already! At the rate you are adding horsepower that thing will be over 1000 by the next time I see you! That is awesome! Can't wait to see it! Also I'm getting some stingers so I can hear my car when I'm near yours!
2-3 weeks....you know how it goes, adding a blower. If I keep this Enterprise Tahoe any longer, I'm going to start modding it. I saw you got tires..congratulations!
Be careful. Adding a blower then taking it on a road course means you have to be even more gentle on the throttle.
Hey guys - jswatek & Z06 Dust - lets just plan on doing an event up at the Ranch later this year. Although I am beginning to freak out about oil temps - not sure I want to put the Z on a road course for 30 minutes in Texas in July. Might be time to do a cooler.
Originally posted by Porsche Killer Hey guys - jswatek & Z06 Dust - lets just plan on doing an event up at the Ranch later this year. Although I am beginning to freak out about oil temps - not sure I want to put the Z on a road course for 30 minutes in Texas in July. Might be time to do a cooler.
Look at my post under pit row about air flow. I have talked to Royal Purple and Synerg Racing about oil temps. From listening to thier engineers this is what I have conclued.
This is my MHO: I would first use an oil like Amsoil, Royal Purple or Synerg Racing. I would plan on change the oil when you get back from the event if oil temps are in the 290 range. If it was Mobil 1 I would think about changing it before I when home.
An oil cooler will cool the oil thus longer oil life and less oil changes.
Thanks for the info. Any other lubrication issues for hot track days ? Differential ? Wheel bearing grease ? OK - here is the deal - I have been driving the car flat out on track events knowing that brakes, tires, rotors are taking a beating. I am OK with that. What else am I abusing by doing these events?
Thanks for the info. Any other lubrication issues for hot track days ? Differential ? Wheel bearing grease ? OK - here is the deal - I have been driving the car flat out on track events knowing that brakes, tires, rotors are taking a beating. I am OK with that. What else am I abusing by doing these events?
I like to think in terms of "consumables" not a beating.
As a side note Chetah aka Brett Paul and myself are thinking about putting on one of our homepages information that focuses on folks like us who put their Vette’s on the track. Oh well someday.
Chetah and I both had problems with our torque tubes bending. We think it is a result of taking the high line off of the straight and on to turn 1 at TWS. I know we are seeing speeds in the 145 mph neighborhood. He did that on his C5 coupe and I on the Z06.
The transmission will over heat after about twenty minutes. I have gotten this confirmed by a GM engineer and personal experience and experience of others has confirmed this. GM motorsports sells a transmission cooler. I know they went to the trouble to report transmission over temps on the DIC. You don’t spend engineering money to do this cause it is cool.
That is about it.
On the rotors please just use the OEM. I get mine from Team Chevy (do a web search) at $53 a piece and toss them away when I see hair line cracks. Your usage will vary and track like Hallet will really "consume" your brake system. But OH the fun!!
If you are having problem with a mushy pedal have you tried a better brake fluid? I use Motul at over 500 F dry boiling the next best fluid is SRF. Bleed your brakes before each event.
I could go on that is why I need information in one place like my home page. But think about this..., if you have ever seen Brett drive, and his is a better driver then myself, he can turn some outstanding times at TWS or MSR in a stock Z06. You don’t get a much faster stock car then the Z06.
Thanks for the info. Any other lubrication issues for hot track days ? Differential ? Wheel bearing grease ? OK - here is the deal - I have been driving the car flat out on track events knowing that brakes, tires, rotors are taking a beating. I am OK with that. What else am I abusing by doing these events?
Hey Dave, thanks for the Kudos.
PK- as long as your are on street tires, you will not wear the car too bad, even in Texas summers. But if you are running slicks, that is when you will start going through "consumables" faster. Try to get some extra ducting to the brakes, that will help the brake fade a little more as well as braided brake lines. Other than that, the stock pads and rotors are very good for a reasonable price. I believe one of our members/sponsors can get you gm products for a great price. I currently get mine through gmpartsdirect.
Keep an eye on your rubber parts near your brakes, as they MAY start melting under extreme conditions. This is why I recommend some additional direction of the brake ducting. If you can keep those cooler, you will be better off. It will help alleviate some of the brake fade as well as melting rubber parts in the vicinity of the brakes.
One other thing, make sure you are running an extra quart of oil ALL of the time, and check it every other run, or 30-40 minutes of track time. Keep it a quart over full, as oil starvation, more than oil temps is what will kill the engine. If you notice a "low oil pressure" warning at any time, (usually will occur during high G turns) bring the car in and put more oil in it. If you still get that warning you are REALLY running hard, I recommend getting an accusump, or oil accumulator to prevent oil starvation.
Like Dave said (TX02Z06) I could go on and on, but that gets the highlights.
Originally posted by Chetah
Keep an eye on your rubber parts near your brakes, as they MAY start melting under extreme conditions. This is why I recommend some additional direction of the brake ducting. If you can keep those cooler, you will be better off. It will help alleviate some of the brake fade as well as melting rubber parts in the vicinity of the brakes.
I melted the tie rod ends and lower control arms boots on both sides last year. Replaced everything this winter and used exhaust wrap to protect them, also fabricated some more brake ducting. I need to post some pictures, because so far this year everything is working great. Even after punishing the brakes a Road America.
We will definately see you at some events this summer. TWS is awful hard on the car coming off of the front straight. People break suspension parts there regularly and wheel bearings take a beating but at least the speeds are relatively high to help cool stuff. I plan on just shortening the run time a little through the hottest part of the summer....
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I saw you got tires..congratulations! 
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