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Old 03-06-2006, 10:49 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Open Trailer "Ramp Length" questions

I will be buying an open trailer for my Z06 soon. I am down to 2 choices. Top Brand trailer only has a 2ft beaver tail with 5ft ramps and the Econo-Trailer has a 5ft beaver tail with 5ft ramps.

Problem I have is that the Top Brand trailer has a full wrap tounge and appears to be better quality. On the Econo-Trailer, the tounge is only welded to the first cross member, the center tube is welded to the first two crossmembers.

Bonus question: Do you typically leave your car in neutral? Both of these trailers will make it difficult/impossible to open the doors after it is loaded. It rains a lot here, so I would like to keep the windows closed.

I would like to go with Top Brand trailer, but am concerned that the Z06 will bottom out when coming up onto the trailer. Hopefully someone can comment based on their experience - thanks.
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Old 03-06-2006, 11:09 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Wether or not there is clearance for loading is variable, depending on:
- amount of lowering
- angle of beaver tail
- length of beaver tail
- length of ramps

You can "modify" the approach angle to gain additional clearance, if necessary, by:
- using the tongue jack to raise the front of the trailer and reducing approach angle
(Note: this needs to be done with the trailer hooked up to the tow vehicle)
- using 2x12(s) to riase and extend the ramps where they contact the ground. Beveling the approach edge at 45* helps.

While towing the car needs to be:
- in Neutral with
- Emergency Brake ON
- tied down with wratch straps using
- "T" Hooks in the shipping slots on the frame rail.
DO NOT tie down using suspension pieces.

Most trrailers have fold down fenders on the left to allow clearance to open the door. If more clearance is necessary an assistant can move those ramp 2x12's and place them under the rear wheels on the trailer to raise the door for clearance.
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Last edited by DJWorm : 03-06-2006 at 11:11 AM.
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Old 03-06-2006, 11:56 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I've got an enclosed trailer with a load height of I think 18" when the trailer is level. Yes this makes a difference on the length of ramp you need. I believe my door is 6.5 or 7 feet + a 4 foot flap, + I extend out an additional 2 feet with 2 X 12's I still rub the front spoiler a tad when pulling in.

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Old 03-06-2006, 03:04 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I don't know anything about the Top Brand or Econo-Trailer. I have an 18 ft Bri-mar:
http://www.bri-mar.com/trailerdetail...&categorysid=4

Mine isn't a full diamond deck like that picture though, which saves 500 lbs. This trailer has about a five foot bobtail and five foot ramps and I still need to use a 2x12" set of boards to lift the nose prior to the ramps as DJ described.

For trailering, you'll want to have it in neutral. Not good to have the drivetrain getting shocked back and forth the whole trip. My trailer has fold forward fenders on both sides allowing both doors to open once the car is loaded onto the trailer.
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Old 03-06-2006, 03:26 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Uhhh uhh uhh ...hey bevis..

uhhhhh hhhhhh hh

he said beaver..

Uhh hlhhhhhh
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Old 03-06-2006, 03:30 PM   #6 (permalink)
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You gotta love this place for answers! vwphoto told me you can get the "T" hooks here:
http://www.awdirect.com/awdirect/fin...fm?itemid=8979 I bought them and the are great. Someone also sell a "window valet" that rolls your windows up with your key fob. My Firebird doors cleared but the Vette doors don't. It's a pain crawling out the window but my fenders are welded. I went with a MacLander trailer out of Iowa. It's your Z on the trailer. Do you really want an econo trailer???
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Old 03-06-2006, 03:31 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wvphoto
Uhhh uhh uhh ...hey bevis..

uhhhhh hhhhhh hh

he said beaver..

Uhh hlhhhhhh
hea hea hea yeah yeah beaver yeah



I believe I have 10 foot ramps, no need for xtra wood. trailer man out of east texas made it.
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Old 03-06-2006, 07:33 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I use one of these when I trailer my car:

http://www.kwikload.com/gallery.htm

They are not cheap, but they tow like a dream and are the easiest trailer to load that I've ever used. Both fenders are removable too. HTH

Jim
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Old 03-06-2006, 10:01 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I am selling my open trailer with extra 10 ft aluminum ramps. I am right outside NYC PM me if interested in both or either one.
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Old 03-06-2006, 11:03 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Thanks for all the info. The fenders are welded on the trailers I am looking at as well, but they will lose the battle with the Die Grinder. I would make the left fender removable at the very least.

I did see the link for the tie downs. Do you use 4 or more?


uhhhhh hhhhhh hh

he said tail too...

Uhh hlhhhhhh
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Old 03-07-2006, 07:31 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kmagvette
Thanks for all the info. The fenders are welded on the trailers I am looking at as well, but they will lose the battle with the Die Grinder. I would make the left fender removable at the very least.
Most trailer manufacturers will provide you with removable fenders for a small extra fee.
I have an 18' open deck trailer with 5' beavertail, 5' ramps, dual axle, single axle brakes, with a side mounted spare tire, removable (bolt on) driver side fender, and breakaway kit. The vendor, Kraftsman Trailers in Ramseur, NC, built it in a week, painted to my color choice, with an installed brake controller and a receiving hitch/ball for just under $2000.
I think it was a steal.
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