I'm not sure what I'm going to do...
- add a radio system
- add a cool suit system
- carry a little extra fuel
- put some ballast in
- put some speakers back in
- hit the gym and start pounding the weights
- eat lots of french fries and potato chips
I think most people who are running fast will agree that the car is fast enough in stock form and you are better off spending your money to get more track time learning to be faster. When you become fast things like cooling down the oil, cooling down the transmission, cooling down the differential, and cooling down the brake rotors take priory. They have for me.
I agree. $300 worth of track time or school will make you a lot faster than any fancy air cleaner.
__________________
My Z06 is a hybrid: It burns gasoline AND rubber
I'm surprised the zip-tie mod isn't getting more votes. It is virtually free and gets cold air into the engine almost, if not as well, as any of the other expensive systems.
Can you take the outer air filter cover off (zip-tie mod) and use a K&N filter in SCCA?
I run a vortex and love it. If I were to do it again I'd get the TRAP w/ the plat cutout. I do agree that your money is better spent on good fluids, good brake pads, cooling, and track time. Oh yeah a set of harnesses are great too. I can't leave anything alone so I've done full bolt-ons!
Crap if the vette came with 500 horses it still be stock, so of course I'd need to spend money to add more =)
Hey Sub SHOTGUN I weigh 220 is that enogh for some good ballast? =)
Too late!
I installed a FAST helmet cooling system last weekend. Filled with water and ice, my car now weighs 3307 with fully suited driver and about 6 gallons of gas. As I average about 5.5 mpg on the track, I'll be able to run a race using about 9 gallons of fuel. So, if I start with 14 gallons of fuel, I'll come in at about 20 lbs over the weight limit, which is close enough for me.
However, I may instruct at a PCA event this year and who knows, maybe I'll be stationed in Norfolk next. We can get together at VIR. I'd love to drive that track.
Got the Halltech. You can REALLY hear the air getting sucked into the intake at 30 MPH +. Damn, I STILL love that sound. Sometimes, when I am getting on the freeway, no cars, don't care, I floor it to 120 and just love the crap out of it. God forbid I am at one of those freeway traffic control lights....just like at the track. The funniest thing is that the people next to me, and behind me hearing me REV the engine to 4K+ before I drop the clutch and nail it...one hell of a way to get on the freeway...
1. Modified and opened up Stock air box, filter tray and air box lid.
2. Sealed K&N filter
3. Hand polished and descreened MAF,
4. Katech CNC ported Throttle Body with hand polishing
5. Modified pivot shaft
6. Tapered leading and tailing edge of the TB blade with polishing to increase laminar flow at WOT.
__________________
Williams GT Engineering @ www.WilliamsGTEng.us
F1 Technology, Parts and Preparation for Competition Corvettes AMSOIL Online Store
Wow DJ. Some pretty cool mods there. I wish I understood why you made half of them though. I'm guessing that you don't change the intake because of racing rules?
I like the design of the Vararam or Halltech Trap. I think I like using the stock intakes more than converting the license plate cover though. I don't think you could go wrong with either IMO.
1. The '01's had a screened MAF...the '02 and later didn't. Although the screen helped laminar flow through the MAF on an unmodified system it decreased flow in a modified system. Hence I descreened the MAF myself when I modified my system and hand polished it myself. You need to do this very carefully otherwise you will ruin the MAF if you touch a wire.
2. I decided to modify my '02 filter box and lid when the '02's came out with a larger opening.
- I first cut out the middle support bar of the filter tray (more flow to the filter)
- and cut out larger windows in it's vertical leading edge (allows more cooler air into the filter). This allows the lid to snorkle cool air off the front of the radiator cover.
- Installed K&N filter ( I did not zip tie because I felt that water can ehter the filter when opening the hood and an open element allows more hot air in.
- I opened up the lower front half of the airbox lid from stanchion to stanchion and down to the leading edge. I also opened up the inside of the airbox lid removing all the ribs.
- I placed closed cell foam around and under the sides of the airbox lid to prevent it from snorkeling hot air from above
3. Kateck did the CNC porting and modified the pivot arm to make it thinner at WOT and cut of the excess screw length to be flush mount.
4. I epoxied the hole like a Shaner
5. I then hand polished the TB further and blended it and port matched it to the intake manifold.
6. I looked at the TB blade and found that it was really kind of thick and blunt head on ( [==] ) at WOT. Although it needs to approximate the sides of the TB venturi when closed I felt I could make it more aerodynamic and still keep it's tolerances.
I removed it from the pivot shaft and was able to double tapper it on both sides to resemble a dihedral ( <==> ) crosssection shape and polished it to remove it's cross hatch pattern (which was necessary with the thicker shaft)
I think now I would just go with a Vararam or Halltech unit
Kateck did the CNC porting and modified the pivot arm to make it thinner at WOT and cut of the excess screw length to be flush mount.
Thanks DJ for the explanation. This is one of the mods that I was most curious about. Modding the pivot arm to make it thinner at WOT? What does this do?
Quote:
I think now I would just go with a Vararam or Halltech unit
A lot less work. Well.. Not to install it, but less modifying work.
AutoForums.com is the premier network of enthusiast-owned
enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
We operate more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share
experiences and opinions as a community.
A lot less work. Well.. Not to install it, but less modifying work.
Linear Mode
