Track advice

[Electron Blue]

I just signed up for the biggest mod to date, the driver mod. I figured instead of a cam right now I would rather learn how to drive what I've got to the max. So I enrolled in a high performance drive class. Being a first timer, what advice can everyone give me to make my experience better. What are things that you would have done differently or wished you would have asked? Class will be on 3/29 so I've got time for you guys to prep me!!!

[ELF Z06]

You are 100% correct in the fact that this is truely the biggest and best mod.
Not all instructor are the same...some will suit your needs and skills better than others, so much of what you get out of your classes will depend on how the two of you work together.
Good luck and have a great time.

Tony #54

[Bad Machine]

Keep an open mind! Everything is not what it seems and you will find out just how much you really don't know. When we learn how to drive we are taught certain things that are "old school" and they just don't work for high performance driving. When I went to Spring Mountain I left the ego home, some students did'nt and they wound up learning how to off-road with a Z06. Hope this helps.

Have a blast and a safe trip!

[dmtnt]

Good advice from the above posters. I would add the suggestion to flush your brake fluid and put in something better, i.e. Motul 600.

[Silver Bullet]

Get the book Solo1 and Solo2 or soemthing like that.
It's ared cover and most places sell it (racer wholesale).
It covers basic concepts that will have you one large step ahead of the curve when you hit the track.


I instruct for NASA (and others) and normally tell my students assume when you track out the track is 2 feet less room. This way when car (tires) starts to hit some real slip angles you are covered till you get used to the experience.

[Electron Blue]

Thanks! Got my list: 1. Listen, 2. Leave ego 3. Change brake fluid (how about tranny and rear too? What to use?) 4. Get Solo 1/2 and read.

Anything safety wise?

[Bad Machine]

Originally Posted by Electron Blue

Thanks! Got my list: 1. Listen, 2. Leave ego 3. Change brake fluid (how about tranny and rear too? What to use?) 4. Get Solo 1/2 and read.

Anything safety wise?

Are you using your car?

[Subdriver]

My recommendations for car prep for your first DE:
- Put in fresh synthetic engine oil, tranny fluid and gear lube.
I use AMSOIL Series 2000 Synthetic 20w50 in my car, but this oil doesn't meet GM Standard 4718M which is the standard GM states in the owners manual, as it is too heavy. On the track, without an oil cooler, oil temps can get very high (like 300 if you don't back off) so most T1 cars have an oil cooler and run a 50 weight.
AMSOIL Series 2000 20w50
I think this oil is a decent alternative if you want to comply with GM Standard 4718M:
AMSOIL Series 2000 0w30
This oil is higher in the 30 weight viscosity range than Mobil 1 5w30 so is much closer to a 40 weight than the 5w30 Mobil 1 (11.2 vs 10 at 212F), and its high temp high shear rating is 3.4 vs 3.08 for 5w30 Mobil 1.
Your tranny and diff will also get very hot and it is not uncommon to see high temp warnings on the tranny. The tranny takes a DEXRON III fluid.
I use AMSOIL ATF:
AMSOIL ATF
The diff takes a synthetic 75w90.
AMSOIL recently came out with a new severe service 75w90 gear lube:
AMSOIL Severe Gear Extreme Pressure Synthetic 75w90
I don't use slip lock additive and my diff doesn't chatter, but some diff's may need it.
AMSOIL Slip-Lock Differential Additive
This pump is also very handy for the tranny and diff:
AMSOIL Hand Pump
- Bleed the brakes with a good fluid.
I used Motul RBF 600 for years and it is a good fluid. Late last season I switched to Wilwood EXP 600 Plus which has a 626F dry and 417F wet boiling point and is essentially the same price as Motul. The Wilwood is just as good as the Motul. I chose Wilwood as it is an American company and Motul is French. As a note, the owners manual specifies DOT 3 brake fluid. Both these fluids far exceed DOT 3, but they are not DOT 3. I know one person who had warranty work denied as he had ATE Super Blue in (not DOT 3 and pretty identifiable as such).
- Check the tires for tread life, set pressure to something like 32F, 29R cold and keep a close eye on them. If you check them hot they will gain 8-10 lbs. That is normal. Don't bleed them back down hot to 32 and 29 or they will be way too low.

Other things to consider, but really aren't necessary for your first time out:
- SS brake lines. I use Goodridge with AN fittings.
- Better pads. I use the Carbotech line. XP8 front, Panther Plus rear would be a decent start for a beginer. These pads are reasonably priced and the dust cleans easily (carried by forum vendor pfyc.com)

Other thoughts:
- Bring lots of fluids for you (I bring a small cooler)
- Bring a chair for between sessions
- Check your ego at the gate. First time on the track can be humbling. So can the 2nd and the 3rd...
- Listen to your instructors. Most of them are guys like me with lots of seat time.

HAVE FUN!

[janoz06]

Have fun You gonna love it...

[IndyDave]

Ditto what Subdriver said!

If the prep work he describes for going to the track sounds like too much work for you, or too much money to have it done - don't go! This is serious stuff, and you have a very nice car.

I'm sure that many people on this site enjoy prep work before a track event, as I do. I find that it makes me more excited for the event, and then, more confident that I have my car in good shape when I get there. I view the learning process associated with my car as involving maintenance, track prep work, and road course instruction/practice. From what you write, I'm guessing you understand this, and that's great.

One thing I have found to be very helpful as I go to more and more track events is to look for guys who "just get it". You watch these guys and you can see that they lap people who have a lot more car, they tend to be the most friendly people out there, and they love to share what they know. You will quickly see who is all about their car and who is all about learning.

Lastly, I don't know what track you are going to, but get videos if you can. I have become a complete junkie for in-car videos. I can't tell you how many times I have watched Subdriver real in that GT3 at Mid-Ohio!!! I hope to go to a DE event at Mid-O this summer, and watching David Pintaric and Subdriver's videos have shown me a lot. Even still pictures of the track have helped. I am trying to absorb everything I can about that track before I even show up there.

You may also want to print a copy of the track map, memorize it, and ask other folks their advice for various corners, lines they take, things to watch out for etc.

OK, I'll shut up for now. This topic really gets me pumped for track time! I'm sure you will do great - you have a good attitude starting out.

Keep us posted on how it goes!

Dave

[Electron Blue]

Thanks! Hey Sub, what do you recommend as a preventive maintenance for my clutch? Should I change the fluid, bleed it, what? I would like to minimize the chances of the pedal sticking on me. Also, where can I get the brake fluid at (Wilwood)? I do have slotted rotors and Hawk pads. Should I bleed the tires before I leave the house? Only time they will be cold. Last, I am not worried about the warranty because it expired in Dec. Here's a link to the track. The layout is under track specs. http://www.pacificraceways.com/

[JOEZ06]

Do as much as you can with your car, but don't over sweat the car the first time out. At a minimum, consider the tips in your Z06 video wrt to oil and follow the tech checklist. The above car tips posted are must once you get bit by the bug.

If you value your paint, consider a bra, carbon fiber side mirror covers and/or some racers tape in the right places (behind the tires). There are posts on this.

Depending on your learning style, you might find the book "Going Faster" by Skip Barber worth while. I regard it as the road course track bible. I read it cover to the cover before every track weekend. It's a ritual, and I learn something new every time I read it. A book like this will teach you your instructors track vocabulary in advance, and allow you get more out of your sessions sooner. PCA and other orgs put out glossary of terms for novices, those work too.

Track videos! If you look hard enough on the web, you will find no cost videos of every road course. I take my laptop and run the videos in a loop, great refresher between track weekends.

Instructors will stress the fundamentals: 1) Safety/Courtesy-not a race. 2) The line the line the line. 3) Smooth inputs and gradual adjustments.

HAVE FUN. And get a good night sleep the night before!

Write up a nice post after your day. No matter what anyone tells you, there is no prepping you for the experience. It's the most fun you will ever have with your clothes on--better than any mod.

[Electron Blue]

Can you tell me what the tech checklist consist of?? Do you know of a good learners video to watch a couple of times before I go? My two biggest concerns are: 1. Not taking the car off track 2. Learning to relax and enjoy the experience knowing full well that #1 could happen. How do you guys deal with that possibility other than saying WTF?

[David Pintaric]

And get a good night sleep the night before!

Impossible to sleep the night before, and several afterwards!

[Subdriver]

Originally Posted by Electron Blue

Thanks! Hey Sub, what do you recommend as a preventive maintenance for my clutch? Should I change the fluid, bleed it, what? I would like to minimize the chances of the pedal sticking on me. Also, where can I get the brake fluid at (Wilwood)? I do have slotted rotors and Hawk pads. Should I bleed the tires before I leave the house? Only time they will be cold. Last, I am not worried about the warranty because it expired in Dec. Here's a link to the track. The layout is under track specs. http://www.pacificraceways.com/

I PM'd you info on where to buy Wilwood. I'm not aware of any forum vendors that have it yet.

I wouldn't sweat the clutch too much at this point. Bleeding the clutch is a major PITA. About a 3 hour job for me without an LAPD extension line. If you do get someone to bleed it, I would suggest you have them put in an LAPD clutch extension line which brings the bleed point up to by the reservoir and makes bleeding a 2 minute job.
It is easy to use the turkey baster method to suck the old dirty clutch fluid out of the reservoir and put in new fresh fluid. I use my brake fluid although this doesn't technically meet GM specs. It will take about a half dozen suck out and replaces before the fluid starts to stay clean. Don't be worried when you take the cap off and look at the fluid and it is black. That is normal. It will be black a few days after you fill the reservoir with new fluid. Just keep repeating. Note, this will help keep the fluid clean, but won't bleed the system.

I don't set my tire pressure until about 15 minutes before the first session. They won't get that hot on the drive to the track and they will cool if the car sets for about an hour before the first session which it probably will.