Can anyone give me a recommendation on a good trailer to use. I've seen tilt and drive on and 18 ft vs 16 ft. How much does the car weigh? My SUV only has a 5000lb towing capacity.
Dave
Most open aluminum trailers weight between 900-1300 lbs. so on top of the 3100 lbs for the car, you're getting close to the maximum. A steel trailer will probably weigh in 500-750 lbs more.
I tow with a Dodge Durango with the 5.9L engine rated at 7250 lb towing capacity. Although the Durango as done fine, I can feel the trailer back there, especially in the wind and on rolling hills.
I personally want a bigger truck and am looking at a 2500 series Suburban.
With an SUV with only a 5000# towing capacity, aluminum open air is about your only option and that is pushing it if you load your suv and add a tire rack.
You either need more towing capacity or an extremely expensive and light aluminum trailer. But an aluminum trailer is less money than a new tow vehicle.
I would be concerned though. I use a new Denali that can tow 8,000 lbs, and have no problems with an steel trailer.
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Trailered my Z to the fest last year. I have a 02 Trailblazer and a tandem axle 18' utility trailer. I was 500lbs. under my max. towing capacity and had no problems! I had an incident on the way back home to Michigan and I thank GOD for having the setup that I had!!!! I had to slam on brakes to avoid a deer. I have pulled all sorts of trailers in my day and let me tell you, you would rather a steel trailer with a good axle setup rather than a light aluminum 4000.00 setup.I bet my life and Z on that it would not have held up in that situation!!! This trailer I have doubles as the utility trailer for my business where I frequently tow my 6600lb mini-excavator. Steel trailers are the way to go!! If you can afford an aluminum trailer, then chances are you can afford a higher powered tow vehicle!! One more point if I may, do you have a TIG welding setup? If you have an aluminum trailer and want to custom mount some D-rings or something, then you have to find someone with a TIG setup. Steel trailers can be modded with a MIG or a small buzzbox!!! I think it's mostly about SAFETY!!!
Granted, aluminum trailers are light and fancy lookin', But if your in a situation, then steel is where you want to be!! Oh yeah,the trailer weighs 1180lbs and cost 1700.00.Hope this all helps!
I have a 18' Texas Rollback trailer and am very happy. The rollback design makes loading a breeze. I considered an enclosed trailer, but I happy with the open trailer when it came time to load up.
Subdriver, for the last two years I towed a 24 enclosed with a 8.1 2500, and you know its back there. Better then any other rig. Two trips to Topeka or 75k in a year and half. But be warned that with power you'll burn fuel. 7 to 9 mpg @ 70/75mph best was 11 at 60mph. Still better then the 5.4 in the 1500 pick up that only did 6mpg. (both were 01s) Use open trailer and almost didnt know it was there. and have use the open trailer behind the Allroads Audi. Its right at the max. But better then my Range Rover. Go figure!
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Last edited by Mark Olson : 04-08-2003 at 11:19 PM.
Originally posted by David Pintaric You either need more towing capacity or an extremely expensive and light aluminum trailer. But an aluminum trailer is less money than a new tow vehicle.
I would be concerned though. I use a new Denali that can tow 8,000 lbs, and have no problems with an steel trailer.
I tow my Firebird (~3400lbs) on a 18' L / 103" W Brimar solid deck steel trailer. I used to tow with my '96 K1500 Suburban (5.7L/255hp/3.73s). It towed well with my WDH setup. I now use (like David) a '03 K1500 Yukon Denali XL (6.0L/320hp/3.73s). The newer truck is a HUGE difference, not just in power, but also the brakes/chassis. They're both rated around 7600lbs-8000lbs towing capacity.
I have a friend that used to tow his Z06 with a Lightning pickup (5k towing capacity?). He was very comfortable at highway speeds, so YMMV
In general, a longer wheelbase truck will tow much better than a stubby one.
Texas rollback trailer here, easy, easy loading, but they are pricey, and a little heavy (1800lbs I think). Very well built though - I was impressed, this after having built 3 trailers myself.
Whatever you choose, if you are close to the capacity of the tow vehicle, be sure to get brakes on both trailer axelses, and a good brake controller (tekonsha prodigy is the sweet one right now) That takes a lot of the pucker factor out of any setup.
I used to tow with a 5.9 durango, but you could feel the weight once the load wento over 4000 lbs. For short hauls you'll be fine. If you go more than a couple of thousand miles a year, the bigger the truck, the better (hassis, brakes, suspension etc).
You think you feel the wind. I'm pulling a 24' enclosed with our Durango. I really need another tow vehicle.
I really wanted one of those, but decided to wait for a bigger tow vehicle. Your trailer must dwarf the Durango.
Quote:
Subdriver, for the last two years I towed a 24 enclosed with a 8.1 2500, and you know its back there. Better then any other rig. Two trips to Topeka or 75k in a year and half. But be warned that with power you'll burn fuel.
I did note that fuel mileage figure. However, I'm only getting about 9 mpg in the Durago if towing into a head wind or up and down rolling hills. So, I'm not giving up too much. Wish I had the money to get my wife a mid-sized SUV like the Trailblazer and get me a long bed F350 or GMC 2500HD. I'd have to sell the Vette to do that though. Kind of self defeating, eh?
When I bought the 8.1 Sub. The dealer let me toe a 20 mile loop with just about everything. There was a grade (two miles long) and the 8.1 2500 Sub. had the best round trip milage. (4.10 gearing) On long climbs from Sac to Tahoe I did see 3 to 4 mpg but at 65mph. Like I finished, I now drive the Vet to and from events, but have used my Audi allroads with a very light open trailer with good results. But to do all over? Maybe a Alfa 40ft motorhome with a Cat 350.
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