Frequency of trans/diff fluid changes for tracked cars?

[longdaddy]

well?
what about power steering fluid? any point in flushing that?

[seamus2154]

The norm for some of us is to use a turkey baster suck it out put in new fluid and repeat after a little use. Then your set. I do it when the clutch and trans fluid are done. I don't flush it is pretty much dilute.

[XFordGuy]

The procedure in the manual is a pain in the butt. Basically remove a hose and gravity bleed, repeat forever. I see why folks opt for dilution.

I'm about to do it anyway since I had some issues with the PS pump making noise at the end of my track sessions. It was the usual Alabama 90+ degree day with 90% humidity.

[DennyM]

Humnnn ... post # 2 above on "turkey baster" actually applies to clutch master reservoir and PS reservoir.
I think post # 3 refers to clutch or PS ...
Clutch: The clutch slave bleed valve is practically inaccessible ... and to get to it one has to drop the exhaust and tunnel plate ... that's why folks suck out the clutch master and replace, iteratively after 20 or so clutch cycles, until clear. In practice, I check mine each time I bleed the brakes (about 10 track days a year) and refresh A/R. (I use DOT 4 brake fluid for brakes and in clutch reservoir)
PS: I use Redline Synthetic PS fluid - sucked and refilled last fall, had about 5 track days since then, just did it before going to VIR last weekend --- fluid was UGLY! ... so, yes! ... suck and replace at least twice a year for a tracked car.
Diff and Xmsn ... Some replace after as few as four track days; some around 10 track days, some annually for a tracked car. I would say, for HPDE use, every 20 track days or two years at a minimum; preferably annually. I did mine in mid-2006 (three years on stock fluid); again last November (end of season) - 18 months and about 12 track days, lotsa autox, 4 days time trials .. and it looked pretty good. (I use Amsoil in Diff and Trans, BTW ...)
FWIW

[seamus2154]

DennyM is right I forgot this is the same method I use on the clutch fluid. It is commonly called the Ranger method. The clutch fluid gets nasty fast and I do that after any abuse or track day to prevent problems and I have had none. I also use Amsoil for the rear and trans which holds up well.

[longdaddy]

ok thanks for comments. I have about a year on trans fluid and 1/2 a year on the diff. so i guess I will change those out this fall

I have been doing the baster thing with the clutch for a bit, that should be fine. too bad it's hard to do a proper bleed.

we did the PS 2 days ago, it was actually not too bad, unhooking the line in front and moving the wheel - got about a quart out this way. I put redline fluid in. The fluid that came out was dark brown, sort of like used oil. not sure if that is normal or not.

The pump is starting to get noisy for a day after the track trip, then goes back to normal. hmmm I am thinking not good

[seamus2154]

If you look up the Ranger method(turkey baster) you should pump the pedal 10-30 times each time until it stays clear that way your all flushed out w/o the need for a bleed. Just making sure your not just swapping out the resevoir fluid only.

[WB6HRO]

I change the trans and rear end once a year with about 6-10 track days a year. Refill with Redline synthetic.

Bleed brakes before each event. Using ATL high temp fluid.

Install new brake piston seal kits with each pad replacement (running Porterfiled R4 pads)

Replace clutch fluid with ATL brake fluid before each event.

Replace power steering fluid once a year with Redline high temp fluid.

[DennyM]

Originally Posted by WB6HRO

...
Install new brake piston seal kits with each pad replacement (running Porterfiled R4 pads) ...

Don't want to get too far OT, but how often do you change pads? rotors? Do you burn up the piston seals? (I've not replaced mine - I run Carbotech XP10 pads, titanium backing plates, and DRM ducts with hoses and spindle mounts; if I stay with stock calipers, I plan on getting new ones with SS pistons from DRM this winter.

[WB6HRO]

Denny,

I am running the same DRM ducts and Phoenix spindle mounts. I also have the DRM SS pistons. The R4 pads wear very well and do not wear the rotors. I can do 25-30 events before I change rotors (Napa's), the pads usually last about 10-15 events.

I like changing the piston seals when I change pads they do get hot and since I do a lot of late braking to pass C-6 Z06's, it's cheap insurance. The seal kits are about $12 each.

I melt the dust boots and asked DRM about it. They said that it was normal, they don't even put the dust boots on with the SS pistons.

[kmagvette]

Originally Posted by WB6HRO

Denny,

I am running the same DRM ducts and Phoenix spindle mounts. I also have the DRM SS pistons. The R4 pads wear very well and do not wear the rotors. I can do 25-30 events before I change rotors (Napa's), the pads usually last about 10-15 events....

OK, I'll bite. 10 events on pads? I am lucky to get 2 events on fronts. Front rotors are good for 2 days (NAPA, A/C Delco, etc.). Rears last about twice as long.

I am running the same cooling and pistons. Who makes the R4 pads and where are you running? If these are road course events (10 events = 20 days * 3 track hours/day = 60 track hours), WOW. 25 events on rotors - your brake solution will make my pile of rotors in the garage last about 9 years.

[WB6HRO]

Well I'll have to say I'm estimating track time since I drive the car and wife runs it in another run group. But I have been running the same rotors for about 1 1/2 years and have run about 11 days on the track with two of us driving the car. That's 4 20 minute sessions each day for each driver.

The Porterfield R4 pads are really rotor friendly. It is a track pad and does squeak on the street every so often. I've heard that the Hawks really eat up rotors.

I don't think that I am really that slow running a stock C-5 Z06 with only the brake modifications, but I am running a few seconds behind the T-1 cars.

[mikahb]

I do engine oil every 3rd event (normal event = 1 practice, 2 qualifying sessions, 2 races). Brakes get done every single event and bled well. All other fluids (coolant, PS fluid, clutch, tranny, diff) as part of winter maintenance.

[Last C5]

[quote=WB6HRO;1236896]Denny,

I am running the same DRM ducts and Phoenix spindle mounts. I also have the DRM SS pistons. The R4 pads wear very well and do not wear the rotors. I can do 25-30 events before I change rotors (Napa's), the pads usually last about 10-15 events.
Wow, I run a similar set up with SSBC Tri Force calipers and I'm happy to get 3 or 4 days out of rotors.

[DennyM]

Well, I'm probably for getting this thread into pad and rotor life issues ...
Best continue that discussion on a thread like: (search on "rotor life" and you'll get LOTS of anecdotal/experience comments) ...
Breaking rotors