How reliable are these cars as track cars?

[Velocity]

This is a copy of a post I made regarding a brake thread. I think it also fits here as a testiment to the c6Z.

"I have tracked my car very seriously since I aquired it last Sept. Last weekend my Z06 went over 4000 track miles. I switched over to StopTech's very early on, after experiencing the same type of problems. I have done a complete make over of the stock setup. Stop Tech Brakes, Performance Friction 03 pads, SS lines, cooling ducts, coilovers, alignment, wheels, Hoosier Vrl slicks, and a few under hood mods, to get the car to be the track monster that it was always ment to be. Today it is as good on the track as a "street car" can be.
However I rarely street the car, 5700 miles on the car overall. The engine has prob seen as many near redline shifts as any C6 Z out there, and has had zero problems. On the track it out runs the best "streetable cars". (F430, GT3, SRT,FGT etc.). So with a few expensive and a few not so expensive mods the C6 Z can be almost, as good on the track on as a TRUE factory race car like the comp coup Snake."

[sab0276]

Thanks for all of the input guys, I appreciate it. I think I am going to get the 911 though (too good of a deal).
I hope to get a Z06 when I get bored with it and want something with more power.

Any of you guys run with Chin Motorsports/TracQuest? I usually go to the WGI and VIR events with them. Maybe I'll see some of you guys there.

-Scott

[Duke 1]

If you go with the 911 as your track car, I would strongly suggest you get some instruction from someone who has experience with rear engine cars. The driving technique between front and rear engine cars is very different.

[sab0276]

Absolutely. In fact the person I am buying it from is a PCA instructor and plans on doing some DE's together.

I've been tracking a mid-engine car for 2 years, so hopefully that will help.

-Scott

[quickZ]

Scott, just send you an email about your MR2. Thanks.

[touring2]

This is resurrecting an old thread. Just bought the ron davis rad w/ int oil cooler, cuz I got a jones to keep up with the big boys again, and 300 plus deg eng oil temp distracts me from the job at hand. Also been looking at big brakes(speed costs money...) then I remembered that Scotty B and CindyLux just burn their red calipers brown, and change them out, while being only 3 secs off the GT-1 class times at Seattle. Comparo: me-1.38, T-1 racers-1.32.5s, Scotty and Cindy in showroom stock z06's-1.30.xx, GT-1- 1.27's all at Seattle
How's everybody doing?

[XFordGuy]

Here's what I did to prep for tracking my car. Keep in mind I'm the original owner and the poor car only has 14K miles on it

Replace rotors and bed in set of Carbotech XP8 pads all around.
Install Speedbleeders
Install stainless brake lines
Purge brake fluid and replace with DOT 5.1
Install Doug Rippie Brake cooling ducts with Phoenix spindle mounts on the front.

I drove the car HARD for 2 track days and found out that street tires are the limiting factor. No brake fade, no overheating, no worries. It was over 90 degrees outside with absurd Alabama humidity in the 80-90% range and the car was flawless. I drove there. I drove home. I'm going again in September

Chin Motorsports has more openings for Barber on 15/16 Sep. It is a gorgeous facility.

[DennyM]

In line with XFordGuy ...
I'm the original owner and the poor car only has 20K miles on it

Install Speedbleeders
Install stainless brake lines
Purge brake fluid and replace with DOT4
Install Doug Rippie Brake cooling ducts with Phoenix spindle mounts on the front.
Hawk HP + pads
Titanium backing plates on pads (mitigates heat transfer)
Lowered on stock bolts
Synthetic trans and diff fluid
DOT4 iteratively cycled thru the clutch MC reservoir
Regular bleeds around events.
Drove three years on stock tires ... I drove the car moderately hard over about 12 track days (saw oil temps approaching 290 most times and then backed it off.
No brake fade, no overheating, no worries.
Then ... put on a set of Nitto 555RII's
Replaced rotors and installed Carbotech XP10/8 pads.
Installed '04 C5Z shocks

Oh ... I put in a custom welded 4-pt roll bar ... but on to cooling ...
I'm also putting in a DRM RD Rad with integrated (right side) EOC after an autox this weekend.
Biggest PITA I see is pulling the wire harness for fans off the shroud.
NOTE: Randy says the pressure hose connects to the FRONToutlet of the adapter and runs to the bottom inlet.

Running 1.2 front, 0.9 rear camber ... not enough for the Nittos ... I was rolling the outside edges big time at VIR ... going to 1.5 front and rear ... 0 toe front (I have to drive to track) and 1/16 to 1/8 toe in on rear.)
Near future ... PolyGraphite bushings ... and watch the hubs ...

[Subdriver]

Originally Posted by DennyM

... going to 1.5 front and rear ... 0 toe front (I have to drive to track) and 1/16 to 1/8 toe in on rear.)

Denny,
Not that you'll be able to get that much in the rear, but I think you'll want nearer -1.0 in the rear for two reasons. I think that with more, the car will tend strongly towards understeer (too much grip in the rear) - however note that this is safe, just not fast. And, I think that too much negative camber in the rear makes it hard to put down the power coming out of slow speed corners. On my stock suspension, I used -1.7 in the front, -1.0 in the rear and was pretty happy with it... other than the rapid front tire inner edge wear experienced on the street portion of my driving.

[DennyM]

Originally Posted by Subdriver

Denny,
Not that you'll be able to get that much in the rear, but I think you'll want nearer -1.0 in the rear for two reasons. I think that with more, the car will tend strongly towards understeer (too much grip in the rear) - however note that this is safe, just not fast. And, I think that too much negative camber in the rear makes it hard to put down the power coming out of slow speed corners. On my stock suspension, I used -1.7 in the front, -1.0 in the rear and was pretty happy with it... other than the rapid front tire inner edge wear experienced on the street portion of my driving.

Thanks Brad ... and I've backed off that number as well ... any setting for a dual use car is a compromise ... understand that ... there's a unique number that, for some ratio of street and track use, with a given tire (tires?) , yields "even wear" ... insides on street; outsides on track ... and we're all paying the alchemist ...

[Cobra4B]

I'm running DRM front brake coolers, Goodrige SS lines w/ AN fittings, and Wilwood H pads (or Carbotech XP12/XP10s).

I have a dewitts racing radiator w/ left side EOC (enclosed oil cooler) and my max oil temp after 25 min in 95+ degrees at VIR was 276. The left side is the hot side of the radiator, but it allows for easier line routing and the oil gets to temp nicely in the winter which is good as I still drive on the street often.

I've never had a trans temp warning, but I do run full synthetics. I also have my exhaust ceramic coated w/ black turbo coating, but even before that I had no issues w/ trans heat.

My father's stock '04 got the warning our first time out last summer so we pulled down the stock mid-pipe and wrapped it with header wrap where it passes under the trans, we also upgraded to syn fluids... no more issues at all!

Stock


Wrapped


In

[HarrisRacing]

Old thread, but thank you to these guys! Just got my 02 Z just for track days.

Out of the EVO into the Z06, let's see the difference

Patrick