I have a C5 Z06 with 18" CCW front wheels that are 11" wide. My understanding is that the DRM brake ducts and spindle ducts are not supposed to work with any front wheels over 10". I'd like to get some sort of brake ducting. Is there anyway the DRM kit can work or be modified to work? Could I fabricate my own or is there any other kits out there?
Also, I drive my car primarily on the track. What are some advisable track alignment setting that can be achieved with the stock suspension at a local alignment shop? I was thinking around -1.5 to 2.0 front camber. -.75 to 1.0 rear camber. front toe out 0 to 1/8". rear toe at 0 or maybe a little toe in.
On the first question ... Brake cooling ducts and C5 Z06?
And the way you fit the duct is important ... Z06Vette.com - Corvette Z06 Forum - Search Results
On the second question ...
Tough to get more than 1.8 degrees camber on stock ... mebbe easier if it's lowered a tad on the bolts.
Rear is doable up to ~ 1.2 with above caveat.
Generally, front toe should be zero to a tad (1/16 total) Out
Rear toe should be 1/16 to 1/8" toe In.
Front caster should be equal ... most say "max caster that camber setting will allow" ... however, those experiencing Power Steering pump failures say to dial back the caster toward 6.0 to ease the workload on the PS pump.
Cliffs notes:
Your actual settings should be matched to your tires ... and consider your suspension. Stock suspension bushings are more compliant, causing a loss of camber on side loading compression; poly or better are less compliant; less camber change.
aftermarket sway bar will affect camber changes ..
Track tires will load the suspension more, requiring more camber.
Camber does not wear tires as much as toe.
The novel: Sway Bars, Castor, Braking, and how they impact Dynamic Camber
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^VIR Turn 3 '08^-MungoZ06-'03 QS/ModRed - NCCC, NASA NCM Member - Z06 Fest IV,V,VI,VII
I am having the DRM ducts installed on my 01 Zo6 right now at a local shop. I also have 11" CCW Wheels.
I last time I talked to the owner of the shop they were having some issues with the possibility of rubbing when turning the wheels all the way to lock. Knowing the owner of the shop, Dennis, for over 29 years if there is a way to make them work with out rubbing he'll find a way. But from what I have read and even talking to Randy at DRM the tires will almost always make contact with the ducts when turning the wheel to lock to lock.
My CCW wheels are going to be used mostly for the track, I have a stock set for daily driving.
I have been running CCW's for 4 yrs, 18's all around and I also have the DRM ducts, but I don't have the spindles on. I still have a stock alignment, so I havn't had any rubbing issues yet. I THINK my front wheels are 10.5, I will check
When I found my CCW wheels used and asked you about them, you said they were the same size as yours, 11" front 12" rear.
Just out of curiosity you're not running the spindle ducts, why? I didn't buy any because I've read that you don't have to. I'll save ($$$)that for my next upgrade.
BTW Are you going to NCM event at Putnam Park in October?
I run the T1 wheels on my Z06 and they, as well as the stock wheels, will rub the ducts. I simply limit myself to one round of lock and never have a problem. I can go a bit beyond one round, but 1 is easy for me to count to
Camber settings will no measurable impact on duct rub. Installed correctly they are almost in-line with the center of the wheel. As a rule of thumb, you want to install the ducts as low as possible without going below a line that goes across the top center portion of the front sway bar - you will be happy you thought of that when you upgrade your sway bars.
The T1 wheels (17") measured across the entire wheel are 11" Front and 12" Rear. I thought that made them 11" and 12" wheels respectively. Apparently that is not the case. A wheel manufacturer I spoke to recently says you measure the bead seat - so that would make my wheels narrower, probably 10.5" and 11.5".
On the spindle ends, go with the LG's. Toss the ducting that comes with the DRM's and replace it with 3" Scat tubing. Use Race Tape to build up the end that goes into the DRM ducts so it is snug, then a bit more tape to secure it. The tape will last a very long time - got three years on mine.
As DennyM suggests, the stock bushings are marshmellows, especially for a tracked car. You will get loads of camber gain (meaning it goes positive - bad) as the lower control arm bushings distort under load. Going to Poly-Graphite bushings will practically eliminate the camber gain from distorted bushings. The end result is that a 1.5 deg camber setting will yield much more effective camber than you currently have with stock bushings.
To lock the camber settings in, I went to Camber Plates. Usually this results in a loss of caster, which i really like. To get my caster back I shimmed my upper control arms with washers, decreasing in number, front to back. Something like 5, 4, 3, and 2 washers behind the control arms. To accommodate the washers you will need either longer bolts or go to a stud kit for the uppers - it makes adjustment easier. The first alignment with camber plates will be a PITA.
Thanks for the info. I did read on one of DennyM's links that DJ said that some clearance can be made with a heat gun....??? It's too bad that there isn't a way that these can be installed without any rubbing.
The bushings and spindle ends will be my next upgrade.
When I found my CCW wheels used and asked you about them, you said they were the same size as yours, 11" front 12" rear.
Just out of curiosity you're not running the spindle ducts, why? I didn't buy any because I've read that you don't have to. I'll save ($$$)that for my next upgrade.
BTW Are you going to NCM event at Putnam Park in October?
Later,
I am not sure about my wheel sizes, not at home but I will check when I am. I had been told the same thing about the spindle ducts so I didn't put them on.
Yeh I am thinking about the Oct event, are you running?
I'm about 90% sure I'll do Putnam in October with the NCM event. I'm about 50% for the ZFEST in Sept. (If I go it will be a last minute trip, just happen to be in town) The price of Diesel has really killed us in the trucking industry.
It has always been very difficult for us to plan on being home home at a certain date.
I got my Z in the shop right now having the ducts installed, SS lines, Line Lock, Rev light and trailer hitch. I bought 'digger's' wheels and slicks that I used at last years Fest.
The T1 wheels (17") measured across the entire wheel are 11" Front and 12" Rear. I thought that made them 11" and 12" wheels respectively. Apparently that is not the case. A wheel manufacturer I spoke to recently says you measure the bead seat - so that would make my wheels narrower, probably 10.5" and 11.5".
I spoke to the folks at CCW today, apparently my wheels, measuring the bead seat, are 10" front and 11" rear. So wheels are roughly 1" narrower than their widest measurement <- read that a few times
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