DIY: Silence that Hurst Shifter! (pics) - Z06Vette.com - Corvette Z06 Forum
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post #1 of 69 (permalink) Old 08-23-2003, 10:49 AM Thread Starter
jub jub
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DIY: Silence that Hurst Shifter! (pics)

The Hurst shifter was much too noisy for my taste. Part of the problem was increased noise coming from the torque tube because of the big gaping hole left by the inverted rubber boot and a increase in rattling noise from shifter vibration.

The first thing you want to do is to remove the two shift stop screws. They aren't necessary unless you are going to be power shifting all the time. By removing them the shift shaft won't make contact with the stop bolts so you won't have to worry about that particular noise.

Next, go to your local hardware store and purchase a 1-1/2 " PVC rubber plug.

Take an Exacto knife and cut a hole in the center just slightly smaller than the shaft, apprx 5/8". Do a better job than I did though.

Place upside down over shaft and down into the stock shifter boot that has been turned inside out per Hurst instructions. Note: One 2003 and later models there is a hard plastic ring inside the boot that will have to be removed. You can cut it out with diaganol wire cutters.

I didn't do this but thought about it afterward. You could take some high density foam and stuff inside the opening for more sound deadening. It is very quiet without it though.

The finished product. No bulging and looks very stock.

This mod eliminates the transmission noise that travels up through the tunnel and eliminates most of the rattling expereinced by engine vibration. All in all, a very worth while mod and it's cheap!
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Last edited by jub jub; 12-16-2008 at 06:58 PM.
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post #2 of 69 (permalink) Old 08-23-2003, 12:07 PM
03torchred
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excellent idea....my hurst has been very noisy and is almost unbearable with the momo knob. I've tried wheel weights, dynamat, foam, cv boot and a few other things that I'm too embarrased to actually share

My MGW pistol grip ( plus ebrake handle and ac knobs) should be arriving soon so I will give this fix a try.

thanks again for the great idea...I'll let ya know if it works for me.




Harry

Blackwing, Hurst shifter, MGW pistol grip, Ceramic Brake Pads, Supermaxx long tube Headers, cats and X-Pipe, 160deg stat. Dyno(SAE): 387 rwhp, 376 ft lbs tq
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post #3 of 69 (permalink) Old 08-23-2003, 12:22 PM
Birddog-Singer
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I was thinking of changing my shifter next. I didn't know that the after markets make more noise. Is it engine noise or rattling from the shifter itself or what?? Now you have me wondering if it is just Hurst or are the others the same?? Anyone....??

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post #4 of 69 (permalink) Old 08-23-2003, 12:34 PM
03torchred
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Bird-dog

From what I've read, the noise varies pretty widely from car to car and shifter to shifter. Knob makes a difference as well. Some people have done the Hurst install and have no noise whatsoever.

Do a search on shifter noise or shifter rattle and crack a beer cause you'll have a few hours worth of reading.

Just for the record....even with the rattle I have, I would not go back to the stock shifter. The feel of the Hurst is that much better.



Harry

Blackwing, Hurst shifter, MGW pistol grip, Ceramic Brake Pads, Supermaxx long tube Headers, cats and X-Pipe, 160deg stat. Dyno(SAE): 387 rwhp, 376 ft lbs tq
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post #5 of 69 (permalink) Old 08-23-2003, 12:41 PM
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Thanks Harry. Some people on the forum have a B&M ripper and say they have no problems. I'm sure the shifter I pick is going to be a matter of more than just performance. I drove an F body with a Hurst and loved the way it felt. I know I want to change mine... just don't know which one yet. I will take your advice and start reading around.

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post #6 of 69 (permalink) Old 08-23-2003, 01:12 PM Thread Starter
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Now that I think about it, I think most of my noise came from the shifter "stop bolts". They might not have been adjusted properly. I decided to do away with them all together because they are not really needed. The stock shifter doesn't use them because the shift rods are travel limited.

There was a small amount of noise coming through the shift boot that is transmitted by the engine/transmission via the torque tube. By placing the rubber PVC plug in the hole with a tight fit around the shift shaft, allot of that noise was reduced. Now the prominent noise are the Borlas. That is a noise I can live with. :D

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post #7 of 69 (permalink) Old 08-23-2003, 04:07 PM
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My Hurst makes no noise at all with the MGW knob. All I can hear is road noise and you can hardly hear it over the Stingers anyway.
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post #8 of 69 (permalink) Old 08-24-2003, 07:33 AM
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Thanks for posting the pictures jub jub. I've had my hurst for 2 weeks now and it doesn't seem to rattle, but maybe I'm not paying attention :P

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post #9 of 69 (permalink) Old 08-24-2003, 08:02 AM Thread Starter
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Another thing I done while I had the console of was to remove the larger of the two centering springs. When I put the allen screws back I barely tightened them so there was little tension on them. Now it is much easier to get into fifth and reverse.

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post #10 of 69 (permalink) Old 08-24-2003, 08:32 AM
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jub jub be careful with the allen screws....You should put loc-tite on them or they will probably back out with the vibration.....It happened to me and the allen screw got jammed in the shifter hole and would not let me shift at all.
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post #11 of 69 (permalink) Old 08-24-2003, 08:39 AM Thread Starter
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I was wondering about that. I might just take the allen screws and springs out all together. I didn't notce much difference between the light springs and no springs at all. Shifter seems to still have that solid, precise feel to it.

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post #12 of 69 (permalink) Old 09-24-2003, 09:20 AM
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So let me get this straight.....I can use either a 1 1/2 or a 2 inch PVC rubber plug.....which is better? Thanks

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post #13 of 69 (permalink) Old 09-24-2003, 10:34 AM
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In the pictures the 1.5" is installed in the opposite position as the 2". The 2" goes down and "caps" over the existing inverted rubber boot and fits very snug. With The 1.5", it goes down the shifter shaft upside down and fits inside the inverted rubber boot. I can feel around my leather boot and feel the 2" cap under there. The 1.5" should be harder to detect or feel and I think everyone would agree is the optimal choice. Both will provide the same result....

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post #14 of 69 (permalink) Old 09-24-2003, 10:42 AM
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Great post.

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post #15 of 69 (permalink) Old 09-24-2003, 10:43 AM
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Thanks Paul

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