Corvette Z06 Forum banner

1 - 20 of 36 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I ordered a cam on a 114 LSA but I'm thinking about going to a 112. Want a mean mean mean sounding car. Do you think I would be able to tell a big difference with a 112 instead of the 114? How does everyone like theirs and what are they? I can sacrifice some driveability for sounding good. I know the difference in horspower is small so I'm just going for sound at idle on this difference.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
895 Posts
It will depend on the cam, but in general the 112 should have more of a lope to it that the 114. I think you will definitely be able to tell the difference at an idle. After that I am not sure.

Steve
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,817 Posts
DON'T install the 114 lsa, it sounds too much like stock. I have the 112 lsa and it is very driveable.....it depends on the tune. The car shakes a little, but sounds like a pro-stocker which is the sound you want! :yeadog: PLUS, with the 112, you get more torque and power under the curve at lower "normal driving" rpms where you want it. :thumb:

Bob :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,852 Posts
smithsc said:
It will depend on the cam, but in general the 112 should have more of a lope to it that the 114. I think you will definitely be able to tell the difference at an idle. After that I am not sure.

Steve

what do yo' mean by loop? and how diffrent would it be? which one is more power full 112 or 114? so if the 112 has more of a loop, does this mean the 114 would be more towards stock then the 112? alot of questions :yeadog: thanx
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
624 Posts
It just stuffed a 114 G5X3 in my car. No cats, Ti's, long tubes and it sounds awsome. Check out my dyno #s in the tuning sect.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17,744 Posts
My vote goes for the 112 LSA :cheers:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
387 Posts
Richard Branca said:
It just stuffed a 114 G5X3 in my car. No cats, Ti's, long tubes and it sounds awsome. Granted a 112 will sound better, but you need to fly cut pistons for a 112 (at least as far as the G5X3 in concerned).
Thats a great point about the pistons. :yeadog: Actually, no one recommends fly cutting. Better of with forged pistons (means more $$), which may not be a bad thing if you want to run Nitrous in the future.

Anyways, I think you should get the biggest cam with the smallest lsa that you can stomach and deal with the added costs as they come.
Do it once, do it right. Its not a walk in the park if and when you decide later on that you want a beefier cam.

Pros - More BALLS, Deeper/Lopier Grunt.
Cons - Shorter valve spring life, more shaking of car, may need gas when starting.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,383 Posts
OhOneZOhSiXXX said:
Thats a great point about the pistons. :yeadog: Actually, no one recommends fly cutting. Better of with forged pistons (means more $$), which may not be a bad thing if you want to run Nitrous in the future.
Hmm, never heard anyone NOT recommend flycutting. Of course forged is far better, but why no flycutting? Weakens the pistons too much? I always thought the rod bolts were the weak link.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
387 Posts
dmtnt said:
Hmm, never heard anyone NOT recommend flycutting. Of course forged is far better, but why no flycutting? Weakens the pistons too much? I always thought the rod bolts were the weak link.
In short, it is to much of a chance to f up, and once you f up you cant hit undo. :NoNo:

The machine that does it, does one piston at a time (meaning eight chances to f up), and does not even have a mold for the pistons to go in. All the cutting is done with the piston(s) still in the block. Then afterwards you still have to smooth it out.

Even someone who is an "expert" at doing it, will NEVER cut & sand with the precision of an already forged piston. We are talking the precision of thousands of an inch here (sheet of paper). If you cut to little, then the valves touch and bye bye motor. If you cut to much, then you lose compression/power and offset the whole reason for doing it. It will not compromise the integrity of the piston, but if you call LGM or MTI and ask for their honest opinions, they will tell you not to do that.
Bottom line: Not worth the risk, especially if you, or a mechanic friend of yours, are doing it. And even if you did not f up, your engine would NEVER run as well as a perfectly cut(forged) piston.

Obviously, people can do whatever they wish, and take whatever short cuts they want, but frankly, flycutting is not a good one.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,817 Posts
Richard Branca said:
It just stuffed a 114 G5X3 in my car. No cats, Ti's, long tubes and it sounds awsome. Granted a 112 will sound better, but you need to fly cut pistons for a 112 (at least as far as the G5X3 in concerned).

Check out my dyno #s in the tuning sect.
I installed the G5X2 which has under .600 lift because I wanted the 112 lsa. Anything over .600 lift like the G5X3 will mean you have to flycut the pistons because the tolerance is too close. I lost about 10 rwhp with this cam, but will pick it up when adding the AFR 205 heads because I can have them ported to 59cc for another 10-12 rwhp vs. the stock 66cc. There are pros/cons on flycutting pistons. Basically, you are taking off about 1/3 of the piston and thereby weakening it. The racing guys do it all the time because they are into the engines...but for longterm reliability for a daily driver and occasional DE's, I wouldn't recommend flycutting. FYI. ;)

Bob
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
722 Posts
OhOneZOhSiXXX said:
Pros - More BALLS, Deeper/Lopier Grunt.
Cons - Shorter valve spring life, more shaking of car, may need gas when starting.
Why does Lobe Separation Angle influence valvespring life? I would think lift would be the only cam feature affecting spring life, aside from running a motor at higher revs.

Answer?? :-?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
387 Posts
ST1100 said:
Why does Lobe Separation Angle influence valvespring life? I would think lift would be the only cam feature affecting spring life, aside from running a motor at higher revs.

Answer?? :-?
Sorry for the confusion. I meant a more aggressive cam in general. Actually, what shortens the valve spring life is the lobe curve sharpness (hopefully that is what is called the lift ??). The sharper the curve, the quicker (less gradual) the valves are opened. It produces more power, but beats up the springs more. So yes, your right. Thanks for the clear up. :cheers:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,127 Posts
OhOneZOhSiXXX said:
In short, it is to much of a chance to f up, and once you f up you cant hit undo. :NoNo:



Even someone who is an "expert" at doing it, will NEVER cut & sand with the precision of an already forged piston. We are talking the precision of thousands of an inch here (sheet of paper). If you cut to little, then the valves touch and bye bye motor. If you cut to much, then you lose compression/power and offset the whole reason for doing it. It will not compromise the integrity of the piston, but if you call LGM or MTI and ask for their honest opinions, they will tell you not to do that.
Bottom line: Not worth the risk, especially if you, or a mechanic friend of yours, are doing it. And even if you did not f up, your engine would NEVER run as well as a perfectly cut(forged) piston.

Obviously, people can do whatever they wish, and take whatever short cuts they want, but frankly, flycutting is not a good one.
I cut mine within .001 of an inch of each other. I have the G5X3/112 with milled AFR heads that have larger valves. I didn't have any problems. I don't know where you got the idea that LG doesn't recommend it, he gave me the cutting specs and sold me the tool
The differance between men and boys is their toys and their tools. AND HOW THEY USE THEM!
http://www.z06vette.com/forums/showthread.php?t=73876
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
895 Posts
Just as another point of reference, I have the TRex cam, from Thunder Racing, (242/248,608/612,110lsa), stock heads and stock gasket, with no flycutting or replacement of the pistons. The valve to piston clearance is slightly below the recommended clearances, but acceptable (for me).

Steve
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
387 Posts
22655TD said:
I cut mine within .001 of an inch of each other. I have the G5X3/112 with milled AFR heads that have larger valves. I didn't have any problems. I don't know where you got the idea that LG doesn't recommend it, he gave me the cutting specs and sold me the tool
The differance between men and boys is their toys and their tools. AND HOW THEY USE THEM!
http://www.z06vette.com/forums/showthread.php?t=73876
Point being???
I dont build cars, I drive them.
People can do anything they want. You can run walmart supertech motor oil to save money if you want, but its not recommended.
Im glad for you that you are so mechanically inclined that you can cut your own pistons. We need more grease monkeys in the world. :cheers:
LG also tried to rent me the tool. Then when I kept asking about the way it was used, and all the potential screw ups, they admitted that IT IS NOT THE BEST OPTION and I bought forged pistons instead. Whether or not they tell customers different things, I dont care, thats on them.
First off, nothing you have stated negates what I have said. If you are put in a situation where you have to chose between modifying an existing, used piece with extreme precision (no matter what it is), or buying a new, pre-cut peice with EXACT precision, who in the world do you know would recommend modifying the used piece. Do you think any race teams flycut their pistons? Do you think Lou's pistons are flycut? NO!!!
Its simple, people flycut because they cant/dont want to buy forged ones.

Fact: Your flycut pistons do not compare to forged ones. (period)

Gotta run...dinner is waiting...cheers
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17,744 Posts
22655TD said:
I cut mine within .001 of an inch of each other. I have the G5X3/112 with milled AFR heads that have larger valves. I didn't have any problems. I don't know where you got the idea that LG doesn't recommend it, he gave me the cutting specs and sold me the tool
The differance between men and boys is their toys and their tools. AND HOW THEY USE THEM!
http://www.z06vette.com/forums/showthread.php?t=73876
I thought Lou has changed his mind on this subject and now says that "no fly cutting necessary with stock LS6 head" when using G5X3 on 112 LSA. :cheers:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,392 Posts
113 LSA. The whole car has a little shake at idle(not only feel it, but see it), and you know by the sound that it isn't "stock anymore". :yeadog:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
So, I'm not for sure who is actually making my cam for me at my local shop, but I guess if I go 112 I will just have to wait and see how tight the clearance is. Sounds like with the TRex cam, it's "acceptable" but with the G5X3 it isn't. I think I would be more happier with the 112 but I hate to get into more work than I want to. How much are forged pistons? If the clearance is too tight, than the only option to fix is either new pistons or flycutting????????
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
387 Posts
whyw802Z06 said:
So, I'm not for sure who is actually making my cam for me at my local shop, but I guess if I go 112 I will just have to wait and see how tight the clearance is. Sounds like with the TRex cam, it's "acceptable" but with the G5X3 it isn't. I think I would be more happier with the 112 but I hate to get into more work than I want to. How much are forged pistons? If the clearance is too tight, than the only option to fix is either new pistons or flycutting????????
Approx $800 w/rings. Dont flycut.
 
1 - 20 of 36 Posts
Top