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David Shepard of Shepard Performance just called to give me his performance numbers with the Halltech T-1 Intake only. This is unofficial until we recieve a timeslip. Our 11 Second Club and 12 Second Club members must post their time slips within 1 week to be official.

11.87 @ 118 mph! This with a 2.0 60 ft. time.

He will be back at the track today and tomorrow.

I'll keep you posted.

Jim
 

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WOW! :eek: That's sweet! :cheers: Let us know if he is consistent with those times. As soon as I order my 02', I'll be taking on a friend with a Saleen S351. He swears he'll blow by me in the 1/4 mile, but I've seen how he shifts!
 

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Fast Times

WOW those numbers are quick a 11 second pass with the same 60 foot time as mine and the same mile per hour., I would like to know how to do that. Jim by the way thanks for the new race filter I will put it on the dyno in the next few days.

Nice Job

Optic:cheers:
 
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All you guys are sooooooooo lucky! WOW!

You guys with ZO6's ..I am truly impressed..The performance you guys are throwing out is so awesome for such a lightly modded car..

The general really did the zo6 up right..

Fantastic driving skill as well..

Nice aftermarket parts..

Halltech T1 along with a great driver drops the basically stock zo6 into even a more impressive kingdom of superiority!!!!

I hope you guys know I'm biased..because its a Corvette!!!LOL

I may not own the ZO6..but I sure can revel in its accomplishments..

Way to go Sean! and Jim..for making a cool package.
 
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Discussion Starter #8
David Sheppard knows what he did

I'm not sure about his launching technique, but David has asked to distribute our products so he is receptive to phone calls at his business.

The 1/4 e.t. and speed were given to me as an "oh by the way".
He was not nearly as impressed as I was.

His friend with a Viper GTS ran 12.4s and was not very happy.

I am responding to this from home today; his phone is at the shop. I'll post details Monday.

What is strange is that he initially called to say he got a code when doing the idle learn (this happens occationally if the procedure is not done correctly). It's not hard. After installation:

Start the car and let it warm up to 176-degree water temp. Idle for 5 minutes and shut of the ignition for 30 seconds.

If you start driving the car before this is done, many of the fuel cells are going to "see" more new air than expected which may result in this code.

The code. When our system is first installed, during the intial startup, there is a new amount of air being seen by the PCM. If a specific threashold of new fuel to adapt to the new air, is surpassed for more than 6 seconds, in any adaptive cell, the code may pop. This is a one time event. Clearing the code takes 1 minute. We did not see this happen and only one other customer had this occur.

Bottom line. Its not a problem with the system. It's just the computer doing its job. I compare it to putting a smoke detector in the kitchen. When it goes off, your not surprised.

Jim Hall
 

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Idle relearn?

Jim, is this idle relearn neccessary? There was no info with the TRIC that I got from you to do this. I did get fuel trim system lean bank 1B and 2B with the TRIC, but only after 80 miles to the track, 5 passes and then driving 5 miles away from the track.

I gained NOTHING in the 1/4 mile with the TRIC, so maybe this has something to do with it?

I also asked some questions in the New Product list about the new filter. I think I am the last person to respond, so can you go read that and respond too?

Thank you.
 
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Discussion Starter #10
Lean Bank

You must have another problem. Take the TRIC off and put it back to stock. See if the problem goes away or you still have problems. Call me.

Can't explain your performance before and after at the track. Maybe ask some of the guys shaving .2 to .3 off what they are doing.

We have guys that have run 12.0s @ 119.7 with the TRIC. 11.87 @ 118 with the T-1. Recently and on this forum.

I have seen guys run 13s with Z06s, but that doesn't mean that the car isn't capable of low 12s with the right driver.

The idle learn is simple. Idle for 5 minutes in neutral. Shut the car off for at least 30 seconds. Water temp must be 176 minimum before you start the procedure.


Jim
 

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Must be another problem, huh? Well I guess I can take the TRIC off and see. Not looking foward to that, but if that is what I have to do, then I will.

As for driving the car right. My very first run bone stock in the '02 Z06 was a 12.8 @ 111mph. Hows a 12.60 @ 114.8mph with 2.08 short time stock (err, has a Ripper in it) for my best stock time? Then with the TRIC I ran 12.47 @ 113.5mph with a 1.99 short time. Like I said before I credit the improvement in the ET on the improvement in the 60 ft. I am not bashing your product or your company at all. Just trying to figure out why I slowed down and didn't gain anything. I'm sure it will all work out in the end.

I've reset the codes that were on the car, but have not had a chance to check the filter and make sure it is or isn't pushed on too far. I will see if I set another lean bank code or not. If I do, then the TRIC will come off and the stock intake goes back on. If it happens again, then off to the dealership. If it doesn't, then what do I do? I want to put the TRIC on the car...

I'm off to pull some seat springs out, do the idle relearn and check the filter. Then some late night test driving :)
 
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Discussion Starter #12
Let us know if that helps

When I suggested other problems, don't take it wrong. Something is leaking after the MAF to cause a lean bank code.

We have over 2000 TRICs out there and they don't code. When they do, it is usually something else causing the problem. The 2002 is very easy to code with the MAF screen out. This may have been the first TRIC to do it.

I will always work with my customers to resolve issues. 12.40s is nothing to sneeze at, but based on the mph, I think something else is wrong. Let's work to find out what.

Jim :)

PS: Our new filter for the T1 may help.

BTW. Who's MAF are you using?
 

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I didn't take any offence to what you said.

Hmm, I rechecked to make sure everything was nice and tight and couldn't hear/feel any leaks after the MAF.

Wow, 2000 TRIC's out there? That is a very respectable number.

Yeah, 12.40's ain't nothing to sneeze at, but like I said, I think that was obtainable with the car stock. I think the problem that I am having (whether caused by or related to the TRIC) held me back. I'm sure something else is wrong though. But funny that I lost MPH with the extra HP. (Assuming I gained any extra HP.)

As for who's MAF I am using... I'm using the stock GM '02 Z06 MAF of course :)

Like I said, I'm off to work in the garage. Nothing like working in the garage at 2:00am :)
 
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Discussion Starter #14
We can replace the TRIC with the T1 elbow

This will solve the problem completely. We do not recommend the TRIC for the 2002 Z06 due to the MAF change. If the 2001 MAF is used, all is well. Most Z06 guys are unwilling to use the screened MAF with their new 02, and I can't blame them.

The T-1 was designed specifically to compete head to head with the TRIC and with an [email protected] pass, it does just that.

So far it has the best e.t. but the TRIC still gets the speed win (119.7)

We'll exhange it free of charge and pay the shipping back to you.

We will include the new T-1 filter as well.

Thanks


Jim:cheers:
 

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Time Slips

Jim did you get the time slips for this pass posted or did I miss them?

Thanks
Sean:cheers:
 

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Re: I think you posted them.

Halltech said:
Don't have them handy.
Jim I was talking about the 11.87 at 119 pass your other customer did, I was wondering if you had posted the time slips for that pass.

Thanks
 

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Jim, thank you for the option to return the TRIC for the T1 elbow. I'd rather have the TRIC, but if the problems don't sort themselves out, then I will have to take you up on that offer. I'd prefer the TRIC since I already cut a hole in my radiator shroud (not fun when you can't find one of those hole cutters you used to provide and have to remove the shroud...) and I get into lots of, um, exciting contests on the freeway and would rather have the bottom breather helping out.

I reset the codes and put about 30 miles on the car. No more codes. I also checked to see how far the filter was on the TRIC. I placed a piece of tape at the top of the filter on the TRIC and then removed the filter. Measured how far the tape was up from the edge of the TRIC and it was just over 1". I then measured into the filter to the edge where the TRIC should stop and it was just under 3/4" of an inch. So it looks like I had the filter pushed on too far.

Included instructions might have made this easier. Not knowing that there was an install video online didn't make it any easier for me. After I did the install I watched your video. It is only 4 minutes 30 seconds long and cuts off before it shows the filter. You are saying, "Here is the hole, and here is where it passes through the shround. Now, under the car..." Then no more info.

Why would the '01 screened MAF help me any? I did notice the SLIGHTEST bit of surging in some lower gears when crusing, but not enough to bother me.
 
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Discussion Starter #19
Z06 2002 Screened MAF

Yes. We are using the 2001 Screened MAF on our 2002 with the TRIC and the 2002 'Screenless' MAF with the T1. Horsepower did not come down on the dyno. So much for popping the screen out.

The screen is a laminar airflow screen, which on the 1997-2000 MAFs, which were much smaller, was not necessary. We never had problems with surging at coasting speeds on those model years with the TRIC. In fact, our MAF ends, used with the stock center sensor, provided an additional 6 to 7 HP over the stock unit, in additional to the TRIC itself. Total gain was 26 RWHP on the chassis dyno. Stock 298 RWHP-TRIC only 324 RWHP. We added the LS6 manifold and our Lucas Racing Injectors, ported TB and TBCB kit, and the result was 337.7 RWHP/345.1 TW Torque. The torque monster 2000, actually made more torque than our 2002 did stock!

Anyway, the T1 will only take the backseat to the bottom breathing TRIC at the track, where you need the cooler air sooner. By the time the T1 'sees' the cooler air at the IAT, the race is over. The TRIC gets it all the time, plus a dose of 'volumized' air. It is NOT Ram Air, since there are plenty of places for the airflow to go other than the intake.

Jim Hall
 
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Lean Code

should only occur once, and that's if the idle learn is not done immediately upon your first start up.

Let the car idle until the water temp reaches 176-degrees. Then set your timer on the DIC (Under TRIP) for 5 minutes, once you have idled at 176+ for 5 minutes, shut off the key, and let the car set for 30 seconds. Idle Learn Procedure is done.

Remember, anytime you disconnect or lose power to the PCM, this must be done again to set the initial throttle plate postition.

Disconnecting the battery to install the intake system is not necessary, but the New Air, requires a 'Idle Learn Procedure' since the a/f ratio for cell 18 (AC) and 19 (AC-off) cannot reset itself stoichiometrically without this learn session. All other fuel cells reset automatically with just a few miles of driving. WOT is a factory preset enriched fuel cell which cannot be altered except by programming.

This is why programmers work on fuel cell 22 ONLY. They cannot change the other cells, since the O2 sensors will automatically reset them back to 14.6:1, no matter what you do.

One footnote. The automatic 14.6:1 ratio for cells 1-17, is why increased airflow makes so much power on the dyno. If you add 10% more airflow to the engine, the computer adds 10% more fuel to each trim 1-17. That automatically increases power 10% with all the fuel being burned at the stoichiometric condition.

WOT, however, can change to a degree, but the method for the PCM to add fuel is rudimentary at best, and cell 22 (WOT) takes its cue from the last cell you were in just before entering WOT. If the computer was perfect, it would know that you have added 10% more fuel in the stoichiometric cells, but it looks at the cell you are in before you floor it. It may or may not be 10% in that cell, due to many conditions. This results in an overly lean WOT, which is ok until you get spark knock, which results in timing retard, negating any gain from the New Air.

DYNO TIPS:

Interestingly, if you see you dyno numbers vary from pull to pull, try using the AutoTap program on the dyno. You can make sure you enter WOT from a fuel cell that is close to zero LT Fuel Trim. That gives WOT the best chance of around 12.6:1 a/f ratio.

When the dyno pull is more or less than 12.6:1, you dyno numbers will vary. The same is true of oil temp, and water temp, which the dyno cannot correct for.
 
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