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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 2003 Z06 was bone stock until last weeek, I installed the Vararam and drove it over 100 miles already and I smell gas ever since the install especially on full throddles..

I had the car dynoed on Sunday and I believe Its running Really Rich, But I need your help to be sure...

at 2500 rpm= 13/1

at 3500 rpm= 12/1

at 4500 rpm= 11.3/1

at 5000 rpm= 11.1/1

at 5500 rpm= 11/1

at 6000 rpm= 11.1/1

at 6500 rpm= 10.8/1

any help would be appreciated :yeadog:
 

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You are running rich, but I suspect that smelling fuel would be mostly on the dyno. You can tune this now (gain some HP/TQ), but if you are going to add headers, you will need to do this again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Backlash said:
You are running rich, but I suspect that smelling fuel would be mostly on the dyno. You can tune this now (gain some HP/TQ), but if you are going to add headers, you will need to do this again.

I smell fuel on WOT everytime, so its not going to adjust itself be then because of the Vararam?

If I wanted to tune it now, couldnt I just get one of those Handhelp tuners, so then I can retune again when Its time for headers?

and How rich am I running? whats the number, mine was pretty much a steady curve downwards to rich!

thanx , LUis
 

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With the Vararam or any other aftermarket intake it will change the amount of air being sucked into the engine. The MAF is currently calibrated for the stock airbox and it will see the extra air and add fuel at WOT.

If you have a program like HPTuner, scan the LTFT's. More then likely your LTFT are 15+ and stock they are +-3-5. You will need to re-calibrate your MAF and PE table on the dyno.

With the Vararam I have seen a .5-.7 A/F difference from the dyno and the street. A safe tune of 12.8 should be good for you.

I would hold off on the dyno tune unless you own HPTuners or LS1Edit until you do headers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Watch22, so is HpTuners a handheld programmer?

could I get one of those and re-program now and then with headers re-program it again?


thanx . Luis
 

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Installed mine on a literally bone stock and had no issues.

Any codes?

Does the Vararam have the K&N filter or that flimsy foam thing?

Check for leaks and that all is tight (especially where the top filter housing fits on top of the filter)? Make sure the rubber hold downs hold the lid down in a level fashion. I found that the Vararam system seemed to push the power duct up high until I pushed down and then slid the air bridge onto the throttle body. A buddy had experienced the same seating issue. His logo is imprinted in the hold liner.

Were you "gentle" with the MAF? May want to check the connector and seating.

Did you try to disconnect the battery? I did another mod and got strange codes every 20 minutes. Then did the battery "reset" and that cured the ghosts.

Never smelled gas yet -- even with headers and aggressive driving.
 

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I have installed vararam LG long tube headers high flow cats x pipe and stingers 4:10's and HP tuning it's done with a program and a labtop i had some one do it.cause there so much u can do. find a good tuner
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
reproman said:
Installed mine on a literally bone stock and had no issues.

Any codes?

Does the Vararam have the K&N filter or that flimsy foam thing?

Check for leaks and that all is tight (especially where the top filter housing fits on top of the filter)? Make sure the rubber hold downs hold the lid down in a level fashion. I found that the Vararam system seemed to push the power duct up high until I pushed down and then slid the air bridge onto the throttle body. A buddy had experienced the same seating issue. His logo is imprinted in the hold liner.

Were you "gentle" with the MAF? May want to check the connector and seating.

Did you try to disconnect the battery? I did another mod and got strange codes every 20 minutes. Then did the battery "reset" and that cured the ghosts.

Never smelled gas yet -- even with headers and aggressive driving.

There no codes, except when I reset the Fuse box, then I reset them and no more codes, I re-checked all the hoses and I WAs very carefull with the MAF meter...

Its not the K&N , but its not that Flimsy either :-? ,

:cheers:
 

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Don't know if I can help you more than what was said before, however your car is definitely running rich. I read somewhere that 14.1 to 1 is optimal air to fuel ratio. You want to error on the rich side to be safe because if your car runs lean you can burn a piston. As far as the handheld tuners, I don't know that much about them. I think they adjust air fuel ratios, but how accurately, I have no idea.
 

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Mike, 14.7 is stoichiometric (the ratio of fuel to air to combust the fuel and air equally). This is find for steady state driving, but if you goto WOT that lean, you're going to cause some serious damage.
 

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Thanks for the correction, mgarfias. I am no tuner just read that somewhere. I do know that you are right about going lean, you should error on the rich side to protect the motor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
mgarfias said:
Mike, 14.7 is stoichiometric (the ratio of fuel to air to combust the fuel and air equally). This is find for steady state driving, but if you goto WOT that lean, you're going to cause some serious damage.

so what should I be looking for?...

is my 10.9/1 really rich?
 

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12.8 is a good number.

Have it Tuned on a Dyno. It takes the guess work out of the equation, no to mention, gets you back to enjoying your ride sooner.
 

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My Vararam is almost in and I will finish it tonight. I contacted my tuner who told me the car will go rich and require a re-tune. After I run a couple of hundred miles I guess I will be paying him a visit. Will be interesting to see what the difference is once complete.
 
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